Neptune Aquatics

MD’s 45 Gallon Frag Tank

MarcosDelgado0

MarcosDelgado0

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This is going to be the second journal I have active that I’ll try to keep up with. The first journal for the 90 Gallon Shallow Reef got put on pause while I’m waiting for my custom aquascape from Reef Rock Oasis. Plan is to move everything from the 50 Gallon Low Boy into here so I can break that tank down for @MichaelB .

Aquarium: Advanced Acrylics 45 Gallon Frag Tank
Stand: DIY
Sump: 29 Gallon DIY
Lighting: Two Nicrew HyperReef LED 150W
Return Pump: Jebao DCP-6500
Protein Skimmer: AquaMaxx FC-120
Heaters: Two Eheim Jager 100W on Inkbird ITC-306a
Powerheads: TBD
ATO: Fzone ATO
ATO Resovoir: Simplicity 10 Gallon Easy-Fill
Salt: Instant Ocean Reef Crystals
 

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I spent today doing the plumbing on this tank which is definitely my least favorite part. No manifold on this one, I installed one in the Low Boys plumbing and honestly I didn’t even end up hooking anything to it lol. This tank is also a foot shorter so there isn’t really space for a manifold. The filter sock holder is just temporary, I plan on adding a filter roller. Second section will be skimmer. I’ll be moving the one from the low boy setup here l- I already measured and made sure it’ll fit. Third section will be a small refugium. I think I’ll just be adding some live rock rubble to give the pods a home, I won’t be adding macro algae. 4th section is bubble trap. 5th section is return. I got the acrylic baffles premade from a seller on eBay, I won’t name them because it was a rough experience so I wouldn’t recommend them lol.

Tomorrow evening I plan on doing leak testing to make sure my plumbing is all good. Mondays are a busy day for me so I will be moving everything over on Tuesday most likely.

Before I move everything over… a couple of questions:

1) Does the plumbing look ok the way I put everything together? The one part I’m worried about is the fact the left return is closest to the pump so I’m not sure if water will even make it to the right return line. I put RFG nozzles on both returns. I also plan on adding a pipe to the emergency overflow so it doesn’t splash so much, just waiting to see where sump water level will be

2) Do you guys recommend using old tank water or completely new water? Or half/half? They’re roughly the same water volumes so I could use 100% old water but not sure if this would be a good time for a “large water change”?

3) Suggestions for filter roller? I left enough space for a Red Sea Reef Mat 500… not sure if that’s overkill or should I just go 250? My logic is 500 would be more future proof in case I upgrade again in the future…

4) Sand or no sand?

5) What would you guys do for flow? I realized too late that this tank is 3/4” acrylic so the two MP10s I was thinking of using wouldn’t work…
 

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I'd probably run half old water since you will kick up a ton of particles moving things. What's your future fish plan? Frag tanks typically are nutrient poor due to the fish to coral ratio so the filter roller might be a bit overkill unless you just plan on keeping it until you transfer the livestock into the new tank. Bare bottom is probably ideal for maintenance with a decent amount of rock somewhere in the sump with the sand in a remote chamber to keep it alive until the move.
 
Darkxerox said:
I'd probably run half old water since you will kick up a ton of particles moving things. What's your future fish plan? Frag tanks typically are nutrient poor due to the fish to coral ratio so the filter roller might be a bit overkill unless you just plan on keeping it until you transfer the livestock into the new tank. Bare bottom is probably ideal for maintenance with a decent amount of rock somewhere in the sump with the sand in a remote chamber to keep it alive until the move.
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The filter roller was mostly because I hate changing filter socks lol. No idea on fish plan yet. Current frag tank only has a pair of clowns.
 
MarcosDelgado0 said:
1) Does the plumbing look ok the way I put everything together? The one part I’m worried about is the fact the left return is closest to the pump so I’m not sure if water will even make it to the right return line. I put RFG nozzles on both returns. I also plan on adding a pipe to the emergency overflow so it doesn’t splash so much, just waiting to see where sump water level will be
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Do you have room to add a ball valve to the near return line? That would allow you to balance the flow between the two.
 
Srt4eric said:
If you get rid of the two unions on the return lines and replace them with true union. Ball valves. Then you have both unions and ball valves for even flow.
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Do you think one ball valve placed on the left side closest to the pump and restricting that would be enough to balance flow? Or should I put them on both? I have one of those blue ball valves like you used on your tank on hand I can use
 
I ended up just adding the one ball valve I had to the return closest to the pump. My thought process is if the whole reason I’m adding it is to restrict that return then the one furthest should not have any restriction. I’m ok if it doesn’t end up balancing 50/50… just didn’t want them to be very uneven with a lot of pressure on the return closest to the pump and then a trickle through the other return
 

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Leak test went well but ran into another issue… When I built the stand it was level when I checked outside but now in my bedroom with carpet, I think the flooring isn’t level… How do I go about fixing this? It’s a 2x4 stand with the sides wrapped in plywood. I don’t supposed I could attach leveling feet because that would spread out the weight onto only those points which isn’t what the stand was built for. It’s evenly unlevel in the front and in the back so it’s not like the stand is twisting
 

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MarcosDelgado0 said:
Leak test went well but ran into another issue… When I built the stand it was level when I checked outside but now in my bedroom with carpet, I think the flooring isn’t level… How do I go about fixing this? It’s a 2x4 stand with the sides wrapped in plywood. I don’t supposed I could attach leveling feet because that would spread out the weight onto only those points which isn’t what the stand was built for. It’s evenly unlevel in the front and in the back so it’s not like the stand is twisting
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You can use a bunch of shims, depending on how big the gap is.
 
MichaelB said:
That would be alot eaiser than what I was thinking probably no real cutting.

Is the carpet heavily padded? If so it could settle more at some point. Meaning that extra plush padded carpet
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It is pretty padded. I’m going to leave it with water overnight and see how much it settles. I can’t get the shims until tomorrow anyways. I’m just happy the plumbing didn’t leak. I would’ve hated to cut out pieces and reglue
 
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