Reef nutrition

Kinetic ELOS 120XL

MolaMola said:
There's clearance for tubing and the clamps on both hose barbs in that screw area? That right one also looks right against the side with a hole in it, too. Annoyance ahead.
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They're very close together, I don't know if there's going to be clearance. I will be changing the plumbing to hard sched 40... hopefully that will help.
 
Got another reply from Francois:
- He will replace the panels that are damaged, but he needs them to be shipped from Italy (that's fine by me)
- He wants the existing stand back so he can try to repaint it, but I'm pushing for him to just order one that's already white from italy, since we'd be waiting for panels anyway, so we don't have to deal with repainting from someone who's already proven to not be great at painting.
- He says that every single tank is different, so that's why the overflow lid is so different. That makes no sense to me. Are overflows all different sizes? Is the drain a whole 3/4" to the right of some other drains when drilled into the tank? This is incredibly weird to me. I'm asking for clarification. Also, it's just a poor excuse. If he knew this, then why did he just send a random one without confirming?
- He has no response about the screws, so I have to again, ask about the screws
- He is completely avoiding talking to me about the overflow, GPH specs, etc. -- I don't know why. I have sent him a reply with just ONE subject: Please send me the overflow specifications and instructions.

He is assuring me that he wants to make things right. He is very nice about it, and not rude by any means. So I want to make that clear.

The substance, however, has been lacking. I think it could either be that he's incredibly busy and overworked, or he's simply tactically trying to do the least amount to get away with it. I don't know which is true, but it could also be somewhere in the middle. Like he says he'll send me a return label for the overflow lid so that he can match it perfectly and send me a new one, but he never sent me the label even after I asked for it twice. He keeps assuring me he will send me everything I need, yet doesn't give me a timeline nor what he's actually sending me.

I'm glad I started this process way ahead of time. I just might get my tank/stand fully by the time my home remodel starts and finishes haha.
 
I’m going to have my drain go into a ReefMat that takes a 1” drain. This drain is 1-1/4”. It came with an adapter that goes to a barbed fitting with a male thread. Should I get something like this that both converts from thread to slip and reduces to 1” all at once?

Coupling, PVC, 1-1/4 x 1 In., Slip x Slip https://a.co/d/iAf9JmK
 
Art, personally I would just at this point ask to return it for a full refund. If there are this many things wrong with it, do you really still want this tank? I mean they can't even get the stand to fit the overflow plumbing?
 
iani said:
Art, personally I would just at this point ask to return it for a full refund. If there are this many things wrong with it, do you really still want this tank? I mean they can't even get the stand to fit the overflow plumbing?
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While I don't disagree completely, the transport of the glass is the hardest part. It seems like that was as promised and ordered. I like the black silicone dots at the bottom for the 2x thickness glass. They knew what they were doing there.

The rest of these stand issues should be able to be fixed. Like I said earlier too, they should be bending over backwards to fix these stand issues. Sending the stand back to get dialed in wouldn't be out of the question in my opinion now. And stands transport way easier than the tank.

You have crossed the line from me previously feeling like you could fix everything to now they should be fixing the growing number of things wrong. Best of luck!

To answer your plumbing question, I am a fan of the threaded pieces since they can be taken apart. And I am a fan of the slip fittings if you never need to take it apart. Since this is going into a reefmat roller system, I would vote for the modularity and go for the threaded with Teflon tape to make the seal, but I know our real plumber's opinion is more relevant.
 
I am doing a leak test. Decided to just go with RODI just in case. Don’t come at me, I know it’s a waste but here we are. Crossing my fingers the tank itself is quality AF.

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So far so good. I’m going to the lip of the overflow for now. Should I plug the drain and test the overflow compartment as well?

Also placing my Gyre XF350s. Putting them closer together and having them hit the long glass in the middle rather than shooting down the length of the tank. Who knows what I’ll end up with, but fun to just see these.

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Kind of a mess, I wonder if I should’ve gone with MP40s instead…

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What's the plan for under the sump as in waterproofing? Does Elos sell a mat with raised edges that fits inside the stand base?
 
PjFish said:
Nice...any ridged material over the liner ? And material to cover the corner folds or just leave them exposed
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We cut around the posts, but made sure to keep a waterproof pan. Meaning folds are present and glued together. I have personally seen 3"-4" of water sitting in my sump pan. Not a good thing for the overflowing skimmer that caused it, but real life testing showed it was effective.
 
H2OPlayar said:
View attachment 42632

We cut around the posts, but made sure to keep a waterproof pan. Meaning folds are present and glued together. I have personally seen 3"-4" of water sitting in my sump pan. Not a good thing for the overflowing skimmer that caused it, but real life testing showed it was effective.
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Curious do the edges of the sump dig into the membrane from the weight? Thinking about doing the same down the road when I flip out my sump plus a spill tray on top of the liner if needed. I've used the same material in the past for my walk in shower but it's protected by mosaic pebble tiles.
Thanks
Paul
 
I've had to re-arrange my sump now that I know the true footprint of the stand. I've considered putting my electrical area on the opposite side, since the outlets are over there, but I intend to keep that end of the stand "open," thus having a lot more airflow out the back. This will also give me plenty of easy access to the electrical since it's on the short end that's not against the wall (and with the absolute stand, all panels can be removed).

Any suggestions before I send it off to luna-reef for an estimate?

ELOS 120XL Stand Real Dimensions.jpg
 
PjFish said:
Curious do the edges of the sump dig into the membrane from the weight? Thinking about doing the same down the road when I flip out my sump plus a spill tray on top of the liner if needed. I've used the same material in the past for my walk in shower but it's protected by mosaic pebble tiles.
Thanks
Paul
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From what I can tell, it is plenty thick and robust. I'll have a better answer when the tank gets broken down.
 
Update from Francois at ELOS America:

He has agreed to get a whole new stand from Italy, painted there as well. He was saying he understands that I'd rather have this done right, rather than as fast as possible (of course I want as fast as possible, but there's some things I won't compromise on). His main push was to resolve it quickly, but I've made it clear that this is a long term tank, it needs to be without all these flaws and I am willing to wait.

The plan is to maybe have the new stand by December, which is fine by me.

In the meantime, he's still avoiding telling me about the Quiet Drain 3, no update on the overflow lid, and also didn't say he sent out the right screws. It seems like I can only ask him one thing every 2 weeks.
 
Good news: the tank is full of water (up to the overflow lip) and it does not leak. Holding water like a champ. I'll probably just fire up the gyres just to make sure they work (still within the warranty range) and imagine some fish and corals.
 
I also took some advice and I won't be using a chiller afterall. Having that fit in the stand just to help with possibly a couple hot days in the summer when my air conditioner isn't on, just isn't worth it. I'll get some fans to blow across the sump, and if that's not enough I'll add some on the DT.
 
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