Are you keeping one anemone for the sake of clownfish? Maybe time to move them on to euphyllia? The other thing that's bad about anemones moving is it moves the clownfish "territory" which can upset other fish.Decided to pull 2 of my 3 BTA anemones out. They had stayed put for months, but started walking around quite a bit a couple of weeks ago. I had given them quite a bit of rom away from my SPS, but after stinging my Birdsnest, it was time to go. I wonder now...I had stopped feeding them Silversides...and may be their light requirements changed, causing them to walk?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yeah, for the most part, it is for the clownfishs' sake. I do have a couple of large Euphyllia colonies but, IME, once I got the clownfish to be hosted by a frogspawn, on one occasion, they destroyed it...and the other occasion was fine. So, batting .500 there. I do also like the motion of the RBTA..but as my corals grow out, this will become more difficult. I started feeding the one that is left again to see if he will stay put.Are you keeping one anemone for the sake of clownfish? Maybe time to move them on to euphyllia? The other thing that's bad about anemones moving is it moves the clownfish "territory" which can upset other fish.
You might check iron levels if your chaeto is stalling or paling?
Makes complete sense. I guess the bacteria that chew up nitrates and phosphates do it ad different ratios?Both chaeto and the bacteria stimulated by NOPOX require both nitrate and phosphate to grow. So when your PO4 is zero, either approach will stall. That’s why some people dose whichever of the 2 is too low if the other is too high.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
I use the ULR and my last reading was at 3 ppb phosphorous. So ~0.01ppm PO4. Yes on the high nitrates. Maybe I shouldn't have mucked with them....just kept thinking that I could get better Acro growth if they were lower.I have the opposite problem, in that my po4 is higher than my NO3. To get a po4 reading of zero what test kit are you using? The most reliable it seems is the Hanna checker. However, BRS tested the high resolution one and it wouldn't record a reading less than .08. I use the ULR PO4 Hanna checker and have had no problem which the lower readings. If in fact you are at a po4 of zero than the algae will have a had time growing and you will need to supplement as stated above. For me I am supplementing NO3, but it is hard to figure out how much is too much. By the way what I have been reading on reef2reef higher NO3 is not a big problem. Some of the best aquariums I have seen on the sight have NO3 above 20. One being Sanjay's aquarium. Also Rich Ross has very high po4 and no3.
Dick Flanagan
I just tested iron recently and despite frequent largish water changes it was totally depleted. I think macroalgae and chaeto are known to use a lot of it, and I have a lot of chaeto.I didn't think about iron. Do you or other reefers test and dose for iron?
I have the Red Sea colors, but have never used them. Maybe I should give it a try?I've been blindly dosing iron (and the other three parts of the Red Sea coral colors) based off of my ca uptake. I've had good results so I'm continuing.