Kessil

Check valve on return line

Nope, always heard it was bad to go with them. Is this so the water doesn't overflow in your sump when the power goes out? Use a siphon break.
 
Pros: It'll stop water... at least initially :D

Con: It will eventually fail. If you choose a clear one you can keep an eye on it and clean it as necessary, requiring a couple unions to be able to remove it. How do you know when it'll fail? How much gunk is enough? Willing to clean it during every water change?

Overall it's easier to make sure the return into the tank is the proper height with the amount of available volume you allow in your sump.
 
Had one and it failed less than 24 hours after installtion......that said it's a minimal expense that might work vs nothing.

-Gregory
 
GDawson said:
Had one and it failed less than 24 hours after installtion......that said it's a minimal expense that might work vs nothing.

-Gregory

True, however if you set up your return correctly, you should not need a check valve (it would be of zero use).
 
iani said:
GDawson said:
Had one and it failed less than 24 hours after installtion......that said it's a minimal expense that might work vs nothing.

-Gregory

True, however if you set up your return correctly, you should not need a check valve (it would be of zero use).

Very true.....

-Gregory
 
NECRO POSTING:
I've changed my mind regarding check valves. I just saw this way of using them in a non standard way where water never flows through them.

Granted I'd change up the direction of the valve however the idea is the same. This guy has his return plumbed all the way to the bottom of the tank the idea is that if you ever lose power to your return pump the check valve opens (it's plumbed in reverse so water doesn't flow out) and takes a big gulp of air to prevent a siphon.
603325_4633406363271_1676126140_n.jpg
 
2350FA7A-DDBA-4583-B7F2-24B7F6A3C04F-4081-0000098387A636FD.jpg


I have one on mine. It's clear w/unions so I tell when it needs cleaning. I've never had it fail...knock on wood. Get the one w/the flap and not the spring loaded ones...which will fail.
 
gimmito said:
I have one on mine. It's clear w/unions so I tell when it needs cleaning. I've never had it fail...knock on wood. Get the one w/the flap and not the spring loaded ones...which will fail.

The one you have has the big advantage that it does not restrict flow over the cheap spring ones.

And it does have one less failure mode - not reliant on a spring.
But instead, gunk can make it stick wide open easier, since there is no spring to push it closed, only water flow.
And it can still get gunk in the seal area, so it may not close 100% tight.

So better.

But in my opinion, why risk it. A siphon break is not that hard to put in.
 
sfsuphysics said:
NECRO POSTING:
I've changed my mind regarding check valves. I just saw this way of using them in a non standard way where water never flows through them.

Granted I'd change up the direction of the valve however the idea is the same. This guy has his return plumbed all the way to the bottom of the tank the idea is that if you ever lose power to your return pump the check valve opens (it's plumbed in reverse so water doesn't flow out) and takes a big gulp of air to prevent a siphon.
603325_4633406363271_1676126140_n.jpg

This looks like a really good idea... I think I'm going to do this!
 
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