Cali Kid Corals

Quarantine tank setup?

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WCKDVPR

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Hi All,

Noobie here. Almost ready to put water in the DT. Doing a two tank quarantine setup so I have something to put in the DT when it is cycled. I have two 10g tanks (thanks roostertech), two heaters, multiple air stones/line and an air pump. I plan to follow TTM with tank swaps every 72 hours for 12 days, then keep the fish in one of the QT tanks and observe.

Do I need some type of filtration (HOB or sponge filter) and/or powerheads or just the air stone - I have seen recommendations for and against a filter or powerhead (just the air stone). I was looking at this information on TTM http://www.tanktransfermethod.com/node/1 and it says no filter - just water changes.

What do you recommend?

Also, what to do with corals and anemones? Lots of different thoughts here to be found in the forums.

Thanks!
 
I commend you for trying to do things "right" from the beginning. For TTM, no filtration needed. Anything you include in TTM needs to be cleaned/completely dry until it can be used again so it is easier to keep it a minimal setup. Also filtration is not needed because by definition transfers need to happen at least every 72 hours, not enough time usually to build up dangerous ammonia levels. But I do recommend keeping some Seachem Prime handy just in case.

A QT tank however can have a HOB filter however it is not required. Water changes would be fine, but some filtration would make your life easier. I have a HOB on mine.

If you want to be strict regarding corals, inverts etc, everything should be quarantined in a fish free environment for 72 days to protect from ich and other parasites. However I think very few people do this. For corals, most utilize dips and inspection, and maybe a short QT for observation purposes and possibly repeat dip.


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I agree. I use simple 10g tanks with air stone for TTM (and heater only in the winter). Little to wash and sterilize that way. I do use Prime just to be safe. I've had great success using this method with fish.

I QT corals as well in a dedicated coral tank that has no fish. Ich can encyst on coral skeleton. Probably lower risk since a lot of folks as @Gablami mentioned, don't do this. If it's a coral stick and it is only healthy coral tissue, then ich won't encyst. In that case, I dip a few times and let it sit in my coral tank for a few days and then move it to my DT. I am one of those pretty anal types because I have been burned by Ich years ago in my 300g even though I used to quarantine (obviously not good enough). I had to tear the whole thing apart to catch all the fish and then let the DT lay fallow for 3mos....painful. I won't go through that again.

I know I'm in the minority here.
 
Thanks!

Do you use the Seachem Prime in the ratio recommended with each water change in the QT tank, and then just as required for maintenance after the first 12 days?

Would a third similar "coral only" tank set up the same way be acceptable for corals? Dip in ReVive a few times and let sit for observation with just a heater and air stone?

If I am looking at a long wait with the fish in QT, can I get some fish going about the same time I start cycling the DT (using Dr. Tim's one and only to get the DT going)? Thinking of getting a pair of clowns and a (hopefully) host anemone as they are family favorites and we are trying to start out with more passive/forgiving fish and Newjack very kindly offered me some RBTA captive splits when I have water in the tank.

Best regards,
Mike
 
WCKDVPR said:
Thanks!

Do you use the Seachem Prime in the ratio recommended with each water change in the QT tank, and then just as required for maintenance after the first 12 days?

Would a third similar "coral only" tank set up the same way be acceptable for corals? Dip in ReVive a few times and let sit for observation with just a heater and air stone?

If I am looking at a long wait with the fish in QT, can I get some fish going about the same time I start cycling the DT (using Dr. Tim's one and only to get the DT going)? Thinking of getting a pair of clowns and a (hopefully) host anemone as they are family favorites and we are trying to start out with more passive/forgiving fish and Newjack very kindly offered me some RBTA captive splits when I have water in the tank.

Best regards,
Mike
Click to expand...

There is no guarantee the clownfish (which I'm guessing will be percula or occellaris) will accept a rbta as host. It is not a natural host.

Mine did not take to it at all. But the occellaris did accept a LTA (M. doreensis). I got a H. magnifica for them which fhey took to very quickly since it is a natural host.

I have a pair of Lightning Maroon clowns in the 3-4 BTAs in the 40b


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Thanks Vincent et al,

Leaning towards percula clowns. From what I can find, the natural hosts, H. crispa, H. magnifica, S. gigantea, and the H. mertensii are all listed as aggressive, expert-only, and grow quite large. Thoughts on a best-try host anemone for a pair of perculas that a noobie could deal with (seeing other than the BTAs, most anemones seem to be listed as difficult/expert)?

3/4 of the way there on aquascaping, so water is going in the DT by this weekend. Getting excited.

Best regards,
Mike
 
H. crispa are not natural hosts (some debate, not observed in the wild). But they seem to have a higher acceptance rate.

Crispas and LTA (M. doreensis) are easier to keep. LTAs also seem to have a high acceptance. My percula and occellaris did. It take to my bta but accepted both crispa and LTA.

Crispas are rock dwelling vs LTA is sand. They will climb if there is in sufficient light but prefer sand.

Also be aware that all anemones will walk or detach if they don't like the conditions.


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Thanks. So much for the internet..............

What I can find it says the H. crispas and M. doreensis need a deep sand bed, is this true ( I see images of H. crispas on the web in bare bottom tanks)? I am only planning on having a 1 - 1 1/2" deep sand bed. Also, everything I read says you need a well established tank (roughly 1 year old) before attempting to put an anemone in it, so maybe I am getting way ahead of myself.

Ahhh - what to start out with......................besides rocks and sand.
 
H. crispa gets confused with H. malu a lot. Both are often called sebae in the trade. Malu is sand while crispa are not. At least I think that's the way. Might be the other way.

My M. doreensis is in 1" of sand. It grew from 2-3" wide to almost a ft now. In an IM16 no less.

You can add the nem later.

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I don't mind driving at all - a small price to pay for getting "good" fish I hope to have for a very long time. Here is where I am at:
  • The tank is getting water this weekend
  • I am using Dr. Tim's One and Only
  • The skimmer will just be starting up this weekend
  • Everything needs to cycle
  • I plan on doing TTM with the fish (QT tanks will get water when needed)
When should I realistically think about getting fish started in QT and are a pair of clowns a good place to start with a new tank? And thoughts on when I should get an anemone for them, given I see a lot of wait a year for an anemone out on the web?

Thanks, sorry for all the "basic" questions. I would just hate to kill any livestock based on my own stupidity.

A search for dnak on this site comes up empty - does anyone have contact info for him?
 
I don't get the whole wait for a year thing. Never have. It's more about your ability to maintain stability. Your tank water will never be more pristine than after you fully cycle a tank. I think the whole wait <enter time frame> is more about your time commitment and willingness to find proven/data backed solutions when problems do arise If you don't already know the answer from experience.

If it was me and I really wanted an anemone, do the research about its ideal living conditions, make sure that fits your tank and roll with it. I would venture to guess anyone telling you not to put an anemone in yet would be hard pressed to give you a data backed answer on why it's a bad idea.

You may encounter mistakes (mine was having an under nourished tank), but most things are fixable and can be chalked up as a learning mistake (though some are more painful than others).
 
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