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HELP! MY TANK IS CRASHING!

Kensington Reefer said:
moving stuff around stresses them even more
just change the water

+1 Just keeping changing the water until it becomes stable.

Also when you use chemical treatments be sure to turn your skimmer down, because it will foam up like mad until all the treatment has been removed. You also said your test kits were old or expired, I would strongly advise you to replace them with something dependable. You cant really get anything under control, if your water test are incorrect.

Good Luck.
 
Kensington Reefer said:
moving stuff around stresses them even more
just change the water

I thought about the stress factor, but I saw more and more guts gathering around the sides of the heads quickly and I got worried. Once I moved it to the 14 all of the guts retracted back and it looks a world better.

Currently, I have the two airstones running along with fresh carbon, new filter floss, a skimmer (which hasn't pulled anything else out) and I've changed about 20 gallons of water total since 3:00 PM.
 
Plumstr8 said:
Kensington Reefer said:
moving stuff around stresses them even more
just change the water

+1 Just keeping changing the water until it becomes stable.

Also when you use chemical treatments be sure to turn your skimmer down, because it will foam up like mad until all the treatment has been removed. You also said your test kits were old or expired, I would strongly advise you to replace them with something dependable. You cant really get anything under control, if your water test are incorrect.

Good Luck.

I just need to replace the Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia and pH. The API pH test kit has worked very well for me for three years, so I think I'll get another one of those. I'll get Salifert for Nitrate, Nitrite and Ammonia. :)
 
what_dogs_hear.jpg
 
A lot of people actually have given up on trying to help Matthew.

I, on the other hand, keep an eye on him because I don't want to have bad dreams about fish and corals taking revenge on reefers.
 
I agree with iCon. Antoginizing him isn't going to solve the tank's issues.

Matthew you have a lot of work ahead of you with water changes etc. Write down what folks have said and tape it next to the tank and follow it. I can assure you it is solid advice that has been given.

It is a slooowwww method to fix the problem, but I can guarantee you it works. This hobby is not about instant gratification - if that is what you are looking for this hobby may not be the right fit for you.
 
Thanks for all the help. When I finish my current WC, it will be 30 gallons of water that has been changed. All of the smaller species of shrooms look great, however my fuzzy mushrooms still aren't fully open. The frogspawns are making good progress. All of the zoas are half open now. The fish are great.

I'll be changing the carbon either tomorrow or Sunday. Thanks again to everyone who gave me the advice to get me this far in the recovery of the tank. :)
 
Mr. Ugly said:
...I don't want to have bad dreams about fish and corals taking revenge on reefers.

Anyone remember the killer zombie fish from resident evil?
http://www.ign.com/videos/2009/11/04/resident-evil-darkside-chronicles-wii-zombie-fish
 
rygh said:
Mr. Ugly said:
...I don't want to have bad dreams about fish and corals taking revenge on reefers.

Anyone remember the killer zombie fish from resident evil?
http://www.ign.com/videos/2009/11/04/resident-evil-darkside-chronicles-wii-zombie-fish
:ghost: :ghost: :ghost: :O
 
Isn't chemiclean erythromycin? Thats what my memory says.

Matthew, did you run an airstone like the directions said?

In the interested of developing your saltwater thumb -

Small water changes in this kind of situation are useless. Think of it this analogy; you are sitting in a sealed room, and the CO2 has spiked and are looking quite distressed. Should we change out 10% of the air with air that matches the other parameters of the air in the room perfectly, or 75% of the air even though it doesn't quite match the current parameters of the air in the room?

More reading

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/4/short
 
Thales said:
Small water changes in this kind of situation are useless. Think of it this analogy; you are sitting in a sealed room, and the CO2 has spiked and are looking quite distressed. Should we change out 10% of the air with air that matches the other parameters of the air in the room perfectly, or 75% of the air even though it doesn't quite match the current parameters of the air in the room?

Easier analogy.
You are stuck in a car with someone and they let out a super bad fart. Do you want to crack open the window a tiny bit, or all the way?
 
Gomer said:
Thales said:
Small water changes in this kind of situation are useless. Think of it this analogy; you are sitting in a sealed room, and the CO2 has spiked and are looking quite distressed. Should we change out 10% of the air with air that matches the other parameters of the air in the room perfectly, or 75% of the air even though it doesn't quite match the current parameters of the air in the room?

Easier analogy.
You are stuck in a car with someone and they let out a super bad fart. Do you want to crack open the window a tiny bit, or all the way?
You're a member of a large popular reef forum and it becomes overrun with B/S/T posts. Do you tell your friend to post real content, or do you and your friends start your own forum?

:D
 
Thales said:
Isn't chemiclean erythromycin? Thats what my memory says.
Might contain some form of erythromycin. Manufacturer says it doesn't contain the succinate. But it still could contain other forms.

Chemiclean and at least another similar product refers to enzyme "balance" and natural cell products.

Also claims to oxidize sludge and organics.

I could believe it contains enzymes/bacteria that break down organics, an oxidizer, maybe a flocculant, and some form of erythromycin - maybe even a naturally produced one.

LD50 for Chemiclean is pretty high, iirc. So it's not some super harsh chemical.

Anybody interested in testing/analyzing some Chemiclean? Then we could make our own with meat tenderizer, erythromycin, chitosan, and oxyclean :D
 
I've used chemiclean several times in the past 8 years and I have never had a problem. something I learned while treating my african cichlids for disease is, with every medication underdose by like 20% and you won't kill anything. The reason I say this is because you really don't know exactly how much water you truly have in your system so with my tank which is 240 gallons and a 125 gallon sump which is fully stocked top and bottom. I figure I have about 240 gallons of actual water but dose my tank with all chemicals and meds as if it was 220 to 200 gallons just so I don't overdose. So far I have been very successful with breeding cichlids and growing all types of coral. As for a tank as small as yours I would just go to a LFS like aquatic collection which uses good salt to mix their water and buy it pre-mixed and change it out fast. This is sooo much easier than wasting your time on mixing water and wasting electricity and test kits and so on. I only wish I could do 40% water changes that easily. when My girls 29 gallon starts looking wierd I don't test anything and just change out 5 to 10 gallons and the next day after the water temperature stables out and everything mixes the tank looks great. Quick easy fix which cost me 10 dollars. buy premixed water and save yourself time, money, and heartache. good luck
 
Gomer said:
Thales said:
Small water changes in this kind of situation are useless. Think of it this analogy; you are sitting in a sealed room, and the CO2 has spiked and are looking quite distressed. Should we change out 10% of the air with air that matches the other parameters of the air in the room perfectly, or 75% of the air even though it doesn't quite match the current parameters of the air in the room?

Easier analogy.
You are stuck in a car with someone and they let out a super bad fart. Do you want to crack open the window a tiny bit, or all the way?

Did anyone tell him not to fart in the first place? :D
 
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