High Tide Aquatics

AWC reliability

richiev

Supporting Member
I've been thinking though how to create an Auto Water Change device. I have all the parts I'd need, but I can't figure out how to really truly make one that's fault proof. Making one that works in good cases (happy path) is fairly straightforward, but making one that would work well when something goes wrong (fault tolerant) seems very complicated.

The easiest would be a one pump with a double peristaltic head. One pumphead fill into the pump section of a sump, one drain from the drain line area of the sump. There'd be some mixing, but if done quickly should be ok I'd think. However, there's a bunch of things that can go wrong:
  • Pumps pull different amounts
  • One pumphead breaks, such as the piping inside breaks or clogs
  • The fill reservoir of fresh saltwater goes empty
  • The reservoir being dumped into fills
Those all could either lead to adding too much and leading to an increase of salinity, or not filling enough and quickly dropping salinity, or storage areas getting minor floods.

The biggest fundamental thing is there'd be no way to calibrate the two pumpheads against each other, so it seems doomed to ever work right.

Making it more complicated would be two separate pumps. That allows calibration, but now adds that one pump could fail and again things will get out of calibration. Effectively anything oriented around two pumps being well calibrated against each other will have all those issues.

A very different approach would be disable return and use float valves. This would turn off your return, then have your drainage line near that water level, a couple gallons worth below. It would drain until there's no more water it could pull, then fill, then turn the return back on. There'd be a float valve to measure when the level is back to the original, and stop. This effectively gets rid of the calibration issues, but requires that stuff never to get moved, and doesn't help with the issues like the fill reservoir draining or pumps breaking and adds the risk of the return not getting turned on and really causing issues.

My current idea is ultrasonic level measurement of the fill and drain reservoir. Use two 5-gallon buckets, one for fill, one for drain. Put a lid on both with an ultrasonic distance measurer. Calibrate by dumping 1 gallon of water in each bucket at a time so it'd know 1 gallon vs 2 vs ... Then ensure the buckets aren't empty, nor overfilled, and for every bit of water you add, remove the same. It could also test itself at the beginning to make sure both pumps work, and simultaneously fill and drain. The risk would be the sensors go out of calibration, which could be helped by doing double sensors in each.

However, all this seems very complicated and still a lot of ways it could go wrong and lead to your tank getting salinity swings. It seems safer to use it to automate the act of a manual water change, but without you having to carry buckets around.

What is people's experience with AWC devices? Any recommendations of one's that seem very safe? I don't want to steal a company's design and rebuild, but I'm struggling to see how any of these could really be safe without getting very very complicated.
 
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I have been using AWC for some time with no issues. I think you are overthinking this, and should instead go for a continuous change.

Set both pumps to a continuous rate (I do 6-12ml/min) and then open a beer.

Running the lines to/from the tank is the tricky part.

If you are worried about wasted water, it’s a tiny percentage - especially if you place the waste line just upstream of the fresh line in the sump. There’s an article with the math here - https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php


The tiny bit of water saved by doing it in large automated singular changes is simply not worth the huge increase in risk and complexity.
 
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Buy a masterflex peristaltic pump that takes two tubes in a single head. Connect the tubes such that one is pulling and the other is pushing. As long as there are no clogs, they should push or pull at the same rate as long as tubes are the same length (or make sure tubes are primed first).

It's not a cheap solution, but will accomplish what you want.

I have a Masterflex 7525-40 that would accomplish this. Got it off eBay for a really good deal, but most are $500+. Also, any masterflex model that supports easy-load II will have a single head multi-channel support.

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Thanks all. I think the plumbing and pumping part I can do pretty straightforwardly. I have the pumps and worst case a double peristaltic pump head I can buy cheap online. I still though don't see how these are safe over time, though I'm sure they're safe in normal conditions.

Let's assume a dual head where the tubing is all the same and equally pumping. Let's also ignore a tube splitting over time from wear (though I've had this multiple times on continuous run kalk pump heads). Isn't it just going to take the saltwater reservoir running dry and suddenly you set your tank up to have your ATO dump a bunch of RODI into your tank?

Eg you pump a gallon out and it doesn't pump a gallon in. When the ATO eventually kicks in it'll add a gallon of freshwater.

My fear is it seems like something that works fine, but then catastrophically fails when it eventually does. Unless you fully integrate it to control the ATO too. Eg don't let the ATO go back on until the saltwater fill has caused the sensor to flip. Send a bazillion alarms if it can't get that to happen.

That the solution and what the apex and other controller based solutions do?
 
I have been using AWC for some time with no issues. I think you are overthinking this, and should instead go for a continuous change.

Set both pumps to a continuous rate (I do 6-12ml/min) and then open a beer.

Running the lines to/from the tank is the tricky part.

If you are worried about wasted water, it’s a tiny percentage - especially if you place the waste line just upstream of the fresh line in the sump. There’s an article with the math here - https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php


The tiny bit of water saved by doing it in large automated singular changes is simply not worth the huge increase in risk and complexity.
Also thanks for that link. I was looking for that earlier and couldn't find it. That's reliable enough data that I believe the math on continuous. My concern is just the execution of it.
 
Thanks all. I think the plumbing and pumping part I can do pretty straightforwardly. I have the pumps and worst case a double peristaltic pump head I can buy cheap online. I still though don't see how these are safe over time, though I'm sure they're safe in normal conditions.

Let's assume a dual head where the tubing is all the same and equally pumping. Let's also ignore a tube splitting over time from wear (though I've had this multiple times on continuous run kalk pump heads). Isn't it just going to take the saltwater reservoir running dry and suddenly you set your tank up to have your ATO dump a bunch of RODI into your tank?

Eg you pump a gallon out and it doesn't pump a gallon in. When the ATO eventually kicks in it'll add a gallon of freshwater.

My fear is it seems like something that works fine, but then catastrophically fails when it eventually does. Unless you fully integrate it to control the ATO too. Eg don't let the ATO go back on until the saltwater fill has caused the sensor to flip. Send a bazillion alarms if it can't get that to happen.

That the solution and what the apex and other controller based solutions do?
Googling, it appears that integration with the ATO is what people do. This is a problem given my usage of the red sea ATO on my peninsula...

I'd need to somehow disable that (maybe toggle off the power), run, toggle back on. Maybe that's not too hard actually. I can control the pumps, and it'll be connected to home assistant, which also can control the power outlets. Worst case if I lose wifi access in the middle of the routine, I wouldn't turn back on the ATO and would manually fix it
 
If you go the way of DOS -
You can also get a FMM with 2.sensors -
so that if one sensor is triggered (ie the water going out is functional but the incoming water side is non functional) -the programming stops both of them and alerts you regardless of the ato used.

I have a QD DOS. Works pretty well.
 
Also thanks for that link. I was looking for that earlier and couldn't find it. That's reliable enough data that I believe the math on continuous. My concern is just the execution of it.

It's really very simple. I don't have any logic w/ the ATO - most of my ATO is accomplished via kalk dosing anyway.

Keep in mind - when you are trickling a continuous AWC your salinity would change VERY slowly if the SW reservoir runs dry. It'll take many days for your salinity to even move much in a larger tank. My SW reservoir lasts nearly a month and I just set a reminder in my phone. It's really a non-issue unless you tend to completely ignore your tank for many weeks at a time. I do tend to check salinity more often and calibrate my AWC pumps fairly often (less and less though, the Sole is basically perfectly dead-on every time).

In fact AWC is really handy - if your salinity drifts for whatever reason it'll happen slowly - and you can drift it slowly back the correct direction by simply tweaking your in/our ratio for a awhile. My salinity was a little high recently so I just ran the waste line at 12ml/min and the fresh line at 8ml/min for a couple of weeks to correct it. No-brainer.
 
It's really very simple. I don't have any logic w/ the ATO - most of my ATO is accomplished via kalk dosing anyway.

Keep in mind - when you are trickling a continuous AWC your salinity would change VERY slowly if the SW reservoir runs dry. It'll take many days for your salinity to even move much in a larger tank. My SW reservoir lasts nearly a month and I just set a reminder in my phone. It's really a non-issue unless you tend to completely ignore your tank for many weeks at a time. I do tend to check salinity more often and calibrate my AWC pumps fairly often (less and less though, the Sole is basically perfectly dead-on every time).

In fact AWC is really handy - if your salinity drifts for whatever reason it'll happen slowly - and you can drift it slowly back the correct direction by simply tweaking your in/our ratio for a awhile. My salinity was a little high recently so I just ran the waste line at 12ml/min and the fresh line at 8ml/min for a couple of weeks to correct it. No-brainer.
Those are good points. My main concern is an automation that must have manual intervention periodically setup fails my is something I can reliably trust and debug when I go out of town for a week bar. Part of the value I'd be trying to get out of AWC is having a backup for all my dosing and what not if I am not home.

Reasonable points though, and certainly the approach of constant simultaneous and slow water changes is the simplest. I feel if I had an automated alk monitor, or even an automated salinity monitor, on the tank I'd be a lot less concerned about that idea. Salinity for obvious reasons, and alk because I'd see alk drop if salinity was. Outside of temp and ATO stats, the only active monitor I have right now is pH. That I could also see some correlation (eg if overnight pH is really tanking, that likely means Alk is tanking, which means ...).

I'm also very lazy and do not like testing anything, so adding salinity testing requirement makes me nervous.

Maybe at least as a starter I can just do an automated manual water change (trigger it manually, check it manually) and I can always automate more from there. It'd take me 10 minutes to set that up.
 
Those are good points. My main concern is an automation that must have manual intervention periodically setup fails my is something I can reliably trust and debug when I go out of town for a week bar. Part of the value I'd be trying to get out of AWC is having a backup for all my dosing and what not if I am not home.

Reasonable points though, and certainly the approach of constant simultaneous and slow water changes is the simplest. I feel if I had an automated alk monitor, or even an automated salinity monitor, on the tank I'd be a lot less concerned about that idea. Salinity for obvious reasons, and alk because I'd see alk drop if salinity was. Outside of temp and ATO stats, the only active monitor I have right now is pH. That I could also see some correlation (eg if overnight pH is really tanking, that likely means Alk is tanking, which means ...).

I'm also very lazy and do not like testing anything, so adding salinity testing requirement makes me nervous.

Maybe at least as a starter I can just do an automated manual water change (trigger it manually, check it manually) and I can always automate more from there. It'd take me 10 minutes to set that up.
Kind of a sidetrack, but auto Mg testing is more useful to detect changes in salinity than Alk testing. Alk can vary hour by hour and is affected by many things besides salinity. Whereas Mg is quite steady and is almost entirely dependent on salinity, short of some other catastrophe, which of course would also be good to know about.
 
Those are good points. My main concern is an automation that must have manual intervention periodically setup fails my is something I can reliably trust and debug when I go out of town for a week bar.

I mean this is true of basically ALL automation though, right? I think in the grand scheme of automation, a continuous trickle AWC is about as low-touch as you can get, and the whole reason to do it. It's WAY less work than any other form of water change, super low risk, and I don't really have to lift a finger except to 1. refill the SW reservoir and 2. check salinity as often as I'm comfortable (or uncomfortable) with.

And checking salinity is fast, easy, and generally not a bad idea anyway. And by "often" I mean a couple times per month.
 
If you can find one of these used (they have been out of business for 3 years) it works very well. It is what I am using for an auto water change. https://reefs.com/product-review-genesis-reef-systems-renew-part-1/
oh that's awesome! That's almost exactly what I was thinking of.

I mean this is true of basically ALL automation though, right? I think in the grand scheme of automation, a continuous trickle AWC is about as low-touch as you can get, and the whole reason to do it. It's WAY less work than any other form of water change, super low risk, and I don't really have to lift a finger except to 1. refill the SW reservoir and 2. check salinity as often as I'm comfortable (or uncomfortable) with.

And checking salinity is fast, easy, and generally not a bad idea anyway. And by "often" I mean a couple times per month.
All require some intervention, but the likely failure characteristics of automation can be really different. If my doser's reservoir runs out of Alk, or the peristaltic line fails, the failure will be a lack of adding Alk and a slow decline. If my ATO fails on, my tank gets super hosed, which is why an ATO really needs a secondary sensor. If my ATO fails off, that is a slow burn and resolvable with manual top offs. If a Trident fails my numbers look janky, but I get alerted and again would see a trend most likely.

If an AWC fails in not filling, it could cause a cascading set of other failures. So I view that as a higher risk than the others. Particularly if the ATO and AWC aren't connected to each other in some way. They can fail independent, and cause cascading failures to each other, so they're part of the same failure domain.

The setup where you measure the water getting added and removed I think removes a lot of the failure cases. Especially if you continuously monitor both as its doing it. Similar to how there is a benefit to using smaller dosing reservoirs or smaller ATO reservoirs, in that it reduces the severity of a failure.
 
I’ve been using the Neptune Systems DOS for a few months now and it’s been rock‑solid. It uses peristaltic pumps with built‑in low‑level sensors, so I haven’t had any weird salinity swings. I also added simple float switches as a backup-if a pump clogs or overfills, the float cuts the power and stops everything.
 
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