Derek's 225g - Magnifica / SPS Reef

[derek_SR]

My guess is that high spread lights like Radion panels nail the front and cause crazy algae growth while the 90 degree reflectors on the ReeFis prevent growth. When my lights were angled slightly forward due to me waiting for my tnutz, the growth was insane (had to clean the glass twice a day). Now that I have them more vertical and slightly back, I can go almost a week without cleaning.

Before you take down the ReeFis, you could run Telegraham's file. The color differences are due to the overall # of diodes (ReeFis have way more violet and UVA than Radions so you kind of have to multiply the wattage of the LEDs by the % output to get an estimate or reduce their output to match colors). Then drive the royal blues harder. This is something not super clear to hobbyists that 10% "white" is not the same thing as 10% "blue" for any light really.

View attachment 67978

Absolutely is the case that more spread really accelerates glass algae - I noticed this right away when adding the helix bars, for example, and it's the most unfortunate tradeoff when seeking more spread. But it's a necessary evil to some extent.

This file is telegrahams imitation of the AB+ spectrum for Reefi?

 

[Darkxerox]

Absolutely is the case that more spread really accelerates glass algae - I noticed this right away when adding the helix bars, for example, and it's the most unfortunate tradeoff when seeking more spread. But it's a necessary evil to some extent.

This file is telegrahams imitation of the AB+ spectrum for Reefi?

Yeah it's an "eye match" to his GHL Mitras which have been calibrated to match the AB+ spectrum. Just based on what looks close to it since the lights sit next to each other on his tank.

 

[Kensington Reefer]

@derek_SR
You’re tank is amazing!

 

[H2OPlayar]

Everything is going really well with the tank right now - so of course I'm going to make a major change to one of the most critical inputs.

If it ain't broke...time to mess with it!

 

[dangalang]

Absolutely is the case that more spread really accelerates glass algae - I noticed this right away when adding the helix bars, for example, and it's the most unfortunate tradeoff when seeking more spread. But it's a necessary evil to some extent.

This file is telegrahams imitation of the AB+ spectrum for Reefi?

If your Reefis are still up, can you load his settings and compare to your Radion in the sump?

 

[MichaelB]

Are these ase8 lights going to give you enough par for your sps?

I tested a single one over new 40gallon just filled with tap water for test purpose. I couldn't get par to go over 250, with the meter more than 3 inches under the water.

Granted i think i had it turned to max, output for the light. I couldn't get over 100 par on bottom of the tank either.

Didn't know what the heck to do with all the various different light colors, so I j Didn't mess with anything beyond hitting sps, and moving intensity to max.

 

[derek_SR]

Are these ase8 lights going to give you enough par for your sps?

I tested a single one over new 40gallon just filled with tap water for test purpose. I couldn't get par to go over 250, with the meter more than 3 inches under the water.

…what’s 6 times 250?

Plus four 6ft helix bars. Should be plenty of PAR

 

[MichaelB]

…what’s 6 times 250?

Plus four 6ft helix bars. Should be plenty of PAR

So the spread of them stacks where the point of coverage will overlap between 2 of the lights? I also assume with 6 the goal is to provide enough overlap that there isn’t any serious drop of in par in any one section of the tank.

The bars you mention adds increase as well. Just following along in a general sense and learning from how your working your lighting.

Kinda why I'm playing with 2 of the newer kessils 360x on the 40gallon I have, intending to keep that one sps mainly, big one will be mix reef so won't need any crazy addtional lights for a while. Figure I pick up a extra 360x here and there as good deals emerge with zero need to rush to get things i don't already have.

 

[derek_SR]

So the spread of them stacks where the point of coverage will overlap between 2 of the lights? I also assume with 6 the goal is to provide enough overlap that there isn’t any serious drop of in par in any one section of the tank.

The bars you mention adds increase as well. Just following along in a general sense and learning from how your working your lighting.

Kinda why I'm playing with 2 of the newer kessils 360x on the 40gallon I have, intending to keep that one sps mainly, big one will be mix reef so won't need any crazy addtional lights for a while. Figure I pick up an extra 360x here and there as good deals emerge with zero need to rush to get things i don't already have.

Yeah running so many lights is really about the spread, and there’s so much overlap you also get insane PAR. I only run the Reefis at about 30% and still get 700 PAR in the peak spots.

 

[derek_SR]

Coral photo dump -

SCOP

Manila Spy

CB Flaming Unicorn I picked up from @Arvin R starting to color back up. Really neat coral!

A nice MC mille I picked up randomly from AC this weekend

The two biggest colonies in the tank locked in an eternal battle

Shitty pic, but lots of acros in one shot - SCOP, WD, merlin's staff, ganulosa, cala cali, blue stag, vivid confetti, the vinh, hawkins echinata

master yoda



Also I did a complete overhaul of my light hanging cables after the "accident" a few weeks ago. I bought my own cable and terminated the ends and replaced the hooks in the ceiling with something way sturdier:

Haven't added the A8SE to the main tank yet but did build a quick rack to put 2 of them over the frag tank:

Full system with the new, cleaner lighting cables. I was telling @RandyC over text how I'm surprised more people don't hang their lights, seems like the way to go:

 

[ReyDeFarts]

I'm surprised more people don't hang their lights, seems like the way to go:

I'm currently working on that plan... what type of cable did you end up going with? Double crimped?

 

[derek_SR]

I'm currently working on that plan... what type of cable did you end up going with? Double crimped?

1/16" - I actually just got this cheap chinese kit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ8QNFVY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I normally hate buying cheap tools but this one is pretty decent, and the 375lb test strength of the cable should be more than enough. I also put in a much heavier gauge stainless eye hook into the ceiling and on the actual light rack end. This allows me to "tilt" the entire light rack one way or another for easy access when reaching into the tank and cleaning glass...and the peace of mind that I won't have another failure like last time.

I used a laser level placed in the center of the tank when I originally set it up to measure and mark the ceiling. Happy to loan it out if that helps!

 

[derek_SR]

Here's what I mean by tilting the rack to work in the tank, very easy to do:

 

[CaseyP]

I normally hate buying cheap tools but this one is pretty decent, and the 375lb test strength of the cable should be more than enough. I also put in a much heavier gauge stainless eye hook into the ceiling and on the actual light rack end. This allows me to "tilt" the entire light rack one way or another for easy access when reaching into the tank and cleaning glass

Trying to figure out how that works. Is it an additional hook that you can wrap the wire around to shorten the length and tilt it? Access was probably the biggest gripe I had with a hanging fixture. I would manually adjust the wire in the cable lock whenever I needed access but it was a pain in the ass. I also played around with the idea of installing a winch in the ceiling to electronically lower and lift the rack but I didn't have attic access above the tank.

I do agree though that hanging/suspended is the way to go. Now I don't like the look of light arms mounted on the tank.

 

[ReyDeFarts]

Happy to loan it out if that helps!

Just ordered a kit. Need it sooner than when we would likely see each other. Thank you though.

I still need to figure out how to attach the wire to some of the lights though. That's where I am a little stuck.

 

[derek_SR]

Just ordered a kit. Need it sooner than when we would likely see each other. Thank you though.

I still need to figure out how to attach the wire to some of the lights though. That's where I am a little stuck.

What lights are you using? Are you building a light rack?

 

[derek_SR]

Trying to figure out how that works. Is it an additional hook that you can wrap the wire around to shorten the length and tilt it? Access was probably the biggest gripe I had with a hanging fixture. I would manually adjust the wire in the cable lock whenever I needed access but it was a pain in the ass. I also played around with the idea of installing a winch in the ceiling to electronically lower and lift the rack but I didn't have attic access above the tank.

I do agree though that hanging/suspended is the way to go. Now I don't like the look of light arms mounted on the tank.

No, the cables are completely static. There only 2 of them though - they each connect in a "U" shape through two eye hooks on the light, with each end connected to the ceiling. Then as you tilt the rack it just sort of slides up and down on the eye hooks on each side. No of those obnoxious length-adjustable cables or any other funny business.

Here's one cable in the foreground that should explain -

 

[RandyC]

This is the tool I bought years ago.

Amazon.com

 

[psidriven]

I also played around with the idea of installing a winch in the ceiling to electronically lower and lift the rack but I didn't have attic access above the tank.

If your ceiling is high enough, another option I saw online is to screw the electric standing table legs to the ceiling and mount your light rack to it.

 

[derek_SR]

Woke up this morning and tested my Alk w/ Hanna and it was 4.9dkh! I've been in the 5.5 range before but never this low, and I think it's been low for at least a couple of weeks.

I started dosing Vodka about a month ago to combat very high nitrates (75+, beyond the range of my Hanna). This was only partly to lower nitrates and mostly to see if I noticed any difference w/ the bacteria that supposedly feeds corals as a result, and the high nitrates were just the space I needed to do it.

I immediately noticed an increase in Alk...which apparently is a function of nitrate being consumed, so I chalked it up to the carbon dosing and started lowering my alk dosing accordingly. These weird alk readings continued and I dramatically cut back on dosing. To make a long story short, my Alkatronic has been having issues and giving bad readings, so I've significantly under-dosed Alk the last few weeks and here we are at 4.9.

Haven't noticed a single thing with the tank...other than the steady loss of PH, which is now also explained. Alkatronic is now giving a Code3 error (something to do with the reagent/reagent pump) so I need to investigate that. First real issues I've had with it in 2-3 years.