sfsuphysics
Supporting Member
That's a whole mess o' light there.
Randy's Red Sea Reefer 250
- Thread starter RandyC
- Start date
RandyC
Supporting Member
RandyC
Supporting Member
A little DIY action post today. I’ve been sick of the noise that I’ve had from my Geo 612 calcium reactor (Pre-2019 version) for a long while now, but finally got around to doing something about it. My Geo reactors would always end up collecting air/co2 gas which made a crazy amount of noise once the Sicce pump recirculated it. I measured it with my phone and the reactor added 7-8 decibels to ambient noise level. I’ve tried everything that didn’t include physical modifications to the actual reactor. Changed from pulling to pushing tank water, took apart the whole reactor and used liquid Teflon tape and silicon grease everywhere; no matter what I did, air always ended up driving up the noise of the reactor.
Here’s a picture of the pre-2019 unmodified unit (pic from google)
The problem was that air didn’t get much of a chance to get released from the reactor before it was recirculated in the pump. Although the outlet was in the top of the manifold, the outlet was exiting horizontally and in the middle of the manifold. The newer models (sometime in mid-2019) changed the input and output to be at the top of the lid.
2019 Model with input/output on lid
So what I did with the lid was lower the input of the recirculating inlet so the air could collect above that inlet and added an output of the effluent above that point in the lid so the air would definitely exit before recirculating.
To lower the input of the recirculating pump, I used a flexible extension tube that came with the Innovative Marine spin stream return nozzle. It was almost perfect to fit snuggly, but nothing Teflon tape couldn’t fix. I used this solely because I had it sitting around. I’ve seen some 3D printed ones, but this works just fine.
I then used a tap drill bit to add a 1/4” NPT threaded hole to fit a 1/4” John Guest push connect elbow. I used RectorSeal Pipe Thread Sealant to ensure elbow didn’t leak.
You can see the inlet in the middle is lower than the John Guest elbow (the small hole), the effluent output, so air should now exit the main reactor to the secondary reactor chamber without any air being sucked into the recirculating pump.
One of the 1/4” push connects on the manifold now needed to be plugged up and John Guest makes these great stem plugs that give a nice clean look. You can see a whole plug sitting on top of the lid.
And here’s another shot of the new elbow in the lid.
So far so good. Quiet as can be and visually looking at it, the reactor doesn’t look like it’s collecting any air at all. No leaks so far either. Hoping this is a solid fix.
Part List
- 1/4” NPT tap (I actually used a 1/2" step drill bit to drill the 7/16" hole and not the 7/16" drill bit included with this tap to make the initial hole before using the tap. I find it much easier to use and less likely to crack the acrylic versus switching out standard drill bits from smaller to bigger).
- 1/4” NPT thread John Guest Elbow
- 1/4” John Guest plug
- RectorSeal Pipe Thread Sealant
Here’s a picture of the pre-2019 unmodified unit (pic from google)
The problem was that air didn’t get much of a chance to get released from the reactor before it was recirculated in the pump. Although the outlet was in the top of the manifold, the outlet was exiting horizontally and in the middle of the manifold. The newer models (sometime in mid-2019) changed the input and output to be at the top of the lid.
2019 Model with input/output on lid
So what I did with the lid was lower the input of the recirculating inlet so the air could collect above that inlet and added an output of the effluent above that point in the lid so the air would definitely exit before recirculating.
To lower the input of the recirculating pump, I used a flexible extension tube that came with the Innovative Marine spin stream return nozzle. It was almost perfect to fit snuggly, but nothing Teflon tape couldn’t fix. I used this solely because I had it sitting around. I’ve seen some 3D printed ones, but this works just fine.
I then used a tap drill bit to add a 1/4” NPT threaded hole to fit a 1/4” John Guest push connect elbow. I used RectorSeal Pipe Thread Sealant to ensure elbow didn’t leak.
You can see the inlet in the middle is lower than the John Guest elbow (the small hole), the effluent output, so air should now exit the main reactor to the secondary reactor chamber without any air being sucked into the recirculating pump.
One of the 1/4” push connects on the manifold now needed to be plugged up and John Guest makes these great stem plugs that give a nice clean look. You can see a whole plug sitting on top of the lid.
And here’s another shot of the new elbow in the lid.
So far so good. Quiet as can be and visually looking at it, the reactor doesn’t look like it’s collecting any air at all. No leaks so far either. Hoping this is a solid fix.
Part List
- 1/4” NPT tap (I actually used a 1/2" step drill bit to drill the 7/16" hole and not the 7/16" drill bit included with this tap to make the initial hole before using the tap. I find it much easier to use and less likely to crack the acrylic versus switching out standard drill bits from smaller to bigger).
- 1/4” NPT thread John Guest Elbow
- 1/4” John Guest plug
- RectorSeal Pipe Thread Sealant
Last edited:
max_nano
Supporting Member
I love this before and after. It’s interesting how the encrusting grows green but the fresh tips are growing white. I’m guessing the encrusting is much slower than the tip growth so there is more time to color up?This frag looks to be finally growing pretty decent now. Took a while for it to start taking off.
Ultra Corals Peep Show (4/25)
Ultra Corals Peep Show (3/11)
RandyC
Supporting Member
Yeah, I have no clue how an acro decides that vertical growth is better to do today than encrusting, but for this particular acro, that's the case. Usually for me, I see that the opposite is true.
The theory (as I've read somewhere that I can't remember now) is that when skeletal growth exceeds the ability for zooxanthellae to populate the new growth, the new skeletal growth will be white.
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Julius Chen
Guest
Randy, I have the same issue with my used Georeef cal reactor. Was just about to throw in the towel, after two years of trying, until seeing your DIY modification tonight.
How does it work so far? Love to hear your update after you run it for 1 week plus.
The teflon on the flexible extension tube is just to help attach in place, or sealing is needed (and for what)?
Do you need to tilt the reactor now so the air bubbles will gather below the lid right around the new John Guest elbow?
How does it work so far? Love to hear your update after you run it for 1 week plus.
The teflon on the flexible extension tube is just to help attach in place, or sealing is needed (and for what)?
Do you need to tilt the reactor now so the air bubbles will gather below the lid right around the new John Guest elbow?
RandyC
Supporting Member
It's been working pretty well so far. Before I drilled in new output in the lid, I tried just running it with just the extension tube to see how long it took to collect air and in two days, there was already around a 3/16" layer of air at the top. So air collects pretty quick. After running for 2-3 days with the new output in the lid, I still see no air layer at all. I actually have two of the Geo 612 calcium reactors with this modification and both have the same results. I'll update you in a week and let you know if it's the same.
The Telfon tape around the extension tube was mostly just to keep it in place, but you also don't want air to escape through there otherwise you'll get air in the recirculating pump. So I'd recommend a good snug seal of whatever you put in there.
No tilting needed. The extension tube sticks out ~1" below the lid and the John Guest elbow sticks out maybe 1/8". There's no way air could escape through the extension tube before exiting the output elbow.
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Julius Chen
Guest
Randy,
The elbow you used, per the link to amazon, is "NPTF" thread. Your tap however is NPT.
I googled it, and looks there is a slight difference between NPT and NPTF threads (https://www.hoseassemblytips.com/what-is-the-difference-between-npt-and-nptf/)
I am wondering what I should use. I have 1/4 NPT tap, and 1/4 MPT (interchangeable with NPT) connector.
The elbow you used, per the link to amazon, is "NPTF" thread. Your tap however is NPT.
I googled it, and looks there is a slight difference between NPT and NPTF threads (https://www.hoseassemblytips.com/what-is-the-difference-between-npt-and-nptf/)
I am wondering what I should use. I have 1/4 NPT tap, and 1/4 MPT (interchangeable with NPT) connector.
RandyC
Supporting Member
I’m no expert on this so take it with a grain of salt. Hope we have someone in here with more experience with this.
I think in my case, it doesn’t matter much. I’d use pipe threading sealant no matter what.
But technically if you used an NPTF tap vs a NPT tap, you would create a threaded hole that would make a mechanical seal with that NPTF elbow Without the need for a sealant. An NPT tap with NPT threading has some wiggle room and requires a sealant of some sort with either a NPT or NPTF male thread. But as far as I understand, they should screw into each other just keeping in mind the bit about the need for sealant.I’ll let you know if I have any leaks, but thus far it’s been water right.
Flagg37
Guest
NPT stands for National Pipe Taper. The F in NTPF stands for Fuel. They both have the same taper and thread pitch, but when the NPTF is used it creates a seal on its own by crushing the threads as it's tightened. The NPT fittings will need a sealant of some sort. I did the same thing Randy did (on a drain line, not on a CARX), and because only one side is NPTF I used a sealant with it.
The M in MPT simply stands for Male, similarly to how the F in FPT stands for Female. They just designate which way it's going but they are both NPT fittings.
The M in MPT simply stands for Male, similarly to how the F in FPT stands for Female. They just designate which way it's going but they are both NPT fittings.
Coral reefer
Past President
Is that a frag of it I see?
Julius Chen
Guest
Randy,
How is the new mod holding back the bubbles?
Getting ready to copy what you did. When you did 1/2" size hold, was there absolutely plenty of materials left to tap the thread?
I purchased 1/2' step drill (see the one on the right side of the photo in the link below). It has a step of 7/16" right before 1/2". What do you think of drilling and stopping at end of 7/16", before 1/2" starts, and then do the same thing on the end end, so I finish with 7/16" size hole? I can do a small pilot drill through both surface first, so the step drill from both sides will match (probably won't be perfect unless I can hold the drill exactly 90 degrees to the lid).
How is the new mod holding back the bubbles?
Getting ready to copy what you did. When you did 1/2" size hold, was there absolutely plenty of materials left to tap the thread?
I purchased 1/2' step drill (see the one on the right side of the photo in the link below). It has a step of 7/16" right before 1/2". What do you think of drilling and stopping at end of 7/16", before 1/2" starts, and then do the same thing on the end end, so I finish with 7/16" size hole? I can do a small pilot drill through both surface first, so the step drill from both sides will match (probably won't be perfect unless I can hold the drill exactly 90 degrees to the lid).
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RandyC
Supporting Member
Working just fine on both units. No air collecting at all in either of them.
I used a 1/2” step but as well. Didn’t start with a pilot hole. Drilled just before the 1/2” mark from the top and then the bottom. Just go slow and test the hole with the tap and drill more if needed. I only went to about a third to a half the length of the tap. Just tap slowly and test with the elbow and tap more if needed.
I used a 1/2” step but as well. Didn’t start with a pilot hole. Drilled just before the 1/2” mark from the top and then the bottom. Just go slow and test the hole with the tap and drill more if needed. I only went to about a third to a half the length of the tap. Just tap slowly and test with the elbow and tap more if needed.
Julius Chen
Guest
Without a pilot hole that is through both surfaces, how did u ensure the drilling from both sides will meet and align in the middle perfectly?
If the entire length of the hole is not tapped/threaded, how did the male threaded end of your connector go through the hole?
If the entire length of the hole is not tapped/threaded, how did the male threaded end of your connector go through the hole?