UV

[iani]

300-400 gph
You want pump in tank and return into tank

You can also place the pump in the area where the drain is from the display and return the water to the area where your main return pump is.

 

[spuri87]

300-400 gph
You want pump in tank and return into tank

Interesting.. so minimum flow AquaUV suggests for SaltWater tanks is 1,066 GPH for a 57W system.. doesn't this slow rate kill any of the beneficial stuff? I understand most of the beneficial bacteria is on the rocks and sand and not free flowing in the water, but just wondering why there is such a big difference between suggested and numbers you are using

Here is the link: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1287/3545/files/Aqua_UV_Sizing_Chart.pdf

 

[spuri87]

You can also place the pump in the area where the drain is from the display and return the water to the area where your main return pump is.

Thanks, I was planning to put it after the socks.. current layout is socks--> empty chamber--> Skimmer--> Return Pump.. Earlier was planning to use empty chamber for reefmat, now planning to use it for UV instead

 

[Coral reefer]

Interesting.. so minimum flow AquaUV suggests for SaltWater tanks is 1,066 GPH for a 57W system.. doesn't this slow rate kill any of the beneficial stuff? I understand most of the beneficial bacteria is on the rocks and sand and not free flowing in the water, but just wondering why there is such a big difference between suggested and numbers you are using

Here is the link: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1287/3545/files/Aqua_UV_Sizing_Chart.pdf

I’ve read it. Maybe you read it again. I answered what you asked. There is no antibiotics without killing good stuff, it’s how it works.
You said you want to manage ich. You gotta go slow if that’s your goal.

 

[PjFish]

My aqua uv is plumbed to the return pump and mounted above the sump so 100% gets uv exposure..I run a slow sump maybe 300 gph.
However for ich the best place for the uv intake is low mid depth in the display tank to capture the ich swimming stage. I do have an extra uv and pump ready to put in the DT if ich ever pops up thankfully last time I dealt with it was back in the 80’s & 90’s knock knock!!

 

[Kensington Reefer]

The bad pic is showing the white pvc pipe...
It’s the return from the uv’s to the section / chamber before the pumps chamber
ALL water flows from the left to the right

 

[Slingfox]

The bad pic is showing the white pvc pipe...
It’s the return from the uv’s to the section / chamber before the pumps chamber
ALL water flows from the left to the right

Here are my notes on UV flow rate. In parenthesis is math for a 25W unit. You can upscale or downscale based on UV unit wattage.

UV Flow Rate

• 25W UV unit example calcs
• Low flow for ich and parasites: 10-12 gph per watt (250-300 gph)
• High flow for dinos, bacteria, algae: 30-35 gph per watt (750-875 gph)

 

[spuri87]

Here are my notes on UV flow rate. In parenthesis is math for a 25W unit. You can upscale or downscale based on UV unit wattage.

UV Flow Rate

• 25W UV unit example calcs
• Low flow for ich and parasites: 10-12 gph per watt (250-300 gph)
• High flow for dinos, bacteria, algae: 30-35 gph per watt (750-875 gph)

thanks.. will low flow take care of ich/parasites as well as dinoes/bacteria/algae? intuitively feels like that should be the case, but want to confirm

 

[Coral reefer]

If by take care you mean kill or sterilize some of them then yes it will

 

[MichaelB]

I think it helps, doubt uv can totally wipe out or prevent ich or velvet. So don't consider it as something that will just solve your problems if thats your thinking. Helps but not a complete solution as in hook one up and you don't have to worry again.

 

[Slingfox]

If by take care you mean kill or sterilize some of them then yes it will

UV can theoretically help but I would not depend on it to get rid of ich or the various kinds uglies. I can’t tell any difference in my system when I have the UV on or off. I keep it on since I have the system installed. I have not replaced the bulb for over two years even though I have a spare bulb sitting in my garage. One area where UV definitely helps is when dealing with Dino’s.

I am in the camp of quarantining all incoming fish since it is very easy to do and somewhat entertaining (just need a cheap 10g tank from Petco with some other basic equipment). Alternatively I buy from Kenny at HighTide Aquatics since his quarantine protocol is better than what I do.

I will also eventually do quarantine of corals but don’t have the space or budget for that right now since I plan to upgrade my reef lighting next. For coral what I do now is keep them on a rack and dip them once a week for one month straight in KCl. Not ideal but I won’t have a better alternative until a have a second system up and running.

 

[spuri87]

thanks guys, yes I understand it wont fix the issue, I just want to manage ich and algae problems long term