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Rygh's 250 gallon - rev.2

Interesting tidbit is how a few of those elements recorded back negative readings. Is there some math equation that's based on the reading of other elements that determine it? Actually that actually would give me a little pause for concern about how the testing works.
 
sfsuphysics said:
Interesting tidbit is how a few of those elements recorded back negative readings. Is there some math equation that's based on the reading of other elements that determine it? Actually that actually would give me a little pause for concern about how the testing works.
Click to expand...
There is a correction factor based on the spectral background.
I guess if you are within the uncertainty/error range of 0, you could get a negative.
They do have a blue legend that says beyond detection limits.
So I am not so worried.
 
There has been a lot of talk about Bubble Tip Anemones and clowns on the forums.
A quick pic of mine.
The clownfish love them. They use to host in colt coral just fine, but I really think they like anemones better.
It split a while back. Each is getting big again, and lower one is showing some signs of splitting.
clwnrbta.jpg
 
Kensington Reefer said:
How old are they and have they spawned yet?
And has the nem always retained its bubble tips?
Click to expand...
Probably 3 years old at least. Maybe 5?
There were basically no bubble tips the first year or so. Now, it almost always has them unless really upset.
Reducing flow a bit in that area helped, but I think they just needed to get used to the tank.
No spawning that I know about. Just the one split.
 
sfsuphysics said:
Interesting tidbit is how a few of those elements recorded back negative readings. Is there some math equation that's based on the reading of other elements that determine it? Actually that actually would give me a little pause for concern about how the testing works.
Click to expand...
I don’t know that I would worry about it. You usually send in a sample of RODI as well...they probably use that as a reference.
 
ARGH!!!
AI-Primes are on sale now at BRS, $25 off, and I recently bought 12 of them.
:mad:

And too long ago for any price matching deals on credit card / etc.
 
That’s always the sound in my mind when I read your username :)

RYGH!!!


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BEFORE
IMG_2036.JPG
AFTER
IMG_2034.JPG
I had another power supply die(not fish related).
But I was looking at all those supplies under the tank, in the dust, and they are all 24V now.
So I decided to throw out the crappy cheap ones that were always toasty warm,
and replace them with a high quality waterproof one!!
Not really a big expense, saves power, much better reliability, and adds safety.
 
rygh said:
BEFORE
View attachment 8311
AFTER
View attachment 8310
I had another power supply die(not fish related).
But I was looking at all those supplies under the tank, in the dust, and they are all 24V now.
So I decided to throw out the crappy cheap ones that were always toasty warm,
and replace them with a high quality waterproof one!!
Not really a big expense, saves power, much better reliability, and adds safety.
Click to expand...
How much and from where?
 
So you cut all the cables just after the various transformers and spliced them all together with the output of this one transformer? Can you show a pic of that part? I suppose that means they are all on/controlled together. Were all devices already the same 24 V DC or did you have to do something to make that work out?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
rygh said:
BEFORE
View attachment 8311
AFTER
View attachment 8310
I had another power supply die(not fish related).
But I was looking at all those supplies under the tank, in the dust, and they are all 24V now.
So I decided to throw out the crappy cheap ones that were always toasty warm,
and replace them with a high quality waterproof one!!
Not really a big expense, saves power, much better reliability, and adds safety.
Click to expand...

Ok now lets see all the splices you've done with your connectors to this thing! :D Or do you just have a common bar you hook them all to?

I remember trying something with a particular power supply "back in the day", found out the neutral wire didn't exist... the manufacturer actually used the metallic shielding (lots of fine wires) as the neutral.... like seriously WTF!
 
JVU said:
So you cut all the cables just after the various transformers and spliced them all together with the output of this one transformer? Can you show a pic of that part? I suppose that means they are all on/controlled together. Were all devices already the same 24 V DC or did you have to do something to make that work out?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...

There is a small 5mm circular power connector between the power supplies and the device.
(Some have different inner diameter)
So I bought some connectors and wired them to the new power supply.
Then just plugged the old device into the new connector.
So original device is untouched. I could go back to old power supply.

All devices were 24V.

Note that I had to get more than one power supply. Lots of devices.

None of the devices are controlled by an Apex, relay, or anything through the main supply. Power supply is always on.
 
rygh said:
There is a small 5mm circular power connector between the power supplies and the device.
(Some have different inner diameter)
So I bought some connectors and wired them to the new power supply.
Then just plugged the old device into the new connector.
So original device is untouched. I could go back to old power supply.

All devices were 24V.

Note that I had to get more than one power supply. Lots of devices.

None of the devices are controlled by an Apex, relay, or anything through the main supply. Power supply is always on.
Click to expand...
Great idea. Would love to get rid of the 17 power bricks. So how do you control the devices?
 
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