Reef nutrition

Our DSA Neo 105 Build

<3-2-reef said:
Not sure, I haven't got that far. I was just going to attach the electronics with stainless steel screws to the wall and run a wire manager down the middle. Let me know if you have some other ideas.
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It would have been neat to do a control panel on the side window and run wire into grommets. But since you'll have a little one going around touching every knobs soon that won't work so your original plan would be best. What kind of door are you putting on the side?
 
roostertech said:
It would have been neat to do a control panel on the side window and run wire into grommets. But since you'll have a little one going around touching every knobs soon that won't work so your original plan would be best. What kind of door are you putting on the side?
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Yea. We're going to have to put the magnet latches on the doors like you did!
 
roostertech said:
It would have been neat to do a control panel on the side window and run wire into grommets. But since you'll have a little one going around touching every knobs soon that won't work so your original plan would be best. What kind of door are you putting on the side?
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I made the side door out of the same piece that I cut out from the side of the stand. Then I trimmed it with oak to build the dimensions out larger than the hole and painted it to match the stand. It looks just like the doors on the front. In the post above, I think the picture of the painted door is actually the side door.
 
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sfsuphysics said:
Good call on the side panel for electrical. Was/am going to do that with my tank (if I ever get around to getting one)


Your "siphon" pipe looks impossibly drawn at the end, seems to go behind and in front of the "durso" pipe :D
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I thought that too, but I think it's actually above/in front of the other 2 pipes. The perspective is weird.. :p
 
The drawing is actually correct, but it does play with your eyes if you don't know that the two smaller bulkheads on the outside are in front of the two larger ones in the center. The outer ones are closer to you and they form a trapezoid. Doesn't really matter I just needed to draft out something before starting the plumbing. The actually plumping went in slightly different than my drawing but most of the design and valve placement was retained.


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Why do you have 2 valves each on Durso pipe + Siphon pipe?
Seems like you might want a union in spots for disassembly, but only one valve needed.
For that matter, why are there any valves on the Durso pipe?

Nice cabinetry work. You sure like pocket holes. :)
 
Set the desired flow rate with the gate valves, then use the ball valves to shut on/off without having to change the gate valve settings. In the upcoming plumping posts you'll see that I did add unions as you suggest. Good eye for design!
 
coral4me said:
Set the desired flow rate with the gate valves, then use the ball valves to shut on/off without having to change the gate valve settings. In the upcoming plumping posts you'll see that I did add unions as you suggest. Good eye for design!
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Ok, except for those pipes, there is really nothing to shut off.
If you are working on the drains, you will have to shut off your return pump anyway.
Once that happens, water stops on its own.
Extra valves generally do not hurt, just trying to simplify.
 
Maybe over kill, but they have been helpful especially in testing the system to simulate a clogged drain. I have unions between the gate valves and the ball valves. When I service the sump and take the gate valves off at the union, it's nice to close the rest of the drain line at the ball valve just in case something happened, like the return pump started or the stand pipe in the overflow box got pulled out while the plumbing to the sump wasn't connected.


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Sorry to keep you waiting, here are a few pics of the plumbing.
Screen Shot 2017-03-28 at 1.20.17 PM.png
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Screen Shot 2017-03-28 at 1.19.17 PM.png


Screen Shot 2017-03-28 at 1.18.47 PM.png


One of my Spears Gate Valves was threaded, so I had to thread the Red PVC. It wasn't easy but it came out nicely.
Screen Shot 2017-03-28 at 1.18.16 PM.png
 
Can't see it, but you'll know it's not red!!!!

Great work Matt, I swear that sump craftsmanship rivals most professionally made sumps, except the Dreambox, that thing is just in another class by itself (but then again you pay for it!)
 
Very nice!!
A maze, but a well organized and colored maze.
I must admit, my white pipes with random purple splotches from the primer just do not compare.

Now lets see - which threaded joint is hardest to get to... probably the back one on the left.
Yep, that will be the one to drip.
:)
 
Finished up the plumbing for the return (painted black to match Lok-Line). Installed a union to make for easy access to the drains if needed. It has been a real hope. Love the union there, it can be seen easier in the next photo.
Screen Shot 2017-04-04 at 4.05.10 PM.png


Added 45 elbows to the emergency standpipe, to provide more room to run the return to both ends of the overflow box.
Screen Shot 2017-04-04 at 4.05.52 PM.png


Screen Shot 2017-04-04 at 4.06.35 PM.png


I made a lid for the overflow, doubles as a nice shelf while working on the tank or acclimating a coral.
Screen Shot 2017-04-04 at 4.09.11 PM.png


Bottom of lid, center channel allows the lid to nest in around the return pipe that runs across the top of the overflow.
Screen Shot 2017-04-04 at 4.09.21 PM.png


Note you do not see a lot of plumbing when you look at the tank and stand straight on. The majority of the plumbing is routed as high up in the stand as possible to allow for maximum access to filter socks and to get equipment like skimmers and reactors in and out with ease.
Screen Shot 2017-04-04 at 4.08.08 PM.png
 

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