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Inkbird ITC-306a - Continuous Heating Settings

Alexander1312

Supporting Member
It would be great if someone could briefly explain what I am doing wrong with my Heater Controller and Inkbird redundancy setup.

The way I have done it in the past couple of weeks seemed to have damaged a 'hygger Saltwater Tank Titanium Tube Submersible Pinpoint Aquarium Heater with Digital Thermostat, IC Temp Controller 200 Watt' (reads now 95F while it is only 76F water temperature).

The current setup:
  • I had initially setup the Inkbird so that it would only turn off the heater controller if it exceeded 79F (target temperature 78F), i.e., protect against a potential failure of the separate heater controller.
  • The Heater controller itself was setup with the correct target temperature of 78F (which was initially very correctly factory calibrated as confirmed by Neptune and Hanna temperature readers).
  • Unfortunately, this led to an alarm at 2 am at night that signaled that the continuous heating time was exceeded as it would require the Inkbird to stay on the entire time unless there is an equipment failure. I understand there is no way to turn of the continuous heating time alarm and max time is 96h.
  • Therefore, I lowered the Inkbird setting to 75.5-78F so it would turn off the heater controller on a regular basis to not exceed the continuous heating time. Unfortunately, this continuous on and off of the heater controller unit triggered by the Inkbird seemed to have damaged it and the probe setting of the heater controller started to deteriorate gradually until this night (2:45 am again) it showed 95F while the Inkbird sent an alarm that the water was below 76F (confirmed by Neptune temperature probe and Hanna reference thermometer).
In summary, what did I do wrong with the setup above and what should I have done instead to make this setup work and achieve its objective to prevent the impact from potential equipment failure? Or are there any better ways to achieve this? Thank you!
 
If you're using redundant systems, let the first line heater controller run the heater and use the inkbird as a safety and notification system.

I think you are right, power cycling the heater controller may have caused the issue.
 
Thank you. Any more details on this setup, i.e., which devices exactly?
These are really really sturdy and I know Erin and I can't stop saying that they're a much better option than buying the cheaper units. Single stage is heater only, dual can control a chiller or fan: https://aqualogicinc.com/product/digital-temperature-controllers/ built off of a Ranco controller but with a corrosion proof probe.

Champion lighting carries them too. BRS stopped carrying them after they partnered with inkbird only.
 
These are really really sturdy and I know Erin and I can't stop saying that they're a much better option than buying the cheaper units. Single stage is heater only, dual can control a chiller or fan: https://aqualogicinc.com/product/digital-temperature-controllers/ built off of a Ranco controller but with a corrosion proof probe.

Champion lighting carries them too. BRS stopped carrying them after they partnered with inkbird only.

That looks like much better quality, thanks so much for sharing. While we are on this topic, any recommendation for a good heater? I will be returning the hygger and in the meantime go back to the aquatop titanium heater. Also, are you guys typically use a chiller over the summer? Walnut Creek does get hot, and when we bought the tank end of August, it went up to 80 F or so. Thanks again for all that great advice.
 
@JVU is out your way and might have a better idea on keeping a tank in the inland summer heat. Depending on where your tank is located (in the house, garage, etc) and if you have AC, you might not need one.

Also how big is your tank (total water volume including sump)? I've used Eheim Jagers for the last 25 years and they're great if you can protect them from getting dry or hit by rocks.

I don't have any experience with titanium heaters so maybe someone else has a recommendation here.
 
That looks like much better quality, thanks so much for sharing. While we are on this topic, any recommendation for a good heater? I will be returning the hygger and in the meantime go back to the aquatop titanium heater. Also, are you guys typically use a chiller over the summer? Walnut Creek does get hot, and when we bought the tank end of August, it went up to 80 F or so. Thanks again for all that great advice.
80 isn't anything to freak out about. Prior to leds, tanks regularly ran at 80-82+ during summer.

I live in the central valley and just a fan blowing over the water surface during peak time of day was enough to keep the tank cool. Then again, I have a small jungle of houseplants to help with moisture so ymmv
 
It looks like you are using it correctly. The cycling shouldn't really damage the temp controller, though electronics on and off certainly can do weird things. I would think the temp controller might have failed regardless.

You can get the ITC-308 instead of the 306a. It doesn't have the run time alarm. It also has a cooling outlet instead of 2 heat, if that matters to you.

You could use a titanium element alone without controller, use the inkbird to turn it on and off, and use your apex to shut off the outlet if it's over temp. Stand alone elements seem to be harder and harder to find though.
 
That looks like much better quality, thanks so much for sharing. While we are on this topic, any recommendation for a good heater? I will be returning the hygger and in the meantime go back to the aquatop titanium heater. Also, are you guys typically use a chiller over the summer? Walnut Creek does get hot, and when we bought the tank end of August, it went up to 80 F or so. Thanks again for all that great advice.
In our dry air, fans work as well or better than chillers. I have a fan pointed at the surface of my display water controlled by my Apex. On medium speed, it is able cool the water faster than 600w of heater can heat it. Really I see no functional reason anyone should get a chiller in our area. Maybe an aesthetic one, but even then I wouldn’t since they take up more space and are louder.
 
Also I like InkBirds. I have 7 in use and never had any problems with them in my particular setups. Designing safe heating systems is a big discussion, you can see what I did in this post in my journal:
https://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/jvu’s-rsr750.24825/page-2#post-362518

The general principal is you MUST be protected against fail-on scenarios by having 2 different ways a heater that is stuck on will be shut off, and it’s nice to also be protected against fail-off scenarios, or at least get alerted to them asap.

The Ranco’s are heavier duty and lots of people say great things about them. Back when I was seriously considering them, they were big, bulky, and they were user-unfriendly where you had to wire them yourself, so I lost interest pretty quickly.
 
Also I like InkBirds. I have 7 in use and never had any problems with them in my particular setups. Designing safe heating systems is a big discussion, you can see what I did in this post in my journal:

The general principal is you MUST be protected against fail-on scenarios by having 2 different ways a heater that is stuck on will be shut off, and it’s nice to also be protected against fail-off scenarios, or at least get alerted to them asap.

The Ranco’s are heavier duty and lots of people say great things about them. Back when I was seriously considering them, they were big, bulky, and they were user-unfriendly where you had to wire them yourself, so I lost interest pretty quickly.
@MichaelB
 
+1 for the Ranco, thing is a tank. They are plug and play now with the pre-built options from aqualogic. After burning out multiple heater relays, I am very happy to now be using the Ranco unit.

FYI for @Alexander1312 I have mine running through the Hydros for a 2nd redundancy, if you decide to go this route I can share my settings with you. Very easy though.

Re: elements, the BRS ones are absolutely garbage. Do not buy. I've had 3 fail now in <12mo, one was <6mo. The finnex heaters I have bought are all still kicking after quite some time. That would be my recommendation though I'm sure there are others that work too. But stay away from the BRS ones.
 
I'm also running a Ranco with Hydros as backup on my frag tank. I had the Hydros control my heater at first and it was nice cause I could keep the temp controlled within .1 degrees, but I don't trust the relays for that many cycles over time.

The plug and play AquaLogic Rancos are nice, but a little pricey, probably because they have a titanium temperature probe replacing the stock one. You can save some money by wiring yourself, which is easy, and putting heat shrink tubing over the stock temperature probe.
 
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+1 for the Ranco, thing is a tank. They are plug and play now with the pre-built options from aqualogic. After burning out multiple heater relays, I am very happy to now be using the Ranco unit.

FYI for @Alexander1312 I have mine running through the Hydros for a 2nd redundancy, if you decide to go this route I can share my settings with you. Very easy though.

Re: elements, the BRS ones are absolutely garbage. Do not buy. I've had 3 fail now in <12mo, one was <6mo. The finnex heaters I have bought are all still kicking after quite some time. That would be my recommendation though I'm sure there are others that work too. But stay away from the BRS ones.
Thanks! Yes, I would definitely be interested in the combined Rancho + Hydros setup. Perfecting the heater setup seems well-invested time to me.

Regarding the BRS heaters - I have a 300 watts and a 600 watts running in both tanks as the main heater (and a 100-watt previously). The IM 150 has the finnex heaters as a backup, the 600 watts has been running with daily average consumption of 4 kw/h for over a year now without issues, but I would probably not run it without the Rancho given the negative reviews from you and others.

The company that makes them is German and has been in business for a while. I am not clear what happened to their quality but from what I read, they were asked to produce a large amount of them in a short time, and it seems like they were willing to sacrifice quality temporarily which is not good. However, this issue may no longer be the case.

Now, I suspect that the same company that manufactures the BRS heaters also manufactures the Finnex heaters - since Finnex is not a manufacturer, I believe (looking at their warranty statement). According to their website, they sell the same type of heaters (albeit different wattages) as Finnex. Just a suspicion, but all are reasons for me not to trust any heater manufacturer but use other devices to avoid overheating the tank.
 
Thanks! Yes, I would definitely be interested in the combined Rancho + Hydros setup. Perfecting the heater setup seems well-invested time to me.

Regarding the BRS heaters - I have a 300 watts and a 600 watts running in both tanks as the main heater (and a 100-watt previously). The IM 150 has the finnex heaters as a backup, the 600 watts has been running with daily average consumption of 4 kw/h for over a year now without issues, but I would probably not run it without the Rancho given the negative reviews from you and others.

The company that makes them is German and has been in business for a while. I am not clear what happened to their quality but from what I read, they were asked to produce a large amount of them in a short time, and it seems like they were willing to sacrifice quality temporarily which is not good. However, this issue may no longer be the case.

Now, I suspect that the same company that manufactures the BRS heaters also manufactures the Finnex heaters - since Finnex is not a manufacturer, I believe (looking at their warranty statement). According to their website, they sell the same type of heaters (albeit different wattages) as Finnex. Just a suspicion, but all are reasons for me not to trust any heater manufacturer but use other devices to avoid overheating the tank.
There was definitely some podcast on YouTube I saw that mentioned that too. Either way the BRS lots are pretty poor given the reviews online and here.

Aqua logic finally updated their website and it's working now: https://aqualogicinc.com/product/digital-temperature-controllers/

Todd at champion lighting has them too but check to see which is cheaper for shipping.
 
+1 for the Ranco, thing is a tank. They are plug and play now with the pre-built options from aqualogic. After burning out multiple heater relays, I am very happy to now be using the Ranco unit.

FYI for @Alexander1312 I have mine running through the Hydros for a 2nd redundancy, if you decide to go this route I can share my settings with you. Very easy though.

Re: elements, the BRS ones are absolutely garbage. Do not buy. I've had 3 fail now in <12mo, one was <6mo. The finnex heaters I have bought are all still kicking after quite some time. That would be my recommendation though I'm sure there are others that work too. But stay away from the BRS ones.
I've been actually thinking about the finnex for the 210 gal. How many watts would you recommend for running two of them. Totally system volume probably just under 250 gallon
 
I couldn't answer half of it. But I came up with this if the results make sense.

Screenshot_20241216_175056_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20241216_175103_Chrome.jpg


By the chart I'm not sure
certain which number would be the correct answer.

394 running watts 2- 200 watt heaters?

Or should I be looking at the start up watts 943, meaning 2 -500 watt heaters
 
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