Jestersix

Heater issue

Is the heater on 24 hours a day? If it is, then you know it’s just underpowered, but I wouldn’t think that’s the case. 75 Watts seems like a good size for 20 gallons. Fish and corals do tolerate colder water better than warmer but I can understand that you want it warmer than it is.

Since there’s a discrepancy between the heater and the thermometer you may want to try a third thermometer so you can make sure it’s not an error with the other thermometer. The heater is likely the problem but it’s good to make sure.
 
I was having better accuracy when it was in one of the side chambers of my all in one innovative marine 20. But I decided to fill that chamber with marine pure balls and put the heater in the center with the return pumps. Does the high flow vs the low flow effect the heating?


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Well I wanted to get a second heater and thermostat. So guess I'll get one soon and do some trials to see what could be the issue.


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Run your heaters through a ranco controller then just turn your heater on higher.


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so, apex jr seems like the lowest tier of the apex controllers, but would work for my tank.

temp
ph
Salinity

any other things for a controller that would be recommended to have?
think this would also track my temperature throughout the day and correct my issue.
 
Apex jr is perfect for those things and especially for controlling two heaters in the tank for you. I actually think it's one of the best bargains in reefing as it's expandable as your needs grow. The only caveat to it these days is it won't run the forthcoming Alk monitor.
 
jorahx4 said:
so, apex jr seems like the lowest tier of the apex controllers, but would work for my tank.

temp
ph
Salinity

any other things for a controller that would be recommended to have?
think this would also track my temperature throughout the day and correct my issue.
Click to expand...

Bear in mind that the Jr can only have 7 modules. PH and Salinity are already 2. Once you get the hang of it, modules add up fast. FMK (flow), ATK (ato), VDM (0-10v), WXM (Ecotech), LDK (Leak), EB8, DOS (doser), WAV (wavemaker pump) etc

I would suggest you start looking at the 2016 Apex instead, there are reasonably priced used ones out there. That way you future proof your purchase.


The upcoming Trident (Alk/Ca/Mg monitor) is only compatible with the 2016 Apex.


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just learned that the heater can be calibrated. mine is probably not correct. next to start some trials to get it set correctly.
 
I use the Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm 75W heater and it is incredibly accurate and consistent. Temp stays between 78-79. I have yet to see it waver beyond that. BRS has a video on heater testing and the neo-therms came out as most accurate. Something to consider maybe?
 
I know this is an old topic (I was ready to reply!) but if you're worried if the accuracy of your heater see if it is in fact still on when set to 77 (or whatever temp) yet your Apex (or whatever controller) says it's only 75. If it is on 24/7, it very well is an issue of too much energy leaving the tank and not enough going in, just get another heater, brand doesn't matter (except perhaps it's lasting power) heat is heat, a 100W Jebao will put the same energy into your tank as a 100W Eheim... just the Jebao might put other things into your tank too :D
 
Oakland Evan said:
Been using this controller for over a year without any issues and have 2 other thermometers in my tank to double and triple check its accuracy. Seemed like the cheapest option to control any heater.

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Itc-308-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B011296704?ie=UTF8&dpID=41z-V1+9YgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_
Click to expand...
I've been looking at that as well, and thinking about getting one mostly because the Ranco's they have on Amazon do not ship Prime fast :D (they might send it via 2 day shipping, but it'll take 3-5 days before it gets shipped)

But my biggest worry is I would use this for my beefy 1000W heater, and while yeah it says it can handle it when their specs are at the upper limit I do worry about continuous current draw versus periodic.
 
sfsuphysics said:
I've been looking at that as well, and thinking about getting one mostly because the Ranco's they have on Amazon do not ship Prime fast :D (they might send it via 2 day shipping, but it'll take 3-5 days before it gets shipped)

But my biggest worry is I would use this for my beefy 1000W heater, and while yeah it says it can handle it when their specs are at the upper limit I do worry about continuous current draw versus periodic.
Click to expand...

Well, you could have the Ranco/Any controller control a separate very heavy duty relay.
https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RKJE652PDZC1B0SNSP70
Of course, that adds another point of failure...

Also be careful of your main electrical circuit. You are getting up there on a normal 15A breaker.
 
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