License to krill

My 170g cube

ashburn2k

Webmaster
Staff member
Did you do a full load test? One issue I have for this kind of rack is that once. I have full load and it’s so easy to fail, since the magnet can’t hold on to the external ones.


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I haven't done the load testing yet.

I'm not worried about the magnets holding, I went overboard on magnet selection. I'm more worried about the design failing.

I'll be doing some load testing this evening
 
Did you do a full load test? One issue I have for this kind of rack is that once. I have full load and it’s so easy to fail, since the magnet can’t hold on to the external ones.


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I did some testing today. In open air mounted to half in material, the rack held 8oz of frag discs just fine. Around 10oz it became unstable. If I flip it upside down (magnets above the rack) it held almost a pound before starting to slide down.

In tank on half inch glass it held almost a pound before peeling away.
 

rygh

Webmaster
Are the mangroves staying in the overflow?
I would worry about roots and crud blocking things.
 

ashburn2k

Webmaster
Staff member
I did some testing today. In open air mounted to half in material, the rack held 8oz of frag discs just fine. Around 10oz it became unstable. If I flip it upside down (magnets above the rack) it held almost a pound before starting to slide down.

In tank on half inch glass it held almost a pound before peeling away.
in that case id like to order some when you are ready. but not in green :p
 
Are the mangroves staying in the overflow?
I would worry about roots and crud blocking things.
They have adjusted well (they were grown in freshwater) to the tank and I'm getting new leaves. I am still thinking about how to manage root growth.

I have them sitting pretty deep so they get light from the kessils. the roots aren't an issue for now but I have to keep an eye on it.
 

JVU

BOD
For what it’s worth you would have better mechanics for load bearing if the magnets were higher up with a stabilizing bar dropping down, rather than having the magnets at the bottom of the stabilizing bar.
 
For what it’s worth you would have better mechanics for load bearing if the magnets were higher up with a stabilizing bar dropping down, rather than having the magnets at the bottom of the stabilizing bar.
Agreed. The rack hold a lot more weight that way but blocks the view of two frag spots.

I'm thinking about getting long rectangular magnets for another version to keep the same strength with a lower profile.
 
Someone suggested I run my CO2 scrubber input from the Skimmer collection cup. The theory is since the air in the Skimmer has already been scrubbed, the media should last longer and be more efficient.

I also replaced my solenoid for the scrubber from a random one, that didn't properly open and close due to low pressure of Skimmer vacuum, to the apex one and used one of the 24v ports on the EB832. One less plug being used, more reliable valve and more efficient media.
 

JVU

BOD
Someone suggested I run my CO2 scrubber input from the Skimmer collection cup. The theory is since the air in the Skimmer has already been scrubbed, the media should last longer and be more efficient.

I also replaced my solenoid for the scrubber from a random one, that didn't properly open and close due to low pressure of Skimmer vacuum, to the apex one and used one of the 24v ports on the EB832. One less plug being used, more reliable valve and more efficient media.
I’ve heard this a bit different, that you should have your air intake for the skimmer come from your CO2 scrubber, with the idea that CO2 depleted air (high pH) will be dissolving into your tank water more efficiently.

Skimmers don’t actively deplete CO2, though if you have a semi-closed loop of air from your skimmer cup into CO2 scrubber feeding your skimmer then going back into the CO2 scrubber, you won’t go through media as fast because you won’t be scrubbing as much CO2 (less effective). You also won’t be exchanging O2 as well in the skimmer.
 
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