License to krill

Anna & Pablo’s RSR P650

sfsuphysics

BOD
Staff member
That’s not the best solution at all. You’ll still have pressure points at the high spots. Might level it but will create uneven load.

If I’m wrong someone correct me. I’m no engineer.
I'm no engineer either, but I think your wrong. At least in general, if you level a tank stand it's because you put stuff under it so there effectively are no "high spots" hence no pressure points. In fact that's what the stand apparently tries to do with 20+ leveling feet around the perimeter, instead of just one at each corner, it distributes the load to more places. So if you distribute the load you reduce the "pressure points", putting down composite decking could have done just that... but again depending upon how it was done.
 

JVU

BOD
Staff member
I ordered the damn feet. $28 for a pack of 5. Needed 21, paying for 25.

Big shout out to Kyle from Aqua Lab Aquaria for being extremely helpful and prompt in dealing with Red Sea!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Annoying to have to wait for them before continuing, but it’s important to have a (literally) good foundation for your new tank :)
 

rygh

Webmaster
Staff member
I think I have a solution that will be stronger than the feet but not as pretty. I will put down a 1/4” rubber mat - the type they use at gyms, which is virtually indestructible. This will absorb the irregularities in the tile floor and will be self-leveling.

On top of the mat, I will place composite decking boards, which will distribute the load from the edges of the stand.

I’ll hide it with white trim.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Self leveling mats will not help.
Key is that you want it to be level, plus have the FORCE on each point be the same.
With a springy mat, sure it will look level, but only because the high points are squished down, which means all the load is still on those
points, which means it twists your stand.

You need shims or adjustable feet.
Lots of shims are great, but a hassle, and they can pop out and move around.
Glad you ordered the feet.
 

rygh

Webmaster
Staff member
FYI: I used a different method.
I put plastic on the floor, then gobs of thickened epoxy in lots of places where stand would rest, then set stand down nice and level and let epoxy set up.
You end up with lots of epoxy shims. Perfect hight, super strong, and do not move.
 

svreef

Supporting Member
Got the feet on and the tank moved into position, but there’s a corner crack. I can’t gauge how severe it is.

What do I do now?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sfsuphysics

BOD
Staff member
Yeah that don't look good. You can see the 2nd picture where there's a thin line of the glass cracked that doesn't terminate yet so there's still more cracking to be done. Now if that was a superficial chunk of glass taken out of the edge I would be less worried, The silicone looks fine, and for a smaller sized tank I wouldn't be too worried, but yeah that crack doesn't look finished and there's no telling which direction it could go.

Was that black backing covering that up at all this whole time? The seller maybe didn't know? Or worse... did know.
 

Coral reefer

BOD
Staff member
Yeah that don't look good. You can see the 2nd picture where there's a thin line of the glass cracked that doesn't terminate yet so there's still more cracking to be done. Now if that was a superficial chunk of glass taken out of the edge I would be less worried, The silicone looks fine, and for a smaller sized tank I wouldn't be too worried, but yeah that crack doesn't look finished and there's no telling which direction it could go.

Was that black backing covering that up at all this whole time? The seller maybe didn't know? Or worse... did know.
Any idea how that happened? Loading/unloading maybe? I never saw it that’s for sure. The black back is factory so not added to hide anything.
 

svreef

Supporting Member
It probably happened while moving the tank. The black covering is factory on the overflow side.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sfsuphysics

BOD
Staff member
Depending upon how much risk you want to ride, you MAY be able to fix it with that same crap they sell for minor windshield repairs, it's a liquid resin that you squirt into a little suction cup dodad and great pressure to force it into all the cracks, however I'm fairly certain it's UV activated so if you went that route you'd want to put your tank outside to cure... yeah I dunno.
 

Coral reefer

BOD
Staff member
Dang, that’s a big time bummer. I broke a tank one time loading it into my van. Pushed the edge right into a metal seat holder that is almost but not quite flush with the floor.
Maybe ask Red Sea if they have any ideas on how to fix or reinforce it.
 

Flagg37

Supporting Member
You can take it outside and fill it up but even if it doesn’t fail now isn’t a guarantee that it won’t fail later.
 

svreef

Supporting Member
Thx everyone, I’m crushed but in the end it’s about $$$. I’m going to see how many of those it takes to replace the tank.

Anyone want a lovely, rimless terrarium?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

xcaret

Guest
There’s someone here on BAR that does glass work and I’m sure you could get a quote on a pice of glass to replace that; worth more than the shot!,
 

MarAquatic

Supporting Member
There’s someone here on BAR that does glass work and I’m sure you could get a quote on a pice of glass to replace that; worth more than the shot!,
Hey I haven't forgotten about you. Let me remind the office lady tomorrow about your piece

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

MarAquatic

Supporting Member
Thst crack looks to be on the inside of the pane. It might hold for ever but once you fill with water thr pressure will most likely make the chip run. If it was on the outside it wouldn't be much of an issue.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Chromis

Supporting Member
Much better to spend the $500 on a new tank and never know if it would have held water or not, then to use a cracked tank and find out.
 
Top