Cali Kid Corals

Alex’s IM 150 EXT

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Assuming there's some small error built into your alk result, the PH probe, and the CO2 monitor - I'm not seeing any big mystery here?
 

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Assuming there's some small error built into your alk result, the PH probe, and the CO2 monitor - I'm not seeing any big mystery here?
This assumes alk of 7.7/7.8, which I only referenced from the ICP. You go down your matrix and select alk above 8 and assume I get CO2 down to 500 ppm, N/19, which I did for several days the week before, I should get 8.2, which I do not get with this tank.

I had alk above 9 (unintentionally) which did not move the needle at all, and potentially links to my issues where I have to dose high amounts of bicarb to reach normal alk levels (probably more than twice the normal amounts).
 
Where are your probes located, what brand are they, and how do you calibrate them? They can often drift significantly in just a week because both tanks appear to trend the same over the past day. Most hobby grade probes really are only good for trending and it looks like both have similar diurnal cycles of about 0.2 units.
 
This assumes alk of 7.7/7.8, which I only referenced from the ICP. You go down your matrix and select alk above 8 and assume I get CO2 down to 500 ppm, N/19, which I did for several days the week before, I should get 8.2, which I do not get with this tank.

I had alk above 9 (unintentionally) which did not move the needle at all, and potentially links to my issues where I have to dose high amounts of bicarb to reach normal alk levels (probably more than twice the normal amounts).

All these values assume that tank CO2 levels are at equilibrium with ambient air. Personally, the first thing I would do is confirm that there is not a gas exchange deficiency in your larger tank before doing anything else.
 
All these values assume that tank CO2 levels are at equilibrium with ambient air. Personally, the first thing I would do is confirm that there is not a gas exchange deficiency in your larger tank before doing anything else.
@Alexander1312 I also have a large skimmer and a ton of surface agitation. It takes my tank several *days* of consistently low CO2 in the air for the PH to normalize at what I would expect to, based on the tables/science.

If your tank is indeed producing a lot of co2 (which I think is a perfectly reasonable assessment) it could potentially take your tank even longer for this equalization to happen. What I have noticed is that each sequential day the PH sort of inches up as the equalization "catches up" a bit each cycle - the peak gets a little higher and the valley gets a little higher. But one ugly day (my wife shuts all the windows) and it falls immediately.
 
Next steps in the chasing the PH journey. Or rather fixing PH. There are rather complex reasons why I am doing the below and I will try to summarize this at a later point, so the below does intentionally not explain the ‘why’.
  1. Significantly reduce skimming - a previously planned action I had not yet implemented.
  2. Significantly reduce return pump flow - a previously planned action I had not yet implemented.
  3. Pausing BOLUS as BOLUS requires PH above 8.2 to be effective.
  4. Change to 24/7 alk and CA dosing until PH is back on track. Then return to BOLUS.
  5. Adjust light schedule due to pausing BOLUS.
  6. Limit water changes to cleaning the substrate only. This is a fun one which I might discuss or comment on more.
  7. Allowing phosphates to temporarily rise higher (not long term).
  8. Further diluting the alk by 100% since the solubility of bicarb is not great.
 
you're asking for disaster just to chase pH with all those changes. since you have no fuge, no kalk dosing, or no co2 scrubber, just try to draw in fresh air somewhere into your skimmer pump - ie: window.

but good luck in whatever want to achieve. imo, you're making this hobby harder for yourself than what it is. rule #1 - dont chase numbers.
 
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