Jestersix

Waterbox 80.4 frag build thread

nly04 said:
I notice the tank locate in a small area, also watch out for the door when you open it, the door handle will hit the front of the tank.
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I added this stopper on two hinge :) this should prevent from hitting at the door.
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A bit ironic that you put something that looks like a piece of human poop in your tank to clean the fish poop you can’t see from the sand.
 
Honestly couldn't tell you, "LifeRock" says it's infused with dormant bacterial spores, and makes claim it'll come to life, but the reality is nitrifying bacteria will come from perfectly dead rock that has been bleached clean, it's just one of those thing, so I'm not quite sure how those claims hold up. You never "need" "snake oil" products, most of them are just a combination of extra bacteria types to get a tank started with quicker diversity. If you don't want to buy it, then don't, but I'm not sure I could give you a "1 month" time frame or not, I've honestly never heard of this product until you mentioned it. Just get a cheap ammonia test kit and wait it out until it reads zero and call it a day.
 
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Prince Shah said:
I m using Life Rock so do i need to dose any snake oil or the bacteria on Life rock will cycle my tank in a month ?
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I've had really good results from using turbostart 900. Usually cycles ammonia in a day or two. I guess whether you use bottled bacteria depends on whether you are willing to wait a month or more or if you want more instantaneous gratification. Since it seems like you are still waiting to get the sump connected, so I'd probably wait and see what happens with the life rock and only purchase a bottle if you are having problems getting the tank to cycle.

did you add bottled ammonia or are you ghost feeding?
 
I would definitely recommend bacterial starters, whether they come in a bottle like Dr. Tim’s (what I use), rock from an established tank, or elsewhere. I don’t know enough about Life Rock to know if it serves this purpose adequately, sounds like they are promoting that it does but I would be skeptical.

It is true you don’t have to seed with good bacteria if you don’t mind waiting a couple extra months and then taking your chances to some extent, but why would you? The hobby has progressed in so many ways that are definite improvements, and this is one of them.
 
JVU said:
I would definitely recommend bacterial starters, whether they come in a bottle like Dr. Tim’s (what I use), rock from an established tank, or elsewhere. I don’t know enough about Life Rock to know if it serves this purpose adequately, sounds like they are promoting that it does but I would be skeptical.

It is true you don’t have to seed with good bacteria if you don’t mind waiting a couple extra months and then taking your chances to some extent, but why would you? The hobby has progressed in so many ways that are definite improvements, and this is one of them.
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I ordered Bio Spira will start to add it tomorrow.
 
I am planning to connect my 6 stage RO DI unit which as Automatic-Shut-Off Valve to the sump (by passing reservoir) . Each sensor is dual and has overflow protection. I am also planning to add mechnical float value in the end just in case of power outage (with one way valve).

Is there any other suggestion you guys recommend? I don't want leak in the house while I am gone for a month on my trip. I did not add any fish or coral as I want to let it cycle. I am planning to gost feed the tank for constant source of ammonia.


RO Di unit : https://www.ebay.com/itm/RD150-AQUA...I-WATER-FILTER-FILTRATION-SYSTEM/350490588532
Adjustable Float value : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SMG6NYH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Auto Top off : https://www.amazon.com/XP-Aqua-Ulti...+xp+aqua&qid=1569343438&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-3
 

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I would not suggest hooking up an RO/DI directly to a tank, like EVER. On one hand having the redundant protection is smart, but the other hand is that when and RO unit first starts making water the TDS is going to be higher than normal, so you'll burn through your DI resin super fast if all you're doing is minute changes to the water level with an ATO. Find an appropriate sized tank or something and store your water then ATO from that.
 
sfsuphysics said:
I would not suggest hooking up an RO/DI directly to a tank, like EVER. On one hand having the redundant protection is smart, but the other hand is that when and RO unit first starts making water the TDS is going to be higher than normal, so you'll burn through your DI resin super fast if all you're doing is minute changes to the water level with an ATO. Find an appropriate sized tank or something and store your water then ATO from that.
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In that case I need one more ATO sensor https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/s...iL2BPcmcl0Pge4WH0sWWPDpq5tz_466BoCnyYQAvD_BwE
 
Make sure that actually toggles off back to on. I seem to recall reading about one of those sensors like that that will shut the plug off but it requires a person to flip it back on.
 
Would this be any good for storing RO/DI water? I am planning to keep flat 26" will be at the base and 16" on top and width of 9". My gut tells me it will buldge but not sure if you guys have any suggestions.

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Flagg37 said:
It looks like there may be a little expansion but that reservoir is made to hold water. How flat do you need it to stay?
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I have 10 1/4" width my only problem is one side its the wall and other side is the aquarium stand. If it buldge and puts pressure on the stand I might risk breaking the stand.
 
To fully automate ATO, I use a 2-device system. I have a Tunze water controller 3555 to refill a 5 gallon bucket from my RODI when the water gets low, then a normal Tunze osmolator to draw from that bucket to ATO my tank. This is a way to avoid the issue of DI salt creep mentioned above and decrease the risk of a catastrophic fail-on scenario. It’s been working great.
 
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