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Alex’s IM 150 EXT

Weekends are pretty busy recently with the normal stuff plus getting both tanks ready for 17 days vacation overseas from June 2 onwards.

ATO container size has been an issue for me since my <20 gallon ATO container will only last 14 days or potentially less.

So I did now a 'dry-run' of the temporary setup with the Hydros ATO and 16 gallon Brute container as backup.

To make this work, I used the following:

- Hydros triple sensor
- Hydros ATO pump
- 9 feet extension cable for the sense port
- 9 feet extension cable for the drive port
- 16 gallon Brute

Worked very well, and I might replace the RedSea ATO in this tank and the (annyoing) Tunze ATO in my nano tank with the Hydros ATO going forward.

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Once you get a good sense of average run time, program a max on time as an additional fail safe, if you haven't done so already.
 
My hydros ATO is still going strong after 3 years of service and basically no maintenance. Interested to see if you have the same success with it.

The integration is great. The pump itself seems very flimsy but it only needs to process RODI water, so probably good enough - and it is strong. Also, I am bit worried about the tiny triple sensor with the magnet which does not seem to hold the sensor in place as well as the RedSea or the Tunze.
 
I had a water leakage issue with the ‘DIY’ skimmate container setup this week (while traveling).

The 5L container overflowed briefly due to an issue with the Hydros collective not returning fully after feeding, including the return pump. The tank was not running through filtration for approximately 1.5 hours. When I remotely (big mistake) reactivated the devices, the skimmer pushed heavily into the container, which resulted in a mess. Unfortunately, my massive cable issue, which I had previously disclosed, was partially impacted by this, but nothing happened.

A few actions from this.
  1. I wanted to understand why the collective had the issue, as it had never happened before. I only recently connected the various S2 to the Wave Engine LE, and after some initial hiccups with setting this up (separate post), it seemed to work ok. However, there had been issues previously when trying to restart this after feeding, but it would always turn on. One potential problem I identified could be that the Wave Engine LE is being turned off during feed mode. I only accidentally set this up, not intentionally, so I have changed this to always on. Secondly, the wave engine LE should not be connected to a return pump, according to the Hydros Facebook forum and CoralVue customer support. They do not say precisely why, but it appears it is not powerful enough compared to the Wave Engine v2. So I connected the return pump to the Wave Engine V2 and moved two of the four gyres to the Wave Engine LE.
  2. I was planning to temporarily replace the skimmate container with a larger one during vacation, but I could not find one that fits behind the stand and has the proper height for gravity to do its job (see pictures). I found a 5-gallon container that has a good height fit, but it seems impossible to buy a longer skimmer drain hose for the reef Octo Elite 200 int. If anyone knows where to buy this, I would greatly appreciate it.
  3. I had plans to install more leak detectors. I had them previously but moved things around and was now left without them. I did some research, and this one seemed very good. It cost 30 USD. The benefit over the Hydros is that it does not need another cable.
  4. I have to fix this cable mess. But I need help with ideas on what to do. I am currently thinking of a short cabinet with drawers where I can put the various power bricks.

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I had a water leakage issue with the ‘DIY’ skimmate container setup this week (while traveling).

The 5L container overflowed briefly due to an issue with the Hydros collective not returning fully after feeding, including the return pump. The tank was not running through filtration for approximately 1.5 hours. When I remotely (big mistake) reactivated the devices, the skimmer pushed heavily into the container, which resulted in a mess. Unfortunately, my massive cable issue, which I had previously disclosed, was partially impacted by this, but nothing happened.

A few actions from this.
  1. I wanted to understand why the collective had the issue, as it had never happened before. I only recently connected the various S2 to the Wave Engine LE, and after some initial hiccups with setting this up (separate post), it seemed to work ok. However, there had been issues previously when trying to restart this after feeding, but it would always turn on. One potential problem I identified could be that the Wave Engine LE is being turned off during feed mode. I only accidentally set this up, not intentionally, so I have changed this to always on. Secondly, the wave engine LE should not be connected to a return pump, according to the Hydros Facebook forum and CoralVue customer support. They do not say precisely why, but it appears it is not powerful enough compared to the Wave Engine v2. So I connected the return pump to the Wave Engine V2 and moved two of the four gyres to the Wave Engine LE.
  2. I was planning to temporarily replace the skimmate container with a larger one during vacation, but I could not find one that fits behind the stand and has the proper height for gravity to do its job (see pictures). I found a 5-gallon container that has a good height fit, but it seems impossible to buy a longer skimmer drain hose for the reef Octo Elite 200 int. If anyone knows where to buy this, I would greatly appreciate it.
  3. I had plans to install more leak detectors. I had them previously but moved things around and was now left without them. I did some research, and this one seemed very good. It cost 30 USD. The benefit over the Hydros is that it does not need another cable.
  4. I have to fix this cable mess. But I need help with ideas on what to do. I am currently thinking of a short cabinet with drawers where I can put the various power bricks.

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For the skimmer line, go on AliExpress and look up silicone tubing. Ideally use a caliper to measure your current one, but a ruler should get you close enough. Err on the side of the outer number being slightly thicker and the inner number slightly smaller than you think if you can't guess the exact size.

You need the outer number to not be too thin itor the tubing easily collapses, and the inner being too big makes it a leaky connection.

Buy a bunch of different sizes at once. Usually can make it to the bay area in a week in my experience, but that's before tariffs. Very cheap. Buy a bunch of tubing for long dosing lines while at it.

Also I'd be careful about that external skimmer dump into a jug while on vacation. If the skimmer goes crazy it'll pump into the cup, which then will fill into the jug. Then the ATO will kick on dropping salinity and keeping the water level up, which then will keep water flowing into the cup and jug, which then can mean a salinity crash and a flooded floor.

Mitigation for that risk is either keep that jug sealed and everything water tight, so when it fills the cup will just bubble into the tank. Alternatively a float valve sensor in the jug.

The other mitigation is have a valve on the skimmer dump line, and ask a tank sitter to open then close it when they're there if possible. Or put the skimmer jug over the sump so if overflowing it just flows back.
 
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Another thing - You need to delay your skimmer by a minute or two when the pumps come back on, because the water level is super high in your sump - which is what causes the skimmer to overflow the skimmate container.

If you program a 90 second delay your skimmer won’t turn on again until the sump water level is back to normal.
Yes, correct. I did mean to mention this. I usually have a 10 minute delay but reduced it recently to 5 minutes. Remember my return flow is VERY slow, approx 1.5 times or less tank turnover per hour, so I need to wait longer for the sump level to get back to normal. But good point.
 
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