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Biocube 29

James Oh

James Oh

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Thought I'd start a journal because work is slow today. (Dont tell anyone lol) First time ever owning any type of aquarium and am about a month and half in. Added some type of xenia(?) 2 weeks ago that melted in 24 hours... worried me that the tank is still not ready... decided I wanted to try one more time so added a zoa last Friday which has closed up and still is. Only have 1 domino and 2 hermits which all seem to be doing great. Every time I add any type of snail they also die with in 24 hrs... but such is life. Any who here are some pics of what is happening so far.

Edit - okay guess I'll upload pics at home seem to be having some problems.
 
I purchased live rock and live sand from LFS. My SO has a tank she started a month before me so it was recommended that I take her water during her water change and use it in mine. The tank cycled in 24 hours but as precautionary measure I dosed 2ppm ammonia and it was nitrates the next day. I waited a week before adding any live stock just to really make sure. Every time I dosed ammonia it was nitrates the next day.

One thing though that is way off is my phosphate. Tested with a Hanna phosphorus checker and it is pegging 200. So I used a salifert phosphate test and according to my SO it's at .5 ppm which from what I read that is really high? (I stuck at reading those colors.)

One more thing I wanted to add. I ended up getting a hydra 26hd that is about 8 in from the surface. Running it in a 30% acclimation mode but I honestly have no earthly idea what the par is down at the bottom of my tank where the zoa is situated.
 
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Little update. Was doing some testing for about a week and some water changes through out. This is the results.

Excel Test results.PNG


Looks like my dkH is creeping up but my magnesium and calcium are dropping. My phosphorus, (.6 phosphate?) is not going anywhere but it is hard to say because the hanna checker CAPS out at 200 so god knows how high it is. The last time I checked it with a salifert checker it was around .5 but that color differential is so hard to look at... Today I found a sponge that is between chamber 2 and 3 that I never even knew was there (took that out and threw it away). I am hopping it was the sponge that is causing my phosphates to peg max but I don't even know if that is what is causing my problems. Guess I never really talked about the equipment in my tank so we'll go with that.

Biocube 29
Tank Age - ~2 months old
Live rock and sand.

2 Zoas (one rhasta and one I can't remember...)
1 Domino Damsel
1 Mexican Turbo
1 Hermit

1 Maxijet power head (soon to be replaced with mp10 w qd once the wetside I ordered gets in)

Back Chamber 1 - Coralife Protein Skimmer
Back Chamber 2 - Media Rack (Filter floss, Purigen, and Chemi pure elite) and Chaeto (bout golf ball size)
Back Chamber 3 - Cobalt MJ1200 and Cobalt 100w Heater.

Lights - Hydra 26 HD





So that is where every thing is at atm. The first zoa I got is still all closed up been about a little over a week. The 2nd one I got closed up the moment I put him in the tank. At least they are not melting? I think? Just playing the waiting game for now and trying to figure out if my phosphate is way out of line or if this is just par for the course due to it being a new tank. For now just going to keep doing my weekly water change. Any input would be delightful!
 
It looks like the live rock adequately started your cycle but it’s probably also your source of phosphates. Are you still using you significant other’s water change water for your tank or was that a one time thing? If so then that’s the other. Is the other tank another reef tank?
 
Using her water was just a one time thing to boost the cycle. Also her tank is a Fowlr tank. Oh man.. so the rocks .. that is a shame. Will they eventually stop?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
I wonder if the Chemipure is flat out exausted due to the phophates being so high in my tank... Should I throw the chemi pure elite away and just go with a GFO? or is there a better solution?
 
Use RODI. Tested fresh salt water mix. Never test the alk on a new batch... only the phosphates of it b/c i was most worried about that. So is my Alk way too high too? Yah just ordered a GFO reactor today along with GFO.
 
Alk is kinda high, not way too high, but I wonder what your fresh mix tests at. Give it a try.
You don't see phosphates in your new water though right?
 
Bit of an update.

Forgot to measure the ALK for the new water =\. So changed a couple things up.

Last Wednesday I got a GFO reactor and starting using it. Friday I checked my Phosphorous still 200 BUT when I use my Hanna Checker and put in the reagent to mix with my water it does not turn a super dark blue like it used to so I assume it is doing its job. (I am assuming the darker blue the mixture becomes the higher your phosphate? Can't tell b/c 200 is the max it will read and it always hit 200 with my water.) Also didn't realize GFO lowers alk because my alk is around 8.1 yesterday and 8.2 today.

Yesterday I picked up three new corals. I really wanted a zoa only tank but couldn't stand just looking at my 2 closed up zoas so... yah.... guess it'll just be a mixed reef lol. I believe they are a GSP and 2 Favias? I think? Dunno so here are pics. Also pics of my closed up zoas...




Other than my phosphates being a bit high my magnesium seems to have dipped a bit too down to 1160. Just did a water change so hoping that will balance some things out a bit and raise it up. (Use red sea coral pro salt )

So yah those zoas... wish I could see them lol last time i saw them fully open was at the LFS...(3 and 1 week ago)
 
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Ive had zoas close up for weeks at a time and then fully reopen. Your mag isn't that bad. I keep mine in the 1400-1600 range
 
James Oh said:
Bit of an update.

Forgot to measure the ALK for the new water =\. So changed a couple things up.

Last Wednesday I got a GFO reactor and starting using it. Friday I checked my Phosphorous still 200 BUT when I use my Hanna Checker and put in the reagent to mix with my water it does not turn a super dark blue like it used to so I assume it is doing its job. (I am assuming the darker blue the mixture becomes the higher your phosphate? Can't tell b/c 200 is the max it will read and it always hit 200 with my water.) Also didn't realize GFO lowers alk because my alk is around 8.1 yesterday and 8.2 today.

Yesterday I picked up three new corals. I really wanted a zoa only tank but couldn't stand just looking at my 2 closed up zoas so... yah.... guess it'll just be a mixed reef lol. I believe they are a GSP and 2 Favias? I think? Dunno so here are pics. Also pics of my closed up zoas...




Other than my phosphates being a bit high my magnesium seems to have dipped a bit too down to 1160. Just did a water change so hoping that will balance some things out a bit and raise it up. (Use red sea salt blue bucket)

So yah those zoas... wish I could see them lol last time i saw them fully open was at the LFS...(3 and 1 week ago)
Click to expand...

Red Sea blue bucket mag levels aren't that high around 1275-1300, if I remember correctly. So you won't see much of an increase with a water change. If you are going to keep you alk in the low 8s, mag around 1300 is good.
 
tankguy said:
Ive had zoas close up for weeks at a time and then fully reopen. Your mag isn't that bad. I keep mine in the 1400-1600 range
Click to expand...

Ah okay for some reason i thought the difference between 1100 ish to 1400 ish was a big jump. At what levels should i worry?


RandyC said:
Red Sea blue bucket mag levels aren't that high around 1275-1300, if I remember correctly. So you won't see much of an increase with a water change. If you are going to keep you alk in the low 8s, mag around 1300 is good.
Click to expand...

Sorry that was a mistake on my part. I meant red seal coral pro (the black bucket)
 
Might be worth dosing a little Prime, perhaps you have a little chlorine or chloramine contamination from cleaning something? That would totally explain the invertebrate death and corals being irritated.

Also, how are you checking your salinity? A good refractometer is the best way. If your salinity is off by more than 2ppt from your local fish store, that would also explain the issues.

Finally, what's the temperature in the tank?
 
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