Reef nutrition

Alex’s Red Sea Reefer Nano (28-gallon)

Alexander1312

Supporting Member
Bought this tank today from @Twisted, and really appreciated all of his help getting this properly loaded into my car the advice on the plumbing.

I currently have the Red Sea Max Nano Peninsula which I feel is a terrible tank, but the footprint works in my son’s bedroom.

Since this is one of the smallest (discontinued) tanks with sump, it felt it was the best of both worlds. And I could just transfer over my Max Nano equipment.

Next steps will be to figure out the simple plumbing, which will not be simple for me (no clue how to do but got great advice).

I also bought a UV sterilizer from him, which ideally would be plumbed into this, since this is meant to take over the coral quarantine tank content from the other tank, but I would probably need help with this.

More to come but very happy with the purchase, a very solid and well maintained small tank.
 
Ok, hopefully, this will make progress in the next few days. I am starting to put the plumbing together. Although it is as simple as it can be, I cannot do plumbing. Will see how it goes.

The big activity however was to move the current max nano to a different side of the room to make space for this tank, and then eventually move everything from the max nano into this tank. This took half a day last weekend, lots of devices plugged into this little tank.

I have everything I need for this tank, but might need to splurge on a light, ideally used. The Red Sea LED 50 Watt has been okay to light some of the easy acros I got from the swaps, etc., but it it is the bare minimum or below. This might need to be a Reefi or so, or Kessil(?). Will see, since the other tank also needs two additional Reefis.

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The new tank has been up now for a few months and while it does get regular attention, it has not been making any meaningful progress and was going through waves of ugly phases.

Ugly phases due to bad rock - Kalkwasser victim + inadequate trace element dosing

I claim that that the reasons for the never ending ugly phases were the amount of bad stuff in the rock I used - which I had since the inception of my reefing days, which started as recent as in September 2022 - and the amount of stuff which has been leaching out from it into the new tank, bringing the water chemistry continously out of balance.

Phosphates rise up to 0.5 mg/l in a couple of weeks if I do not treat the tank with lanthanum chloride continously - with only one mini 6 line wrasse and one cleaner shrimp in it which I feed a tiny amount once daily.

The continous rise in phosphates comes from the continous Kalkwasser dripping into the tank over 1.5 years, IMO, and is a vivid reminder for me to never do this again, even though it seemed to be a very inexpensive and easy way to get Alk and CA into the tank - but frankly, there are other ways to do this with less brute force.

The other traces which the rock took on came most likely from heavy hitting stuff like Captiv8 MT, which is a good product to use under very specific circumstances and by NOT following the instructions - I wish Chris Wood made this clear in one of his earlier videos, he only started saying this later when he mentioned to only use 1/4 of the recommended dose in the beginning. It is also made for refugium use. In summary, a simple product which is too easy to overdose so not something I would recommend the average reefer to use (even though it is also inexpensive)

Equipment changes

While I am not happy with this tank, I continued to invest in setting it up for future success, with the Reefi now back over it, changing the Nyos 120 protein skimmer, which was too powerful (not phosphates), with the Icecap K1 50 I bought from @dangalang, adding an Innovative Marine UV light 10 watts, and a carbon media reactor which I was gifted by @JustinBolton.

This tank has now the following setup:
Since installing the UV light, the water cleared up significantly (!) with far less algae.

Next steps

The purpose of this new tank was always to be a frag and general quarantine tank, not to be a nice to look at display tank.
  1. Remove the rock from the tank and replace with up to 10 lbs of live rock - purchased just now from KP Aquatics which coincidentally had them in stock (they never have normally). I will be giving my currrent rock - infested with vermited snails + some corals on it - away (PIF). But please use at your own risk. See pictures
  2. Due to the lack of available live ocean sand at the moment, will move sand from my display tank into the nano tank. This s a bit of a risky move as I will not only move the good but also the bad to this tank, but I would like to have more sand in this tank and do not want to rely on artifical live sand.
  3. Adding aquacultured reef rubble I purchased from Aquabiomics this week.
  4. Adding a staggered frag rack structure filling out the entire tank, starting at 5 inch height - from clearchoice at ETSY.
  5. Place the rock below the frag rack structure.
  6. Adjust the light settings to potentially very high light to see what I can do with growing some of the acros frags I have.

Several picutures below to look at the current state - and for those who are interested in the rock.

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This skimmer died now - I assume the pump only - and I am glad I bought the same one again during the sale, which is dead silent.

CoralVue support claimed that the noise I reported in the initial video was ‘normal’, (it was not), and I just sent them another video where you can clearly hear that the pump is damaged.

Still, I very much like this skimmer for this particular tank.

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The new tank has been up now for a few months and while it does get regular attention, it has not been making any meaningful progress and was going through waves of ugly phases.

Ugly phases due to bad rock - Kalkwasser victim + inadequate trace element dosing

I claim that that the reasons for the never ending ugly phases were the amount of bad stuff in the rock I used - which I had since the inception of my reefing days, which started as recent as in September 2022 - and the amount of stuff which has been leaching out from it into the new tank, bringing the water chemistry continously out of balance.

Phosphates rise up to 0.5 mg/l in a couple of weeks if I do not treat the tank with lanthanum chloride continously - with only one mini 6 line wrasse and one cleaner shrimp in it which I feed a tiny amount once daily.

The continous rise in phosphates comes from the continous Kalkwasser dripping into the tank over 1.5 years, IMO, and is a vivid reminder for me to never do this again, even though it seemed to be a very inexpensive and easy way to get Alk and CA into the tank - but frankly, there are other ways to do this with less brute force.

The other traces which the rock took on came most likely from heavy hitting stuff like Captiv8 MT, which is a good product to use under very specific circumstances and by NOT following the instructions - I wish Chris Wood made this clear in one of his earlier videos, he only started saying this later when he mentioned to only use 1/4 of the recommended dose in the beginning. It is also made for refugium use. In summary, a simple product which is too easy to overdose so not something I would recommend the average reefer to use (even though it is also inexpensive)

Equipment changes

While I am not happy with this tank, I continued to invest in setting it up for future success, with the Reefi now back over it, changing the Nyos 120 protein skimmer, which was too powerful (not phosphates), with the Icecap K1 50 I bought from @dangalang, adding an Innovative Marine UV light 10 watts, and a carbon media reactor which I was gifted by @JustinBolton.

This tank has now the following setup:
Since installing the UV light, the water cleared up significantly (!) with far less algae.

Next steps

The purpose of this new tank was always to be a frag and general quarantine tank, not to be a nice to look at display tank.
  1. Remove the rock from the tank and replace with up to 10 lbs of live rock - purchased just now from KP Aquatics which coincidentally had them in stock (they never have normally). I will be giving my currrent rock - infested with vermited snails + some corals on it - away (PIF). But please use at your own risk. See pictures
  2. Due to the lack of available live ocean sand at the moment, will move sand from my display tank into the nano tank. This s a bit of a risky move as I will not only move the good but also the bad to this tank, but I would like to have more sand in this tank and do not want to rely on artifical live sand.
  3. Adding aquacultured reef rubble I purchased from Aquabiomics this week.
  4. Adding a staggered frag rack structure filling out the entire tank, starting at 5 inch height - from clearchoice at ETSY.
  5. Place the rock below the frag rack structure.
  6. Adjust the light settings to potentially very high light to see what I can do with growing some of the acros frags I have.

Several picutures below to look at the current state - and for those who are interested in the rock.

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Are you planning to go with more rock than is currently in it? It seems a small amount even for a nano tank. I'm not claiming any expertise here, but I do have a few tanks near that size, all have a good bit more rock. In addtion to yours being bare bottom and no sump. That may also play a role in your po4 issues. Only one of mine is bare bottom and p04 is definitely a bigger issue in that tank.

Another option maybe adding some smaller bio bricks in part of the rear chambers plenty of options in that side of things.

First one my main tank 3 plus years.
Middle has been going for a year and a half
Last picture on right has only been set up 3 days i wouldn't really count it.
2- 32 gallons, and 1 29 gallon
 

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Are you planning to go with more rock? It seems a small amount even for a nano tank. I'm not claiming any expertise here, but I do have a few tanks near that size, all have a good bit more rock. In addtion to yours being bare bottom and no sump. That may also play a role in your po4 issues. Only one of mine is bare bottom and p04 is definitely a bigger issue in that tank.
I would think bare bottom would actually help with p04 since it’s easier to keep debris off the bottom instead of in the sand?
 
I would think bare bottom would actually help with p04 since it’s easier to keep debris off the bottom instead of in the sand?

I've personally found it harder, main tank started with sand went bare bottom after a few months cause spinard worm infeststion 1000s in the sand. While it was bare bottom I could't get po4 below 1.5 barely feeding at all. I Switch to crushed coral and now it's under .4 with heavy feeding.

Again only my personal observations no real argument or stance I'm taking on the subject here at all.
 
It isn't easy to get this live rock, but I got 10 lbs recently. However, looking at the ammonia level, I might not use as much for the nano tank but rather replace some rock from the main display tank and move them to the nano and add the new live rock to the main display. I assume the ammonia from this little rock in 150 gallon will not impact overall levels signficantly.

 
That looks great! I had a similar vision for our qt/frag tank but wife went a completely different direction. I will have to show her your update and encourage her to go this route.

Forgive me if you already mentioned it, but where did you get the racks?
 
That looks great! I had a similar vision for our qt/frag tank but wife went a completely different direction. I will have to show her your update and encourage her to go this route.

Forgive me if you already mentioned it, but where did you get the racks?

Took a while to get there but this is how I envisioned what I wanted to do. Now need water, light and flow in order. All are not optimal.

They have different sizes, and he can make all sizes if the ones shown are not available.

 
Did you try to see if there was anyone in the club that could print these? If not, I may pursue trying to find a file similar to this design and see if we can have some printed.
That style of frag rack I think wouldn’t be too hard to design and there’s a lot of files for frag racks but I think the problem is finding someone with a printer big enough. Eric has a K1 Max I think which is a big printer but even that would only get to 11.81x11.81 inches. I printed a frag rack for myself for a dipping container but could only do 8.6”x8.6”
 
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