Kessil

65 gallon tank

If you really think water chemistry is the issue, I think escalating water changes is a good idea. Agree with the guys above.

Is it possible they are getting TOO much flow? I only have a few hammers in my tank but they are only happy in pretty low flow, and the amount of flow pretty much correlates inversely to their polyp extension.
 
derek_SR said:
If you really think water chemistry is the issue, I think escalating water changes is a good idea. Agree with the guys above.

Is it possible they are getting TOO much flow? I only have a few hammers in my tank but they are only happy in pretty low flow, and the amount of flow pretty much correlates inversely to their polyp extension.
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Thanks everyone for all if the feedback it's been helpful with making me consider more possibilites.

I haven't yet fully manipulated flow to all extremes. yet i started the hammers higher up with more flow than I put them down just above then crushed coral substrate with lower flow.

The mp40 I had on the tank since i started it. I started with 40% max output. Than 3 weeks ago I brought it down too 25% max output.

I originally only had the mp40 and s1 vortec return line, mounted on the right side of the tank both blowing right to left. The flow seemed enough to cause a slight back and forth motion of the coral.

2 weeks ago I was able to get a 2nd mp10 running and put it in my main tank across from the other mp10. That allowed me to take the hygger out and put it on the left side of this tank.

None of those changes: moving coral, lowering mp 40 output, or adding the hygger made any noticeable difference in the hammer's extension.

*I just lowerd the mp40 down to 10% to see if it makes a difference.

This is less flow than the mp10 and hygger had in my 32biocube where the hammers originally were. If you think I need go lower than 10% should I probably just try turning the mp40 off?

**I will probably have to buy 15 gallons of ro from Neptunes in order to try a 15 gallon water change. By the numbers that should be 20%. In truth it may even be closer to 30%. If factoring in the volume taken up by rock, substrate, sump biobmedia, and equipment inside the water.
 
MichaelB said:
*I just lowerd the mp40 down to 10% to see if it makes a difference.

This is less flow than the mp10 and hygger had in my 32biocube where the hammers originally were. If you think I need go lower than 10% should I probably just try turning the mp40 off?
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None of this means anything to anyone - only way to really interpret flow is by looking at it. Flow changes dramatically based on a million factors besides just the percentage the pump is running.

Share a video if you are looking for feedback on flow, but sounds like it’s probably not the problem if you’re getting gentle back and forth mention.
 
derek_SR said:
None of this means anything to anyone - only way to really interpret flow is by looking at it. Flow changes dramatically based on a million factors besides just the percentage the pump is running.

Share a video if you are looking for feedback on flow, but sounds like it’s probably not the problem if you’re getting gentle back and forth mention.
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Lol, thanks I didn't know the % translates to mean nothing. Though now I take your point since I started thinking about it. I will try to get a video later today.
 
MichaelB said:
Lol, thanks I didn't know the % translates to mean nothing. Though now I take your point since I started thinking about it. I will try to get a video later today.
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It’s not nothing, it matters. But so does the wave pattern, the placement of other pumps, their strength and pattern, the return flow, and not least of all the shape of the corals and rock work and how the water returns to the wave makers. All of these are major factors.

In my tank, it’s very easy to overdo flow for LPS and underdo flow for the SPS. I have learned why mixed reefs are considered difficult - flow and lighting both of course, but flow is the one that is so hard to get correct and seems to have the biggest impact on coral “happiness.” IME
 
Early morning lights on all tanks still on ramp up cycle so things are fully inflated yet.

Flow 65gallon tank
10% mp40

Flow 65gallon tank
25% mp40

Flow 32biocube main tank

@derek_SR

I can get vidoes later in the day as well when lights are brighter as well.

Oddly the hammers look slighty better right now in the 65 gallon tank lower light than when the higher par lighting comes on.

My main tank they get a lot puffer and extend more in brighter light.
 
The flow looks ok to me in the 25% video.

What's your phosphate right now? A few weeks ago you said you were getting .01, maybe dose just phosphate instead of feeding heavier since your nitrates are already high? I think your crushed coral substrate is also fairly new, so that could be a reason why your phosphates are low.
 
dangalang said:
The flow looks ok to me in the 25% video.

What's your phosphate right now? A few weeks ago you said you were getting .01, maybe dose just phosphate instead of feeding heavier since your nitrates are already high? I think your crushed coral substrate is also fairly new, so that could be a reason why your phosphates are low.
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I will test later on when I get home.
 
My $0.02 is I would not go lower than the 25% pic. I'd of gone at least that level (and probably higher in both tanks).

Oddly the hammers look slighty better right now in the 65 gallon tank lower light than when the higher par lighting comes on.
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If they look healthier/happier in lower light, then maybe that's a sign you should give them lower light? Also keep in mind the light is different at different parts of your tank, as is the flow. So don't move all of them around, move some to different spaces and see if any seem better. But also changing things all the time can also be detrimental, so it's a balance.

My main tank they get a lot puffer and extend more in brighter light.
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More light based on a PAR meter or subjectively?
 
richiev said:
My $0.02 is I would not go lower than the 25% pic. I'd of gone at least that level (and probably higher in both tanks).


If they look healthier/happier in lower light, then maybe that's a sign you should give them lower light? Also keep in mind the light is different at different parts of your tank, as is the flow. So don't move all of them around, move some to different spaces and see if any seem better. But also changing things all the time can also be detrimental, so it's a balance.



More light based on a PAR meter or subjectively?
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Par meter not a guess. The spectrum is totally different but not par.
 
What is the pH of your other tank? I saw this tank tested low at 7.8. You'll commonly hear people say don't go chasing pH. I personally feel that pH is one of the most important factors in our reef tanks, it just has to be "chased" in the right way. No using any "magic in a bottle" products that say they will increase your pH. Do it only by introducing fresh air and/or running a Co2 scrubber (only run it as recirculating if you understand the risks it can bring to your tank and how to avoid it from flooding the scrubber chamber). I guarantee getting your pH above 8 will almost (if not) double the extension and puffiness of your Euphylia.
 
Arvin R said:
What is the pH of your other tank? I saw this tank tested low at 7.8. You'll commonly hear people say don't go chasing pH. I personally feel that pH is one of the most important factors in our reef tanks, it just has to be "chased" in the right way. No using any "magic in a bottle" products that say they will increase your pH. Do it only by introducing fresh air and/or running a Co2 scrubber (only run it as recirculating if you understand the risks it can bring to your tank and how to avoid it from flooding the scrubber chamber). I guarantee getting your pH above 8 will almost (if not) double the extension and puffiness of your Euphylia.
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I can check when i get home never checked it in this tank.
 
I've been trying to catch up the best I can with all the updates. Sounds like you're having ups and downs. Same here bud. I need to get my butt in gear and update my journal, and honestly, make a few more. It's good to learn and get inspired from others' journey. Thanks Michael.
 
ReyDeFarts said:
I've been trying to catch up the best I can with all the updates. Sounds like you're having ups and downs. Same here bud. I need to get my butt in gear and update my journal, and honestly, make a few more. It's good to learn and get inspired from others' journey. Thanks Michael.
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Not any major issues just trying to get things dialed in. My Main tank is doing awesome.
 
Are you soaking/curring your new dry rock already or plan to before you add?
If it's older dry rock that's been in a tank for years Id definitely soak and do a few weekly water changes..Testing the water you will notice parameters dropping each week from them leaching then will stabilize.. If there unused then less soaking/curring but Ive had new pukani loaded which took a while for parameters to drop! It may cut down on the new rock getting the uglies as well since you built up a slime coat by curring first..Just tossing that out their since you were concerned about numbers previously
 
PjFish said:
Are you soaking/curring your new dry rock already or plan to before you add?
If it's older dry rock that's been in a tank for years Id definitely soak and do a few weekly water changes..Testing the water you will notice parameters dropping each week from them leaching then will stabilize.. If there unused then less soaking/curring but Ive had new pukani loaded which took a while for parameters to drop! It may cut down on the new rock getting the uglies as well since you built up a slime coat by curring first..Just tossing that out their since you were concerned about numbers previously
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I was considering placing it in the sump of the tank. In black out conditions in the stand. I could also do a different container as well. Only hold up is getting my butt into gear and finishing fusing it together with the mortar.
 
Arvin R said:
What is the pH of your other tank? I saw this tank tested low at 7.8. You'll commonly hear people say don't go chasing pH. I personally feel that pH is one of the most important factors in our reef tanks, it just has to be "chased" in the right way. No using any "magic in a bottle" products that say they will increase your pH. Do it only by introducing fresh air and/or running a Co2 scrubber (only run it as recirculating if you understand the risks it can bring to your tank and how to avoid it from flooding the scrubber chamber). I guarantee getting your pH above 8 will almost (if not) double the extension and puffiness of your Euphylia.
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Living room 2.5 feet apart
Ph 65 gallon tank 8.6
Ph softie grown out tank 8.55

Bedroom
Ph main biocube32 8.25
 
MichaelB said:
Living room 2.5 feet apart
Ph 65 gallon tank 8.6
Ph softie grown out tank 8.55

Bedroom
Ph main biocube32 8.25
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What pH tester are you using? I'm wondering because 8.6 and 8.55 are very high readings that majority of advanced SPS keepers strive to hit and only very few actually do. Questioning the accuracy of your tester is my main point.
 
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