Oops just fixed it https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/pinpoint-ph-probe-lab-grade-double-junction-american-marine/Can you link that again? Link posted to a different thread.
Oops just fixed it https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/pinpoint-ph-probe-lab-grade-double-junction-american-marine/Can you link that again? Link posted to a different thread.
I agree. I have several pH pen probes that I have been using. All are calibrated regularly. They don't swing anywhere near the amount of the cheapo constant monitoring device I recently tried. It's quick and easy to do a 3 point calibration. I picked up another good unit (Apera PH60) from @Alexander1312 for a frag trade. I've been happy with that one. I compare that with a couple others I keep around just to make sure I'm getting consistent results.Regardless of quality the upkeep remains the same
You are doing things based upon the numbers you see
If they are inaccurate...there’s a problem
I’m just saying
Clean your probes
And calibrate regularly
We did them weekly as several places I've worked. Buy the cal fluids in bulk!Regardless of quality the upkeep remains the same
You are doing things based upon the numbers you see
If they are inaccurate...there’s a problem
I’m just saying
Clean your probes
And calibrate regularly
Derek, I have seen you posting these concerns and I believe you have been using the Milwaukee probes, correct (the ones on the picture?)? I have been checking mine more frequently, I am using one in each the nano and the main display, recalibrating them with the Milwaukee calibration fluid, but I did not notice any significant issues with them. The max I have seen them being off is by 0.1 PH. Agree on the CO2 monitor, and not trusting them fully, but I was just wondering if you were using the same probes?
I am using Milwaukees right now, and have used Aperas in the past as well.Same, I've used a similar model and it's been pretty reliable with quarterly recals (just don't put sharp rocks below the bulb and have it shatter like I have stupidly done)
100% agree with this and understood. It's about a target for me and something to attempt to keep consistent is my current goal. I understand that "hobby" grade probes are nowhere near what I would consider precision. But getting consistent readings with what I have and understanding how to improve it, is what I'm really after.My experience wasn't too different, probes were typically off by .1-.15 when calibrated. But when we are talking about a typical range of say, 7.8-8.3 or so, being off by .1 or .15 is a variance of 20-30% within that range. And when you consider that PH is a logarithmic scale...this is not meaningful precision.
Yep it's more for trending. pH probes trend to drift slowly and in one direction in my experience, so it's still valuable as something that can tell you if something is wrong (e.g. your kalkwasser drip ran out, your CaRx ran out of CO2, a pump died and your sump is getting stagnant, the pH of your new salt is crazy, time to open a window etc.)I am using Milwaukees right now, and have used Aperas in the past as well.
My experience wasn't too different, probes were typically off by .1-.15 when calibrated. But when we are talking about a typical range of say, 7.8-8.3 or so, being off by .1 or .15 is a variance of 20-30% within that range. And when you consider that PH is a logarithmic scale...this is not meaningful precision. I also found that my probes were off pretty much any time I calibrated them - within a week or two, or a month or two, there was very little consistent behavior. I have two identical Milwaukee probes right now, purchased at the same time, that can be calibrated successfully at the same time and show different readings sitting in my sump immediately afterward. The first thing I do after seeing a puzzling swing in PH is recalibrate the probe, and my PH almost always falls back into the "typical" range for me.
I like having PH probes, to be clear - the information is still useful when looking at trends after making changes, for example I could see an "improvement" in my PH when I ran my skimmer line outside. Like most testing in our hobby, the absolute value is not entirely trustworthy, but the relative value is useful information. So worrying about PH that is too low or too high or not high enough is simply not worth it, IMO! it also makes it difficult to compare your PH to anybody else, unless you know exactly what equipment they are using, when it was calibrated last, and so on. Yet people stress over this constantly!
Another thing that considerably reduced my PH anxiety was understanding that at a given temperature, there is a constant mathematical relationship between Alk, CO2 level, and PH:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...wMRMZ1R3xS6ii2mG4uHs/htmlview?pli=1&usp=gmail
This is kind of why I mostly just pay attention to my CO2 meter 90% of the time. It's not scientifically accurate either, but just gives me a heads up if I've had the windows closed for too long or whatever. It's a better leading indicator. I pretty much manage PH by ensuring there's enough fresh air in my home. Anything else is either a big swing in alk, or some kind of large CO2 production/consumption event happening in the tank.
Edit - some good reading from RHF on PH: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/ph-and-the-reef-aquarium.7/
I am using Milwaukees right now, and have used Aperas in the past as well.
My experience wasn't too different, probes were typically off by .1-.15 when calibrated. But when we are talking about a typical range of say, 7.8-8.3 or so, being off by .1 or .15 is a variance of 20-30% within that range. And when you consider that PH is a logarithmic scale...this is not meaningful precision. I also found that my probes were off pretty much any time I calibrated them - within a week or two, or a month or two, there was very little consistent behavior. I have two identical Milwaukee probes right now, purchased at the same time, that can be calibrated successfully at the same time and show different readings sitting in my sump immediately afterward. The first thing I do after seeing a puzzling swing in PH is recalibrate the probe, and my PH almost always falls back into the "typical" range for me.
I like having PH probes, to be clear - the information is still useful when looking at trends after making changes, for example I could see an "improvement" in my PH when I ran my skimmer line outside. Like most testing in our hobby, the absolute value is not entirely trustworthy, but the relative value is useful information. So worrying about PH that is too low or too high or not high enough is simply not worth it, IMO! it also makes it difficult to compare your PH to anybody else, unless you know exactly what equipment they are using, when it was calibrated last, and so on. Yet people stress over this constantly!
Another thing that considerably reduced my PH anxiety was understanding that at a given temperature, there is a constant mathematical relationship between Alk, CO2 level, and PH:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...wMRMZ1R3xS6ii2mG4uHs/htmlview?pli=1&usp=gmail
This is kind of why I mostly just pay attention to my CO2 meter 90% of the time. It's not scientifically accurate either, but just gives me a heads up if I've had the windows closed for too long or whatever. It's a better leading indicator. I pretty much manage PH by ensuring there's enough fresh air in my home. Anything else is either a big swing in alk, or some kind of large CO2 production/consumption event happening in the tank.
Edit - some good reading from RHF on PH: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/ph-and-the-reef-aquarium.7/
I don't consider that a hobby grade device. In fact, Milwaukee is known for many of their lab grade devices. I would view yours as an entry level lab grade probe.It's application does not strike me as a low quality hobby grade device, but I am sure there is more expensive equipment to measure PH.
This is interesting. I believe the reason I care mainly/only about PH (and temp) on a daily basis is because I decided to go with the most basic APEX set up (not an APEX fan). If you have more data points, such as Alk levels etc, you leverage all of this to come to a conclusion if there is a problem with the tank that needs fixing, and not only PH. I found though that ‘just’ looking at PH gives me the peace of mind I need (or triggers actions) without needing a more complicated setup. So having this fairly accurate is more important to me, but I generally care about trends only. I do have a CO2 meter too though since this has the single biggest impact on my PH parameter in my opinion.
Coming back to the probes , and referencing these being hobby grade: Chris Meckley / ACI Aquaculture uses the device below (which I also have). I just realized this has a different probe which cost slightly more, but is made for this device (apparantly). It's application does not strike me as a low quality hobby grade device, but I am sure there is more expensive equipment to measure PH.
I am also using this CO2 meter:
Great...now you guys have convinced me to have to get a CO2 meter. Thanks a lot fellas...I use the exact same CO2 monitor. Mine reads a little high (I take it outside occasionally to check its calibration) but it's been pretty good otherwise.
Great...now you guys have convinced me to have to get a CO2 meter. Thanks a lot fellas...
Haaa haaa
Also...it does appear that my alkalinity is dropping consistently everyday. By the time my water change comes around, I'm hovering around 7.0. The way I see it, it's another reason to get my kalk dosing figured out so it's not spiking after every WC
Crank up the kalk!
I do water changes every 3 weeks - and let my alk slowly fall over the course of this period. My salt usually mixes in the 9ish range (or higher, depending on what I have) and always boosts alk up after a WC. Mine goes from 8.5ish to 7.5ish over the course of 3 weeks.
No real microscope, but I have a cheapo USB style type I can try to find.Oof. Looks like Dino’s to me…almost certain. Do you have a microscope? A positive ID can help with plan of attack. My guess is probably ostreopsis, in which case a UV is the fastest and most certain method to clear them up.
Does it clear up after lights out, and come back after lights go on?
Also, let's assume it is this species...How would I get UV effectively installed into this type of tank? I believe I could order the IM specific model, but is there another option I could attempt to use?My guess is probably ostreopsis, in which case a UV is the fastest and most certain method to clear them up.
Oh damn! That's what it was. Thanks!I have that gray out issue occasionally. I believe the fix is to click the other drop down and hit one of those things.
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