Cali Kid Corals

Glass buffing

Zero Gravitas

Supporting Member
Hey everybody, looking for some advice on glass polishing kits that use water as the lubricant. I have an orbital sander and I’m looking for a kit that I guess would gradually use finer and finer pads until hopefully I would achieve a crystal clear used aquarium… I see that some use water as a lubricant and I was thinking this would be ideal as it would be easier to clean the tank after. I have tried combinations of lemon and vinegar to no avail. This is a 10-year-old tank and has some serious, what I’m guessing, hard water deposits. Anybody have any luck and expertise with this process?


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Do you know if it is starphire/low iron glass? May not be worth the effort if it's regular glass...much harder and a lot less expensive
 
It is a 10-year-old oceanic tank and the glass is about a half inch thick it looks like, maybe a little less. Probably more like a third of an inch I’m guessing.


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I’m not sure what the tank is made out of. I’m guessing since the glass is so thick that it’s probably regular glass. I don’t mind spending the time polishing it for a couple days. I’ve got an orbital sander that I’m pretty handy with, and I could use the exercise. There are no serious scratches either, just 10 years of hard water buildup I’m guessing. The kits don’t look too expensive online, and I was just hoping to get some input before I invested. I am trying to keep this project as low-cost as possible as per my girlfriends request…


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If it's actually hard water, diluted muriatic acid (or heck, even a strong vinegar mixture) should clean it up, no need for buffing.

If it's actually etched... definitely a lot of work. I've seen some threads that talk about needing to make sure to feather out any buffed/polished areas out to the unpolished areas to avoid "lensing" effects in the glass.
 
Thank you! Researched that online and I see that that’s probably a much better method to take off hard water stains then buffing. Glad I asked.


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Make sure to protect the silicone seams if you use really harsh chemicals.

You have to remove all the coraline and other deposits before polishing, or crud may end up scratching
the glass more than you fix it.
 
It is a glass tank right? Not acrylic?

Oceanic are all glass, some the front is low iron; specially the Tech line.

@Zero Gravitas if you decide to polish the glass, make sure plenty of water is being used and wear a proper mask.
You can treat glass ground that small like you would asbestos.
An orbital sander I doubt will do the job, I believe the glass restoration techs use more of variable speed grinders/orbital polishers.
 
Thank you all for your input, I Have decided to embark, with some trepidation, upon the use of muriatic acid. I go to task with the expertise of many Google research hours... I have gloves, mask, and goggles. Wish me luck, if you don’t hear from me again you know what happened.


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Hope you're using proper ventilation and a respirator, the fumes from muriatic acid are no joke. Don't get me wrong it's great stuff for dissolving carbonates but it's not like stuff you can just put on a sponge and rub across a surface. I'd use vinegar first, and if you can lay it on the side, put some paper towels on an area, and pour vinegar directly onto the towels. Then wipe up and get a straight razor blade and scrape at it. If it doesn't come off with that, junk the tank. Not worth the time and effort to restore it if you have to polish glass... at least IMO.
 
I hear you. These are indeed drastic measures. I have full respirator, not just a white mask. Gloves that go up to my shoulders and eye protection. The fish tank is in my garage so I will open the garage door and all the windows. I will dilute the acid as suggested on what appears to be the consensus of four or five reputable sources. I guess I’m going to have to tape off the silicone I just re-did too… I have a spiritual connection with this fish tank, I’m going to do what ever it takes.
Lol


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1) Citric acid isn't that expensive, and it's available on Amazon, or get a pound from my bag for $5. Put the tank in an orientation where you can puddle water on the surface you want to clean, pour in a half pound of citric acid, and then wipe away the calcium after a day or so. Not much of a safety risk, no fume risk, and if it's calcium based it'll take it off. Won't take anywhere near a half pound, but the stuff is really cheap so why not? Cleans up with soap and water (or really just water).

2) Don't use CLR, that stuff fogs glass (guess how I know).

3) BTW, don't leave anything you don't want rusted within 10' of the HCl while you have it open, that stuff travels and rust randomly appears for the next while. Fortunately I got to watch someone else make that mistake instead of doing it myself.

4) If it really is etched you *might* be able to buff it out with cerium oxide or you might be able to locate one of the more exotic 3M discs designed for glass work. I'd offer up one of mine but they're all in a box half way across the country. Don't overheat the glass.

5) As someone who's spent several dozen hours getting rather serious scratches out of both glass and acrylic aquariums if you do come across a decent scratch you want out of a glass tank don't bother. For the time it takes, unless it's on a full SPS reef you don't want to tear down, you're better off getting a minimum wage job and saving up for a new tank. It'll take less time than trying to learn to get a decently deep scratch out of a glass tank, and then doing the work to get it looking flawless.
 
Here is a video of a guy cleaning his tank with muriatic acid. Let me just apologize in advance. He is not a gifted orator. I was put to sleep an hour early last night inadvertently...


He is applying the acid pure directly onto the tank and then neutralizing it with a baking soda solution.
 
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Guy aerosolized muriatic acid with a spray bottle... not exactly my first choice in doing this, then again I've seen someone use one of those garden sprayers with muriatic acid to clean out a water container (I think it was Melevsreef too), that's even more dangerous due to the pressure those things are under.

much easier and safer method if you're going to use muratic acid is to put down some paper towels, pour the acid onto the towels then stick them against the acrylic, it will hold on, and you can just wait it out... plus doing that indoors... egads, sure the final result is good but man.
 
Will it work - yes.
Things to worry about:
1) Breathing too many fumes - do it outside.
2) Getting on skim - wear gloves.
3) Getting in eyes - wear glasses, and don't spray it around.
4) Damaging silicone aquariums seams - see below.

Most people forget about #4. Yes, strong acid DOES decompose silicone glue!
If you do it wrong, you weaken your tank, potentially very badly.
I would suggest you put an inch of water in the tank, and add a lot of baking soda to that.
So as acid mess drops in, it gets neutralized.
You may also want to tape over vertical joints.
 
Thank you so much! I was worried about that, and it is the only reason I haven’t done it yet. I just re-siliconed…


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