Julius' CDA 150 Build

[Julius Chen]

My CDA 150 setup will be delivered tomorrow

Some general questions -

1. Where do you guys buy vinegar? What I got from Costco is diluted to 5%. Thinking to buy something stronger, which saves space and I can always dilute when I need to.

2. My temporary setup has been running for 8 months. There is much nutrient in that tank and rocks. Should I try to minimize the amount of live rocks I transfer into the new setup? I do plan to transfer all rocks with extensive zoa growth.

3. I have been running a brute can with old and live rocks from my old setup during the same 8 months period. But with very little water change - I think last change was 4 months ago. Rocks are all whitish looking buy now. Can these rocks go straight in the new setup, or I'd better chlorinate them, then run in salt water for say 2 more months before transfer into new setup?

It will still be at least 2 months before I start running the new tank, as I need cut open the dry wall behind the tank to set up some plumbing connecting garage via crawl space. So I have some time.

 

[MolaMola]

White vinegar also varies by brand. For school we bought Smart and Final's house brand First Street and it does not dissolve eggshells like Heinz even though it was labelled as the same concentration. There is also "cleaning vinegar" which I think is 6%.

 

[Julius Chen]

Just read online. 6% vinegar is a lot stronger than 5% and some vinegars are 30%. I guess there is no 100% vinegar.

Some dilute vinegar and spay as cleaner. Doesn’t that leave the acid content at cleaned surface even after dried? Thinking to use it with rodi water to spray clean tank glass.

 

[MolaMola]

I think 100% vinegar would be concentrated acetic acid, which we would not want to have at home.
Does the glass have some calcium buildup? Not sure why you would use vinegar. Like as in window cleaning?

 

[insomniac2k2]

Why would you chlorinate your LR? Do you have a nuisance that forced you to pull your LR? I would not kill off my LR unless i needed to for a reason such as that.

I just completed the same type of transition that your doing. If you have the need to re-use your LR from your "cook" container, you can use Lanthanum Chloride to remove phosphates created from the rock die off, as well as the rock itself, while still maintaining a healthy bacterial culture.

I usually put quite a bit in my cook container. Then every time i do a water change on my DT, I drain my cook container and fill with my water change water. I then re-apply LC. After a few cycles of this (over months really, but..), your pretty much guaranteed not to have any phosphate leeching.

I've done this several times over the years with pretty consistent results. Just giving you something to consider.

My CDA 150 setup will be delivered tomorrow

Some general questions -

1. Where do you guys buy vinegar? What I got from Costco is diluted to 5%. Thinking to buy something stronger, which saves space and I can always dilute when I need to.

2. My temporary setup has been running for 8 months. There is much nutrient in that tank and rocks. Should I try to minimize the amount of live rocks I transfer into the new setup? I do plan to transfer all rocks with extensive zoa growth.

3. I have been running a brute can with old and live rocks from my old setup during the same 8 months period. But with very little water change - I think last change was 4 months ago. Rocks are all whitish looking buy now. Can these rocks go straight in the new setup, or I'd better chlorinate them, then run in salt water for say 2 more months before transfer into new setup?

It will still be at least 2 months before I start running the new tank, as I need cut open the dry wall behind the tank to set up some plumbing connecting garage via crawl space. So I have some time.

 

[sfsuphysics]

You can always use citric acid if you want "acid on the go" handy. I think Tunze sells a little 100g container for like $9 or $10... or you could just go to Amazon get the stuff in a 5 lbs (2.3kg or so) bag for around $15 (or a smaller amount for less ). Citric acid is more acidic than vinegar but being in a powder form you don't have to worry about "storing water" which is essentially what you're doing with vinegar, just add your own water when you want to make up a batch. That said I get it at costco because I also use vinegar in the kitchen.

as for the nutrients in the rock, what exactly do you mean? Lots of gunk and crap still in them? If so it might be a bit late to do anything about it if your tank is coming/here, I would definitely "swish and dunk" the rock to try and get whatever crap off them. If you mean nutrients as in phosphates, you can still do a lanthium chloride drip to precipitate them out a bit.

Overall I would look at each rock on a case by case basis, put ones that are not "dirty" into the tank get that cycle started in there with all the surface area, if nothing is clean, then yeah re-evaluate your cooking process because 8 months of rocks by themselves should have broken down everything that could by now.

 

[MolaMola]

If you want fast citric acid check grocery stores, Walmart, Target in the canning area or health food stores in bath area. Not sure where else.

 

[Julius Chen]

I just think my live rocks in both the temporary set up and the brute may have excess nutrient build up at its surface and inside. So want to try to clean them off as much as I can, without killing the good stuff.

Where can I buy what brand Lanthanum Chloride that is safe to use?

By the way, any one tried to tap a 1/2" schedule 40 pvc male into the wall of 4" diameter abs drain pipe (black)? Wonder if the thickness of the 4" abs drain pipe is sufficient to provide a reliable threaded connection with taping. This will be used for drain old salt water from the Palmer pump - I have found sediments will block the connectors/fittings of 1/4" RODI tubing, so want to increase the inside diamter to 1/2" PVC instead.

Bought 4 bags of CaribSea Aragonite Special Grade Dry Sand. Getting there...

 

[insomniac2k2]

You can buy it at many places, but i can only recommend SeaKlear commercial strength. This is the one ive used for dosing my tank for years. Obviously that is a whole other story and must be used carefully. Cooking rocks with it is perfectly safe and effective.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMQZZJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Coral reefer]

I just think my live rocks in both the temporary set up and the brute may have excess nutrient build up at its surface and inside. So want to try to clean them off as much as I can, without killing the good stuff.

Where can I buy what brand Lanthanum Chloride that is safe to use?

By the way, any one tried to tap a 1/2" schedule 40 pvc male into the wall of 4" diameter abs drain pipe (black)? Wonder if the thickness of the 4" abs drain pipe is sufficient to provide a reliable threaded connection with taping. This will be used for drain old salt water from the Palmer pump - I have found sediments will block the connectors/fittings of 1/4" RODI tubing, so want to increase the inside diamter to 1/2" PVC instead.

Bought 4 bags of CaribSea Aragonite Special Grade Dry Sand. Getting there...

Why not cut into it and use a tee or wye fitting?

 

[Julius Chen]

Coral Reefer, I was hesitant to cut the big 4" drain pipe. But now thinking to try your suggestion on the smaller branch drain pipe (2~3" in diameter). Will insert a tee/wye and use 2 pieces of the flexible coupling (photo attached) to connect both ends to the cut drain pipe. Is this what you had in mind?

Also wondering if I should build a tailpipe trap there, to stop the gas and odor travelling back to the tank. What do you think?

I also need to cut a hole in the dry wall behind the tank, install 3 pvc pipes which will go 90" downward through the subfloor into the crawl space. Then brace the pipes to beam or subfloor itself, and put some kind of recessed plate to cover up the drywall opening. Anybody done this before? Love to see pix of how you did it. Want it to look nice and clean, and pipes all secure.

Thanks!
Julius

 

[Julius Chen]

Anybody used Flex Seal Liquid Rubber to paint over inside stand and make a pan out of its bottom?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Coral reefer]

Coral Reefer, I was hesitant to cut the big 4" drain pipe. But now thinking to try your suggestion on the smaller branch drain pipe (2~3" in diameter). Will insert a tee/wye and use 2 pieces of the flexible coupling (photo attached) to connect both ends to the cut drain pipe. Is this what you had in mind?

Also wondering if I should build a tailpipe trap there, to stop the gas and odor travelling back to the tank. What do you think?

I also need to cut a hole in the dry wall behind the tank, install 3 pvc pipes which will go 90" downward through the subfloor into the crawl space. Then brace the pipes to beam or subfloor itself, and put some kind of recessed plate to cover up the drywall opening. Anybody done this before? Love to see pix of how you did it. Want it to look nice and clean, and pipes all secure.

Thanks!
Julius

I guess you may want a trap...hard to say if it's needed. Not sure, sorry

 

[rygh]

Muriatic acid from a pool supply store is pretty cheap, and works well to clean rocks.
Be careful with it of course.

 

[Julius Chen]

I am close to half way through to connect display tank location and garage via the crawl space!

Attached photos show the progress in order.

The plan includes:
A. 1x 1" PVC pipe with 5x RODI 1/4 tubings and 1x Aqua cable inside.
B. 2x 1/2" PVC pipes
C. 1x 3/4" PVC pipe from display tank to drain pipe in crawl space

I will use A and B above for continuous water change. In future, might just use B's 2x 1/2" pipes with Apex for water change, as suggested by Scuzy.

I was lucky to have an electrical outlet already there. By peeking behind it, it was easy to decide where I want the 4 gang dry wall opening to be exactly.

In photo #4, after pilot holes drilled, I inserted tiny wires through top down, before crawling underneath to verify clearance.

 

[Julius Chen]

Piping in crawl space is about 60%. I have yet to cut open the 2" drain pipe (photo #11) to connect a T-trap there.

Dry wall opening at the garage side is yet to be cut.

Hope to wrap things up within 2 weeks.

 

[xcaret]

That’s a lot of work but the reward will be worth every drop of sweat!

 

[Julius Chen]

All, I want to create a thread asking help to come to my place weekend of 8/18 or 8/19, to lift and mount the CDA 150G tank to the stand.

Which sub-forum is the right place to create that thread? "Equipment"?

Thanks!
Julius

 

[xcaret]

Eutropic, Other reef talk or this one works; you should state which city.

 

[Julius Chen]

Hello, all,

I'd really appreciate if any of you can come to my house to help lift the new CDA 150 gallon tank to the stand.

Location: Fremont, 94539 (near 680 and 800 crossing).
Time: Prefer 8/18 Saturday afternoon or 8/19 Sunday morning to noon, but I am flexible.

I like to get total of 8 to 9 guys. Be great if at least half come from the club. I have friends outside the hobby who can fill in the gaps.

Tank is sitting on wood pallet in garage (photo #1). Dimension 4'x2'x2', weights 400+ lbs. It needs to either go through a 31" wide door over a distance of 40', or double front door of the house but a longer distance of 120~150'.

Stand (photo #2) will be placed ~12" from wall.

Love to borrow suction cups from club members. Let me know if you have any.

Cold beers will be served. I have mushroom and zoa overgrown in a temporary 60 gallon. You are welcome to frag some if you like.

Much appreciated!
Julius