Our mission

Our DSA Neo 105 Build

xcaret said:
I tried it long ago with a Dremel blade and it went dull pretty fast, guess a carbide grit might be a better choice for the task. I'm tempted to use a concrete grinding cup on a right angle grinder to make the rock flat, just tempted; have too many projects lined up.
Pretty nice job on the acrylic !
Click to expand...

I've used both and as long as it's not delicate work, the right angle grinder works wonders and is fast. Otherwise, a carbide disc on the dremel works well.
 
Last edited:
roostertech said:
Post a close up of the sump lid handle

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
By request "Sump Lid Handles".

Possibly overkill. ;)
Each handle is 5 layers of plastic laminated together. I attached the handles with stainless hardware in case I ever needed to remover them to allow something to sit on top of the lids. :)

IMG_3694.JPG
IMG_3697.JPG
IMG_3696.JPG
IMG_3693.JPG
 
Last edited:
Out of curiosity how "stainless" is it really? I mean if you put a SS screw into a tank it will corrode eventually. Does the occasionally "spritz" of saltwater not corrode them... or is it one of those "when it corrodes I'll replace them" situations?
 
sfsuphysics said:
Out of curiosity how "stainless" is it really? I mean if you put a SS screw into a tank it will corrode eventually. Does the occasionally "spritz" of saltwater not corrode them... or is it one of those "when it corrodes I'll replace them" situations?
Click to expand...
Well Vertex and Bubble King use stainless screws on their skimmers. I've not had any of their screws corrode. I know it is possible for stainless to Corrode but at least they will resist corrosion much more than other screws. Only time will tell. We'll see how it goes. I have a box of them, so replacement won't be a problem. :p


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I was pretty sure vertex and bubble king used titanium screws. I went with titanium bolts for in my sump but that was for my adjustable baffle that is submerged in the water. Chances are if the grade of stainless steel was not listed it is likely 304 which is most common. It should hold up quite a while under those conditions but will eventually rust. 316 is considered Marine grade and what is used on boats. It will last much longer but will eventually rust too.
 
The one manufacturer that I recall to use ss screws is Danner on their Mag Drive and Pondmaster pumps, never had a rusting issue with them, maybe in the longer long run?
 
coral4me said:
The siphon will drain a lot of water fast and quiet. The durso functions a little louder because it pulls air down with the water into the sump. I use the gate valve to dial in siphon flow to match the amount of water going into the overflow.
Click to expand...

Just picked up the exact same tank with a bean animal drain into a sump below BUT I will likely connect it to my 187g sump. Since it will have a little distance (4 feet), I am thinking of just using the durso and capping the other two. Any feedback would be appreciated.

BTW your build is getting me excited to pick up mine - June after Cancun family vacation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I have successfully ran tanks with a durso as the only drain. When properly tuned the bean animal will run quieter than the durso alone. I also like having piece of mind that there is a backup drain in case something goes wrong with one of the drains since it sits in my living room. When I bought the tank it had two drains and two returns. In my re-plumb I gave it three drains and one return that tees after it gets back into the overflow chamber. I'd keep the bean animal if possible. @Vhuang168 should chime in, he has a lot of experience with bean animal and durso drains.
 
coral4me said:
I have successfully ran tanks with a durso as the only drain. When properly tuned the bean animal will run quieter than the durso alone. I also like having piece of mind that there is a backup drain in case something goes wrong with one of the drains since it sits in my living room. When I bought the tank it had two drains and two returns. In my re-plumb I gave it three drains and one return that tees after it gets back into the overflow chamber. I'd keep the bean animal if possible. @Vhuang168 should chime in, he has a lot of experience with bean animal and durso drains.
Click to expand...

Small world, the DSA 105 I am purched includes a sump and skimmer traded from @Vhuang168. I purchased Wilson's set up with similar red plumbing as yours! Thanks for your advice. Maybe I should just run flex from this bean animal to my main sump?

20160818_172237.jpg


20160806_161946.jpg
[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited:
Nice, I saw that tank on CL. I believe that tank is slightly different than mine. Looks like the back wall is drilled. Mine has the bottom drilled. You'll get more real estate inside which would be nice to have!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Started Aquascaping again last Friday after work. Built up this base from two rocks and gave it a nice footing for stability.
Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.33.36 PM.png


Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.33.51 PM.png

Earlier in the week I made this top section from three pieces of rock. Here I am test fitting it to the base Saturday morning.
Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.34.58 PM.png


Back side of test fit
Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.35.07 PM.png


@Ashalye and I decided we liked this fit better. It gives more of a one piece look, instead of two pieces balanced on one and other.
Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.35.26 PM.png


Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.35.48 PM.png

It reminds me of a wishbone.
Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.36.04 PM.png

All cured and ready to go
Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.36.27 PM.png


Into the tank with it.
Screen Shot 2017-04-12 at 4.37.15 PM.png
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top