Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your taking the time. I think there was a little confusion - I'm looking at the 40 tank rather than the 40L, with the interior dimensions Length 23” Width: 15” Height: 18.89”. Definitely don't want to buy a used tank. My first tank was used and it leaked within a few months and had to be replaced.
What do the controllers bring to the table over the thermostat in the heater itself? I had thought they were for use with chillers. For heater redundancy, I will have two extra heaters I can throw in if the main one fails until I can get a replacement.
- Lighting: I don't need a longer unit because the tank is only 23" long, so I was looking at the puck style. I'm now looking at the following:
- Radion XR15 G6 fixture...it's more expensive than I wanted but it looks very nice. Spread should be plenty big for this tank.
- ReefLED90 LED light fixture (Red Sea)
- Aquaillumination Prime 16? I read reviews saying they are melty
- Protein skimmer: Skip for now, possible to add later?
- Heater: Eheim titanium heater (due to the 18" depth of this tank I think I can fit the larger size). Controller?
- ATO: Tunze + random food-grade container from Target for RO water
- Accessories: still think I'm going to get the FishGuard™ AIO Overflow Protector [Midsize] from IM - I can't emphasize how dumb my fish are, lol. I just fished one out of my pump last night.
With the heater dual heaters, the implication is:
If one falls the other will ensure tank maintains temperature. They are suggesting using two heaters at the same time. Not having two as in using one and having the other be a spare.
The issue with a heater failing is you may not know when it does. Possibly dead fish / coral.
The controller has it's own temperature probes beyond the built in one on the heater themselves (they are rarely everaccuratein any case. Most have to be adjusted alot tk get desired temperature.) Fluccations occur from light causing water to heat up. Temperature in the room/ outside, rather you have a canopy, lid or ac near by. Lights of off temperature swings are possibly.
Controllers will turn off heaters if tank gets to hot, turn them kn when it gets to cold, and even sound a alarm if the temperature swings outside of your set range. Speaking of the inkbird controller I have on my maint tank.
Heaters work until the day comes they quit. How will you know there is a issue unless you manually check multiple very times every single day? You can get by without a controller but for under $50 you can have peace of mind.
Down the road if it ever goes south when you have lots invested in your tank, and skiped on the heater/controller it's something you would regret.
View it simple as driving without car insurance and all the possibilites that goes along with that. You can do possibly for many years. You can do it until the day comes you regret doing it.
This is not a sales pitch at all. Though I strongly recommend a controller even if you don't go with the dual heaters paired with a controller. Something I also need to get for my main tank. I only have the dual heaters/inkbird set up on my newest tanks.
I have 2 nicrew 150 watt lights set up on my 65 gallon tank. I can't turn them all the way up because they are too powerful.
They can grow anything with the par they put out. For a 40 gallon one might possibly be enough. They are around 200 on amazon worth looking into in any case.
Make sure you do more research on light choices they may have even spread and more shimer, but they may not give enough par penetration depending on tank depth. Just really do alot of research the light you consider.
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