I’m pretty sure you would need to be using the DOS for this to work, since it plugs into the DOS, and Apex reads it as an extension of the DOS.Very cool thanks for sharing this, do you think it would be possible to do this without having the dos as well? It would be nice to be able to use the basic brs dosers and have this volume level.
Also I just ordered pH calibration fluid, it has been about 4 months since I got the probes and I am getting some WILD pH readings it’s insane. Hopefully calibration fixes it.
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I’m going to have to do this. Awesome!I implemented a pretty simple hack for being able to show a graphic for how much liquid is left in a reservoir that isn’t a Neptune DDR when using DOS as a pump.
I dose my Triton 3-part with 2 DOS pumps and 1 DDR. I use the DDR for parts 1 & 2 of my Triton Core7, and a larger DIY dosing jug for part 3 (which doses as much as the other 2 combined). I like the graphic tiles that show at a glance how much is left in each of the DDR containers, but it has always annoyed me that it won’t show how much is left in my non-Neptune container, even though I’m using DOS pumps for it, and even though you can enter the volume of the container, the Apex updates the volume as solution is used, and all other relevant details to be able to show it are there. Like Neptune saying “No pretty graphic for you unless you buy our DDR”.
Anyway I came across a solution by making the DOS think that it is plugged in to a DDR. Some EE folks obviously much more knowledgeable than I am figured out that if you connect with a tiny resistor the top left and top right wires of the 6-pin Molex plug the DDR uses to plug into the DOS, the system will see that as having a DDR connected and will allow you to use their pretty graphic. They also figured out how to wire up additional float/level sensors, which I didn’t have a use for at this time. In case you want the result without the wiring, there‘s a guy selling kits with plug/sensors on EBay.
The smart people who figured this out:
CuseReefer, I know this is an old thread. I was not on r2r, but googled and this thread came up. I did this mod to both of my dos units. It works flawlessly. I just wanted to thank you for sharing this info. I only signed up to thank you, but I’ll look around here a bit out of curiosity.www.reef2reef.com
Although pretty simple as far as this kind of thing goes, I’m not very experienced with wiring/soldering, so it was a good learning experience for me.
By the way, I tried to find the plug and resistors at 4 different local stores and was unsuccessful (a couple months ago before the lockdown), so I eventually ordered from Amazon.
The 150 ohm resistor (comes in multi-packs):
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E-Projects 25EP514150R 150 Ohm Resistors, 1/4 W, 5% (Pack of 25): Single Resistors: Amazon.com: Industrial & ScientificE-Projects 25EP514150R 150 Ohm Resistors, 1/4 W, 5% (Pack of 25): Single Resistors: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientificwww.amazon.com
The plug was hard to find, I wound up getting this one:
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Cable Assembly, Micro-Fit 6 Position Receptacle, Micro-Fit 6 Position Receptacle, 3.3 ft, 1 m: Amazon.com: Industrial & ScientificCable Assembly, Micro-Fit 6 Position Receptacle, Micro-Fit 6 Position Receptacle, 3.3 ft, 1 m: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientificwww.amazon.com
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These top 2 wires are the ones to connect with the resistor, the other 4 to be cut close to the plug:
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My old soldering iron was broken so I had to get a new one, I‘m happy with this basic Weller:
I soldered the 2 wires to each end of the resistor, then put shrink wrap tubing around with a heat gun.
Finished and plugged in to the DOS:
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Voila, pretty graphic for my Alkalinity container (I didn’t update the volume yet, but notice the larger total volume):
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I was poking around for fun, and it seems unclear.The large high voltage DC battery recharges the small one on demand whether or not the car is on.
Efficiency is probably around 75%.Some poking around shows that the battery is somewhere in the 33AH range, so max draw at 550w is about 4.6amps. So depending upon inverter efficiency rating that's anywhere up to 7+ hours before need of the other batteries to juice it back up.
Some more poking also shows that those 12V batteries typically get replaced almost yearly, geezus, talk about a money pit... well I guess not paying for gas kind of helps cushion that cost
Yeah but unless it's so cold that heaters are on constantly you're not going to get that huge draw, heaters very easily can be off less than 50% of the time, although I have no idea what his setup is.Efficiency is probably around 75%.
And you definitely do not want to drain a lead acid battery all the way. Maybe 75%.
So for those heaters it is more like 4 hours.
And then the motors, controllers, lights, and so on.
Now you are down to 2-3 hours.
So if the wakeup time of 5-6 hours is correct, it would not be a good solution.