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UV Sterilizer - How to connect a pump with the sterilizer?

U need to tilt the GKM vertical under water so all the air bubbles out then mount it at an angle so if any air gets in again the angle will float it bubbles out:: Its a temporary unit basically like a disposable camera since you can’t change the bulb unless you buy the sealed bulb for 1/2 the price of the gkm. Ive had good results with the 24 watt on a 50g tank not sure if id use it on anything much larger..
 
PjFish said:
U need to tilt the GKM vertical under water so all the air bubbles out then mount it at an angle so if any air gets in again the angle will float it bubbles out:: Its a temporary unit basically like a disposable camera since you can’t change the bulb unless you buy the sealed bulb for 1/2 the price of the gkm. Ive had good results with the 24 watt on a 50g tank not sure if id use it on anything much larger..
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Yes, this is probably the issue. While it is a larger sump, the water level is not high enough to keep it vertical.
 
Alexander1312 said:
Quick feedback on this device I purchased from PETCO today:

In a nutshell - it is terrible. Cheap quality overall as expected. Mounting options are pretty bad and the lower part floats upwards despite all attempts to push any air out that might be trapped in it.

On the plus side - it works out of the box.

Will need to get a proper device now.

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I’d be careful of using this GKM in your tank. It’s been known to release Antimony into tanks if the impeller bursts.

 
I knew I shouldn’t have bought cheap cosmetics! Thanks for the link! The guy who started the thread also took the unit apart and found black gunk from the deteriorating plastic which may have had antimony also of which he did make a bunch of changes so not 100 sure . Seems like the black gunk is also common in other off brand UV models..I did hear somewhere that they may have changed the impeller shaft but after hundreds of uses and recommendations on the reef forums of this UV you would think there would be more confirmed correlations unless it was a limited number of effected models? Going to dig mine outa a box somewhere and dismantle.. I run Aqua Ultraviolet, Pentair or Lifeguards lately with zero issues..
 
Just replaced the bulb and sleeves on my Lifeguard Pro-Max unit today. One of the reasons why I choose this model is the beefiness and ability to replace the PVC liner. Now I see why. After two years the liner has gone from 1.75mm to 1.2mm and feels a whole lot more brittle. With cheap plastic units I'd imagine a whole lot more deterioration.

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CaseyP said:
Just replaced the bulb and sleeves on my Lifeguard Pro-Max unit today. One of the reasons why I choose this model is the beefiness and ability to replace the PVC liner. Now I see why. After two years the liner has gone from 1.75mm to 1.2mm and feels a whole lot more brittle. With cheap plastic units I'd imagine a whole lot more deterioration.
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What model and how much was all the replacement parts? I’m wondering how replacing so many parts compares to getting a new cheaper or maybe it’s a reduce waste advantage.
 
I use the 55w 3" body model. It's pretty big
Sleeve $5-15, change every 1 to maybe 3 years.
Bulb $70, change every year. Uses an amalgam which is supposedly better than regular fluorescent.

My stance is that cheap is fine for temporary use. I run mine 24/7 so opted for something better.
 
I second the Lifegard UVs. Mine has made a world of difference in my tank. They seem to be built to last, especially with all the replaceable wear parts as stated.
 
You could use a small submersible pump like a Sicce or Eheim and connect it with flexible tubing that fits both the pump outlet and the sterilizer inlet. Just make sure the flow rate matches the UV sterilizer’s recommended GPH. You might need some hose clamps to secure the connections and prevent leaks.
 
@Alexander1312 ok to partially hijack so as to not start a whole new thread?

I need to plumb in UV units soon. I will be running dual return pumps. I was going to install a tee off the combined return line to feed the uv and then connect the uv outlet back to the return in a different spot to accomplish the closed loop.

If I did this, could someone guide me in regard to the spacing between the tee for the UV feed (inlet) and the UV outlet?

I do not have a flow sensor, but my plan was to install an additional tee with a valve to be able to do a bucket test for flow rates. Thoughts on this plan?
 
ReyDeFarts said:
@Alexander1312 ok to partially hijack so as to not start a whole new thread?

I need to plumb in UV units soon. I will be running dual return pumps. I was going to install a tee off the combined return line to feed the uv and then connect the uv outlet back to the return in a different spot to accomplish the closed loop.

If I did this, could someone guide me in regard to the spacing between the tee for the UV feed (inlet) and the UV outlet?

I do not have a flow sensor, but my plan was to install an additional tee with a valve to be able to do a bucket test for flow rates. Thoughts on this plan?
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I recommend a dedicated pump
One that will be able to run the complete high to low range for maximum effect
 
Kensington Reefer said:
I recommend a dedicated pump
One that will be able to run the complete high to low range for maximum effect
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That's doable. I don't mind doing that. Do I have that outlet connect into the return line from the other pumps though? I won't be running a separate return line into the tank(s). I'm curious if I connect that to the combined return line if the other pumps would overpower the uv pump.
 
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