dnadrifter
Guest
I do the same. I am very much a beginner, and am still learning but I would add the following that I have learned:If you have a DSLR, you should be able to shoot in raw format, which makes it super easy to reset your white balance afterwards if you have access to decent editing software, like @RandyC mentions above. The raw format has much better color depth than jpeg, and white balance correction can make a huge difference without filters that eat light and add another pane of glass between the sensor and the image.
How I take pics with my DLSR (nikon d750):
- Turn off water flow
- Use a tripod with remote shutter release (or timer) for longer exposures; don't let the exposure compensation set the iso too high
- Keep the lens as parallel to the aquarium glass as possible
- Shoot in raw format
- White balance correct afterwards
- Turn down blue and violet light as much as you can without significantly affecting the color of the corals. The sensor doesn't need PAR and the extra blue light just further blows the blues out more than they are already
- if you can set your white balance manually set it as high as you can, usually 10,000K. I use RAW and haven't done an experiment to see if it matters, but I figure it can't hurt. If you aren't using RAW, it should definitely help. If you can't set it manually, choose cloudy settings.
- What really helped immensely with image quality and focus was focusing manually on a 10X magnified image on the LCD screen. You can precisely choose where you are focusing and what the focus is. You are also able to better control and increase usable depth of field by trying to focus about 1/3 from the front of the coral that is being imaged.