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Coral problems

nnero66466 said:
No not close up but my camera isn’t taking the best pics so I tried either out of water. But reshot them in tank. All my parameters are normal.
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Something is out of wack for sure. A healthy coral should not die in 3 days without there being an issue. A likely cause may be that one of your methods of testing is not calibrated properly ie. hypo salinity, temperature too high or low, etc.
You can also look into an ICP test to check for toxic metals, nutrient imbalance, etc, but those things would be less likely to kill a coral so quickly.

You don't have a powerhead blasting them directly, right?
 
Just brainstorming a bit, PH is on the low end, I wonder if its dropping even more at night time when the lights go out? Is there a fuge in the system?
 
The hammer looks a little algae-covered to be 3 days dead? Unless i’m seeing it weirdly from blues

I’d check salinity first and foremost. Good luck
 
What type of rock or structure is this ? Volcanic/Homemade /natural reef rock…Almost looks like a fossilized mineral rock maybe my eyes are trippin! Certain rocks are not reef safe and can leach chemicals along with homemade cement structures if made with wrong ingredients!
Oh back in September what caused your salinity to be way off ? And how did you resolve
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PjFish said:
What type of rock or structure is this ? Volcanic/Homemade /natural reef rock…Almost looks like a fossilized mineral rock maybe my eyes are trippin! Certain rocks are not reef safe and can leach chemicals along with homemade cement structures if made with wrong ingredients!
Oh back in September what caused your salinity to be way off ? And how did you resolve View attachment 61668
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Pretty sure it’s one of the structures I built bought from high tide. Was dry, but old live rock. Should be just fine
 
Coral reefer said:
Pretty sure it’s one of the structures I built bought from high tide. Was dry, but old live rock. Should be just fine
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Dry rock from hightide aquatics. I’ve started a journal with what I have and latest water tests that I did today. Hammer died pretty instantly. Torch I moved it out to my other tank in hopes I can save it.
Fish Boss said:
Just brainstorming a bit, PH is on the low end, I wonder if it’s dropping even more at night time when the lights go out? Is there a fuge in the system?
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No fuge Ph drop .1 usually and occ. .2. Today 7.63 done in the morning. Salinity 1.026 ppm. All 8.6 dKh.
 
These corals are fine in the water box but every thing else just won’t stay aluve
 

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nnero66466 said:
All info in my journal started today. But I test with IPA master test kit. Digital for salinity and it’s backed up by 2 refractors that Kenny at hightide aquatics calibrates for me.
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Do you mean API master test kit?
nnero66466 said:
Possibly. What can be done to help with that
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there are a few things you can do, hopefully someone more knowledgeable can chime in. You can run a refugium opposite of your lighting schedule. When the display lights are on, your corals suck up CO2 and raise the PH, when your display is off, your fuge takes over to suck up CO2 and raise PH. You can also run a CO2 scrubbing media on your protein skimmer airline. Lastly, you can run kalkwasser, though I believe it’s primarily used for raising calc and alk. I’ve heard that your alkalinity also buffers your PH, so a low PH can slowly whittle down your alk.

There was a BRS video I watched that said that 7.8 PH is generally the threshold for corals building skeletons. Lower can dissolve them, 7.8 can build skeleton but could be brittle and inefficient, higher (to a certain extent) builds skeleton stronger and more efficiently
 
Wanted to chime in about the BRS 7.8 claim: I know a couple people whose pH stays around 7.4 and grow coral decently well. Would it be faster and stronger if pH was higher? Probably, but the coral can still manage

But still: tip for a free pH boost, no automation required: open a window
 
tribbitt said:
Wanted to chime in about the BRS 7.8 claim: I know a couple people whose pH stays around 7.4 and grow coral decently well. Would it be faster and stronger if pH was higher? Probably, but the coral can still manage

But still: tip for a free pH boost, no automation required: open a window
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WOW that is very interesting that they can grow coral at 7.4! I was a bit skeptical of the claim, since many people grow pretty good coral at 7.8
 
Fish Boss said:
WOW that is very interesting that they can grow coral at 7.4! I was a bit skeptical of the claim, since many people grow pretty good coral at 7.8
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It's not even mathematically possible to have PH that low in a reef tank unless the CO2 in the room is astronomical AND alk is rock bottom. If you're testing PH at 7.4 it just means your PH probe is wrong.

I do agree with @tribbitt though in that opening a window is usually the easiest way to get a PH boost. :)

If your PH is actually 7.4, and your alk is 7dkh, it means you have 3k+ levels of CO2 in the air around your tank. Note that 1k CO2 is where cognitive impairment starts in humans, and 5k is toxic to health.

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tribbitt said:
Wanted to chime in about the BRS 7.8 claim: I know a couple people whose pH stays around 7.4 and grow coral decently well. Would it be faster and stronger if pH was higher? Probably, but the coral can still manage

But still: tip for a free pH boost, no automation required: open a window
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Not sure I trust the 7.4 measurement, but yes fresh air will usually help
 
derek_SR said:
It's not even mathematically possible to have PH that low in a reef tank unless the CO2 in the room is astronomical AND alk is rock bottom. If you're testing PH at 7.4 it just means your PH probe is wrong.

I do agree with @tribbitt though in that opening a window is usually the easiest way to get a PH boost. :)

If your PH is actually 7.4, and your alk is 7dkh, it means you have 3k+ levels of CO2 in the air around your tank. Note that 1k CO2 is where cognitive impairment starts in humans, and 5k is toxic to health.

View attachment 61793
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I'm thinking api test kit is issue, I had random numbers all over the place using those.
 
I did not read thru this thread. I will say. API test kit is basically useless after cycle. I know some people still use it after cycle. I would invest in Hanna checkers or salifert test kits.
Honestly tho. Your best interest would be to come to the swap on Saturday. Find someone who has experience. There are a lot of us. Sit down and have a good talk. If you spent a few hours talking. It will save you a year of headaches. Guaranteed
 
derek_SR said:
It's not even mathematically possible to have PH that low in a reef tank unless the CO2 in the room is astronomical AND alk is rock bottom. If you're testing PH at 7.4 it just means your PH probe is wrong.

I do agree with @tribbitt though in that opening a window is usually the easiest way to get a PH boost. :)

If your PH is actually 7.4, and your alk is 7dkh, it means you have 3k+ levels of CO2 in the air around your tank. Note that 1k CO2 is where cognitive impairment starts in humans, and 5k is toxic to health.

View attachment 61793
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Hmm. All i know is that’s what he measured when I asked… He was a fan of not dosing much so I believed him

But according to these charts I should not have low ph and yet here I am, with significantly lower pH than the tables say i should have

Bht at the same time, my co2 is 12-1500ppm in my room, and thus I have cognitive impairment, so there’s a chance i’m misremembering entirely.
 
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