Recent content by IOnceWasLegend

If the spots are too numerous to count, it's likely velvet rather than ich. As pointed out above, if the fish are still eating, then there's hope. Medicated food can help. My suggestion, short of setting up a hospital tank and letting everything run fallow for 76 days/QTing the fish in a...

So, bit of good news for the tank. We've waffled for a while, but made the decision to get a porcupine puffer (which we've debated and wanted since putting the tank together). Kenny (@under_water_ninja) was kind enough to find a small one (as requested) for us...and I'm kind of melting at how...

Pic 1: not sure; either diatoms or crysophytes Pic 2: Dino; probably ostreopsis based on what I can see Pic 3 & 4: Amphipods Pic 5: generic tank gunk (can't tell from that picture)

Appreciate it! I may take you up on that the next time I'm in the bay.

Nothing definitive so far; but, given it's "slow necrosis of everything", at least it hasn't gotten worse that I can tell. I'll have Aquabiomics results from the post-treatment sample I took in about two weeks. I've been dosing PNS bacteria and Microbacter 7 to re-seed, and I'm planning on...

Because there was nothing in there at the time except algae

I've still got another ~3-4 weeks until I get post-Oxolinic acid treatment results back. Once I get that, I'll decide whether or not to treat the garage tank.

Ich and velvet tomonts don't attach to coral flesh, but they do attach to stony coral skeletons, snail shells, rubble, etc. Source (at least for ich) with citations: https://humble.fish/community/threads/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.487/

You're not wrong; and this is a point I made sure to discuss at length in my article series on quarantining: https://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/article-series-the-how-why-and-whether-i-should-of-quarantine.35831/

I do. Full QT of all invertebrates (except for urchins, which tomonts can't encyst on) and coral. The only exceptions are invertebrates purchased from Inverted Reef, or coral purchased from @Arvin R at Kay's Coral Cove.

Because I sent some pictures to Cos earlier - here's the Achilles hybrid in question. Going on two years in the tank now, and still fat, happy, and healthy. (Note: those white specks are dust/dried saltwater on the glass that accumulated before my weekly cleaning)

Haven't used it personally, but there's a Facebook group, as well as a few reviews from users on Humblefish. The one that comes to mind is from Jessican: https://humble.fish/community/threads/reef-kinetics-reefbot-lab.18224/ I was looking into it last year when debating moving on from my...

All the fish I've purchased from Kenny have been happy, healthy, and long lived. I'd especially like to highlight two main things: 1. I got a mandarin dragonet pair and a copperband butterfly from him when I was stocking my 200g. Not only did he ensure they ate frozen and made it through QT...

Three ways you can go about it: 1. Water change 2. Running GFO (use a calculator and monitor, since this can bottom out phosphates) 3. Dosing lanthanum chloride (e.g. Brightwell Phosphate-E). Quick, effective, but be VERY careful with it given it can create particulate matter that can...

Echinoderms are safe, but Humblefish recommends sea slugs have a full 45 day QT at 80.6 F in a fishless system to be safe because there's no definitive evidence for ich/velvet tomont adherence: https://humble.fish/community/threads/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.487 In theory, you're...