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Gimmito's 450 gal L-shaped tank

Gresh,

The more I think about it, if the light rack swings out or horizontally that would be the best choice. I really liked Steve Weast's light rack, he mentioned using a sliding rail system (made by Stanley and available from HD).
If I could slide it out 4' that would be cool.
 
If it slides 4' off the tank, is there a place to secure the rail to the ceiling? 4' span will need some support IME.

So for linear actuators if you want a 4' extension, you're looking at a 8' linear actuator (super expensive). For something like this I would think a modified light mover would be best. It would take a little modding, or you'd have to turn it off once it got into place. They are also pretty darn slow.

I'll have to think this one through. Gotta get Steve W and Chris W (H20engineer) on the horn to ask them a few things. Got access to Shawn W. now as well so I will ask him.
 
i think his best idea would be rolllers on a rail he can slide in and out... almost set up a system like an aluminum garage door......

he can support the rails from the ceiling in the garage, and i think it would not be to heavy to slide out the 4 400watt MH and the rack.....
 
It won't be super heavy but a 4' unsupported track may buckle under its own weight.

The system you describe is exactly what I just said, accept mine is a bit more aimed at his project :) It works like a garage door opener on a track, but it powers itself and is not pulled by another motor.

61101-B.jpg


FWIW I need some aluminum welded for my light rack. Do any of your guys do TIG? I could go SS I guess..
 
rygh said:
Seems like the rear of the track being supported by the ceiling would be an issue with the fire-doors.
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Well given any penetration into the garage with no fire door is against code, I doubt a little ceiling penetration with some crews would be any issue what so ever, especially if you leave the rock between the wood and the strap.
 
GreshamH said:
rygh said:
Seems like the rear of the track being supported by the ceiling would be an issue with the fire-doors.
Click to expand...

Well given any penetration into the garage with no fire door is against code, I doubt a little ceiling penetration with some crews would be any issue what so ever, especially if you leave the rock between the wood and the strap.
Click to expand...

Gresh,

I think Mark meant that I can't have a long rail going from the tank into the garage ala Steve Weast's tank b/c of the fire rated doors. Steve got around that one, but it would never would have passed code. ;)
 
well have it signed off then we add the rail for easy service...... make light rack stationary til you have it all signed off then we modify doors a lil to fit the rails coming out,LOL
 
What about going UP?
Meaning, raise the lights straight up above the water, into the ceiling area.
You really only need 20" or so between the water and bottom of lights to work in the tank.
(Assuming some insertable boards to crawl around on)
Depending on where the ceiling joists and wall header are, you may be able to
cut out some holes for the halide reflectors, and squeeze enough space for that.

You can also make the track temporary.
Meaning, you open the doors, then clip a segment of track on that sticks out into garage.
So you have permanent brackets from the ceiling coming down,
but the track itself needs to clip in to those brackets every time.

Also, think about 2 modes : Partial access, and full access.
You probably need partial access daily/weekly.
But that could simply be leveraging up the front of the lights 6" or so, to get an arm in,
or some simple tools.
You only need full access every few months or so.
So that could be the complex track setup / or some other idea.

Fun engineering puzzle. H)
 
I have seen it in person. Jim was kind enough to give me some coral and a tour.
But I did not peek up under the top enough to really remember the details.

Agree, may not be an ideal way. Hence the idea of a simple partial access, and
a more complex painful full access.
 
rygh said:
What about going UP?
Meaning, raise the lights straight up above the water, into the ceiling area.
You really only need 20" or so between the water and bottom of lights to work in the tank.
(Assuming some insertable boards to crawl around on)
Depending on where the ceiling joists and wall header are, you may be able to
cut out some holes for the halide reflectors, and squeeze enough space for that.

You can also make the track temporary.
Meaning, you open the doors, then clip a segment of track on that sticks out into garage.
So you have permanent brackets from the ceiling coming down,
but the track itself needs to clip in to those brackets every time.

Also, think about 2 modes : Partial access, and full access.
You probably need partial access daily/weekly.
But that could simply be leveraging up the front of the lights 6" or so, to get an arm in,
or some simple tools.
You only need full access every few months or so.
So that could be the complex track setup / or some other idea.

Fun engineering puzzle. H)
Click to expand...

Mark,

There's a glue lam over the tank, so axcess into the ceiling is not possible. I think a temporary track in the garage that would fold down and connect to the track in the garage would be a good idea. Of course actually making it is another story. I have a sheet metal buddy coming over tommorow, hopefully he has some ideas.
 
gimmito said:
Thanks for all the input guys. The light rack seems to be the biggest hurdle to getting this thing done. :X
Click to expand...
Clearly we have other hurdles. :bigsmile:
Get the friggin garden hose out and fill er up dude!
Toss in some salt and some rocks and bingo.
REEF TANK! :D ;)
 
Clearly we have other hurdles. :bigsmile:
Click to expand...

Yeah...it's called a "remodel." ;)

Get the friggin garden hose out and fill er up dude!
Toss in some salt and some rocks and bingo.
REEF TANK! :D ;)
Click to expand...

I would to do that, but it will be a major pain to install lights/light racks with a tank full of water. :O
 
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