Difference in ballast...
- Thread starter xcaret
- Start date
sfsuphysics
Supporting Member
I think you thought right.
finalphaze987
Supporting Member
they are all e-ballast.
i read in a radium post (RC) that lumatek and galaxy ballast will make adjustments to wattage drawn according to the bulb , where as an icecap wont which is why radiums give more of a blue hue on an icecap.
i read in a radium post (RC) that lumatek and galaxy ballast will make adjustments to wattage drawn according to the bulb , where as an icecap wont which is why radiums give more of a blue hue on an icecap.
finalphaze987
Supporting Member
tuberider said:
Would the new ones be suitable for a 250w radium? Im ready to make the the jump to 20k and have been looking @ the galaxy ballast. If an icecap can do the same, i'd rather go that route.
xcaret
Guest
Old as in the light blue? I assume.
The select-a-watt feature on the newer Lumatek? makes them attractive yet I have not seen one in person; they have this HQI feature which is just to, can I call it "Overdrive" the bulb as with Mag/HQI do on some bulbs? It's something nice to see on the market, for example the 250/400/HQI all you have to do to upgrade/downgrade lighting is unscrew, screw, turn the switch !!
I'd jump on a Lumatek 150/175/250/HQI if I could but $money wise is not such a good idea right now.
Patrick I have both IceCap and Galaxy if you want to look at them side by side on Radium bulbs but the bulbs have barely 20 minutes on them so they are not even broken in so no true color yet.
I'm torn in between 175 or 250; makes sense to go 175 for a tank that has just been up and running three weeks with very few corals due to an unfortunate event but Radiums are not available in that wattage and I just like the way they looked over the tanks I witnessed so I got loaded with Radiums.
Last thing I want to do at home is placing equipment just to later take it down/replace because an upgrade surge in me. The Lumatek seems a pretty good choice since is just dialing the knob.
The select-a-watt feature on the newer Lumatek? makes them attractive yet I have not seen one in person; they have this HQI feature which is just to, can I call it "Overdrive" the bulb as with Mag/HQI do on some bulbs? It's something nice to see on the market, for example the 250/400/HQI all you have to do to upgrade/downgrade lighting is unscrew, screw, turn the switch !!
I'd jump on a Lumatek 150/175/250/HQI if I could but $money wise is not such a good idea right now.
Patrick I have both IceCap and Galaxy if you want to look at them side by side on Radium bulbs but the bulbs have barely 20 minutes on them so they are not even broken in so no true color yet.
I'm torn in between 175 or 250; makes sense to go 175 for a tank that has just been up and running three weeks with very few corals due to an unfortunate event but Radiums are not available in that wattage and I just like the way they looked over the tanks I witnessed so I got loaded with Radiums.
Last thing I want to do at home is placing equipment just to later take it down/replace because an upgrade surge in me. The Lumatek seems a pretty good choice since is just dialing the knob.
xcaret
Guest
Found this:
"Electronic Ballast vs E-Ballast
The Lumatek ballast is an E-ballast, unlike other brands on the market, which are actually electronic ballasts. E-ballasts use a microprocessor similar to a component found in a personal computer. This microprocessor allows the E-ballast to run either halide or sodium lamps, to switch between 50 and 60 hertz, to make adjustments for the type of bulb it is running, and even to compensate for degraded lamps by increasing its output. Electronic ballasts have a constant output and cannot make adjustments or changes. They will light a MH lamp; but quickly cause it to degrade, thus shortening the lamp`s lifespan.
Lumatek ballasts are programmed to allow for a `soft start` and do not require an initial power surge to start the ballast. This allows end users to start multiple ballasts simultaneously without blowing a breaker. The ballast will also detect a short in the wiring or a defective lamp. It simply shuts itself off, letting the user know that something is wrong. This should be kept in mind if you have a customer whose ballast keeps shutting down. In most cases, there is a problem with the output wiring. "
"Electronic Ballast vs E-Ballast
The Lumatek ballast is an E-ballast, unlike other brands on the market, which are actually electronic ballasts. E-ballasts use a microprocessor similar to a component found in a personal computer. This microprocessor allows the E-ballast to run either halide or sodium lamps, to switch between 50 and 60 hertz, to make adjustments for the type of bulb it is running, and even to compensate for degraded lamps by increasing its output. Electronic ballasts have a constant output and cannot make adjustments or changes. They will light a MH lamp; but quickly cause it to degrade, thus shortening the lamp`s lifespan.
Lumatek ballasts are programmed to allow for a `soft start` and do not require an initial power surge to start the ballast. This allows end users to start multiple ballasts simultaneously without blowing a breaker. The ballast will also detect a short in the wiring or a defective lamp. It simply shuts itself off, letting the user know that something is wrong. This should be kept in mind if you have a customer whose ballast keeps shutting down. In most cases, there is a problem with the output wiring. "
finalphaze987
Supporting Member
the lumateks seem promising but i kinda want to see it in person w/ a radium. How do you like your galaxy? they seem good from what ive read, but seem to have problems around the 2 year mark.
i've seen the older icecap ballast + radium in person next to an M80 ballast and preffered the color of M80, but according to the kill-a-watt the M80 was pulling around 300w.Aqua medic makes the M80 he was using.
i've seen the older icecap ballast + radium in person next to an M80 ballast and preffered the color of M80, but according to the kill-a-watt the M80 was pulling around 300w.Aqua medic makes the M80 he was using.
xcaret
Guest
I've seen the Radium on mag ballasts and so far is the best glow but on people's tanks with plenty of hours burned on the bulbs; I have just fired the bulbs for a few minutes in the basement.
My problem at home is space; an electronic ballast has a small footprint compared with the magnetic ones so I basically ditched the idea of a Mag-HQI.
I have the Galaxy buried in the closet; have to dig it out to run it again. I've been on the upgrade phase for about two years, getting my equipment little by little; now the tank is there and I'm still debating on which ballast to use...
My problem at home is space; an electronic ballast has a small footprint compared with the magnetic ones so I basically ditched the idea of a Mag-HQI.
I have the Galaxy buried in the closet; have to dig it out to run it again. I've been on the upgrade phase for about two years, getting my equipment little by little; now the tank is there and I'm still debating on which ballast to use...
xcaret
Guest
screebo said:How can one determine if they are buying a new generation Ice Cap? P/N difference? Appearance?tuberider said:
I'm on a mission for a 250 watt electronic ballast ASAP.....I hope Neptune stocks themI'll know if an hour or so....
Think when "Old" are mentioned, must be the light blue ARO type of ballast; the "New" are more of navy blue in color and are encased in extruded Aluminum.
I just placed the canopy on my tank today and fired up the Galaxy; can't compare against the IceCap because the plugs are SLS bummer !!
If you are in a bad emergency LMK too either FC or SF got you covered...