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I didn't check the math, but yes, if you're willing to do some then you can get a good reading. You don't even need to fix the zero offset if you're going to do that. That's what I did with a car I used to drive where the rear diff had been changed (different ratio as well), but the vehicle...

Every couple years I get it in my mind to do a really good cleaning on my skimmer, and it usually needs a bit of break in when I return it to the system. I leave the cup on, but I open the drain in the bottom of the cup so that everything just flows through and drains back into the tank. So...

Unsure on if it's of any concern, but electrical leaks are one cause of pH probe issues, so I'm not hugely surprised that an exposed probe caused issues with a different nearby probe.

This came up in another thread, so I figured I would write this up. What we want when taking measurements is something that is both sufficiently accurate and sufficiently precise for our needs. I'm not going to go into accuracy vs. precision right now, but let's assume that our refractometers...

Well, better than washing just before every fire. The best way to make it rain where I’m from is to wash your car.

Could be just after.

I don’t know what the costs are, but I suspect part of it is a matter of maintenance, and partly a matter of established tech. Say the flow rate is 400 gph. That’s somewhere around 100x what our systems produce, and also run continuously or at least 24/5 to 24/6. That’s a lot of membranes and...

Reminds me of the ones behind the anodize line at a former employer. The process for changing the resin in those is a bit trickier than unscrewing the bottom, but at least doing so is extremely infrequent. Instead of RO they just ran 400 TDS tap straight into DI resin. I forget the flow rate...

I can't speak to rate it reabsorbs into the water, but you could probably do some calculations based on the pH change.

Per someone who wrote to Hanna on R2R the phosphorus ULR checker is slightly more accurate at low range than the phosphate ULR. This surprised me a bit as I thought the phosphate ULR was just doing the math (and had a longer time-out time), but I have no reason not to believe it.

I’ve found phosphate gets sucked up extremely quickly for a little while when you first start dosing it. I accidentally did a 10x dose at one point and it was gone within a couple days. Once I’d been dosing for a bit this stopped being the case.

Measure your potassium sometime. Every tank is different, but I've found that severely depleted a few times on tanks with and without water changes that use a more generic 2-part (such as my own).

Might have the restrictor orifice built in as well. Mainly so you don't need to buy the higher priced Aquatic Life cartridges, not so much for something specifically wrong with that unit. Assuming a decent TDS reading (buy a handheld TDS meter), I't still use it until the TDS creeps up to a...

1. If you get a NO solenoid you risk overheating when it is shut. If you get an NC solenoid you risk it overheating when open. Solenoids overheating and dying young has been a historical issue with planted CO2 setups, at least cheaper older ones. The issue is that NC solenoids in particular...

In the other thread I stated that meeting other hobbyists was the best thing I'd ever done to my reef, but honestly dosing KNO3 might actually be the best thing. I'd always had zero (on a Red Sea low range kit) nitrate, but must have been just barely below the edge. As my big tank matured I...

Get an auto shutoff valve with the float valve so you don’t just keep running waste water and exhaust the prefilters.

Hehe, not unless they are in series (and you don’t want that).

^As above. Ecosmart Live is famously flaky and inconsistent. I've found using USB works better, although sometimes I have to try it a couple times, reboot the browser once, and some other silliness. There's some sort of occasional conflict if you have a Reeflink connected to the account as...

I use surface tension to hold the head end of the zoa to my finger, then plop the base into the fresh superglue. Then your fingertip is almost the length of the zoa away from the glue.

Do your heaters run all day, or just at night? Lids and insulation are the number one way to cut electrical costs in cooler and cold areas IMO.