jccaclimber
Supporting Member
What size tank is this? Standard plastic trimmed Aqueon or something else? Picture?
Would a heat gun help me remove the rim on this tank?
Well no one said disassembling a tank would be easy. They're siliconed together to hold against massive water weight pushing against the panels
How big is this chip? Is it just a little bit? Is a crack that goes into the glass? Not sure it'd be worth the trouble of repairing it.
Personally I’d pretend it never happened, but I cut the tags off of mattresses too.
yup 1.5mm or 1/16th inch. However the problem with tiny gaps if you are injecting molding you really need a pneumatic caulking gun as you want to make sure you squeeze all the air out and fill every potential void. If I was rebuilding the whole thing and the panels were easy enough to maneuver I would lay down a bead of silicone along the entire seam and put the glass together and just do that with all the joints, then come back with an inner layer along the inside corners for the water tightness part, while silicone doesn't stick to old silicone, it'll stick to new silicone very well even stuff that has skinned over.
That said... go buy a cheapy 10 gallon tank from Petco when they have their $1/gallon sale, completely disassemble it, clean it, and reassemble it for practice
If you want spacers I can get 1/16 inch shower setting blocks for you
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The tape is if you want to do one application of silicone, and as mentioned above is really there to make it look nice afterwards, tape is not necessary if you're doing a 2 pass silicone job.If I understand your technique:
You tape everything like crazy around the seams.
You set up the right gap.
Then you squirt silicon in from one side, fill void, until it comes out the other side.
When done, you smooth it out, then pull of tape before it dries.
Questions:
How do you set up the gap? Spacers? If so, do they stay in?
Why do you need an expensive caulking gun. It seems like speed does not matter with that technique.