Cali Kid Corals

What is this white stuff with hairy tip?

I noticed I have a lot of this white stuff with hairy tip. what are they? Good or bad and how tonget rid off them?
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Can't really see too early from the pics, but from your description its probably Q-tip sponges or pineapple sponges. I have the same thing. Seems to be going away now.
 
Can't really see too early from the pics, but from your description its probably Q-tip sponges or pineapple sponges. I have the same thing. Seems to be going away now.
Hard to tell from the pictures but I think they are pineapple sponges.

After google it this morning, Like Mike and Muhli said they are look like pineapple sponge. How to get rid of them without using chemical or crab? I had bad experience with crab so I will not have any crab in my DT.
 

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Cut down on feeding/nutrient dosing to reduce these sponges. From what I've seen, everyone goes through this bloom a few times in their system...
 
I notice I have a large amount of white bacteria stuff in the canister chamber of the Bio pellet reactor. I will take some picture later when I get home tonight. Im not sure this is the source of the problem.
 
Like nav and ender said. It's because of nutrient problems. I had a small bloom that recently started disappearing. Its super ugly to look at. I just think of it as a better way to know you have a nutrient problem rather than having any of the dreaded algae.
 
Is there a way to test nutrient? my water test result as:
Salinity: 1.025
Cal: 470
MAG: 1480
ALK: 8.0
PO4: 0.04
NO3: 0.08

At the moment, I run bio pellet, GFO and Carbon, Im thinking to shut down the Bio pellet reactor.
 
Is there a way to test nutrient? my water test result as:
Salinity: 1.025
Cal: 470
MAG: 1480
ALK: 8.0
PO4: 0.04
NO3: 0.08

At the moment, I run bio pellet, GFO and Carbon, Im thinking to shut down the Bio pellet reactor.

your numbers look good to the most part...I was always told not to run Bio-pellets with GFO as GFO reactor eliminates po4 and to run a bio-pellet reactor (carbon dosing) you need some amounts of po4 & no3 for the reaction to work and not stall out your bio-pellet reactor...

If you do cut out the bio-pellet reactor I would check your po4 & no3 every couple days to make sure they don't go up and out of control.
 
I start running my gfo for about a 10 days when I notice I have more algae then normal, it help to reduce the algae.
I notice a lot of people state that bio pellet remove more Nitrate than Phosphate with 15 part of Nitrate and 1 part of Phosphate or 15:1 ratio., it very true in my case. I do test every week since I swap my tank.
Cause Im trying to tune it to the sweat spot, my bio pellet tumbling very nice and slow, I also turn output at a slow state. Let me try to take a short video of my sump set up and upload tonight when I get home.
 
Yes my bio-pellets drop my no3 more than my po4 that is why I started dosing brightwell Phoshat-E at mix with RODI water 50/50 mix to get me in the Redfield ratio 16:1

I wouldn't stop the bio-pellet reactor if it was me... But each system is different

Jon
 
Yes my bio-pellets drop my no3 more than my po4 that is why I started dosing brightwell Phoshat-E at mix with RODI water 50/50 mix to get me in the Redfield ratio 16:1

I wouldn't stop the bio-pellet reactor if it was me... But each system is different

Jon
You mean you adding phosphate in your system? I have too much phosphate that I try to remove it.
 
You mean you adding phosphate in your system? I have too much phosphate that I try to remove it.

No not adding Phosphat-E removes phosphates and I mix it 50/50 with RO/DI Water so I can run it threw a dosing pump....but on another note I do have bottles of nitrogen & phosphorus to dose if my system or bio-pellet reactor was to stall out and read zero in po4 or no3...but that is a whole different conversation...lol
 
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