Cali Kid Corals

Slip vs threaded plumbing

Threaded can leak, need to use tape on the threads or it absolutely will leak, but you can reuse if you need to take it all apart
Slip wont leak if you properly glue, if you dont properly glue it absolutely will leak... see a pattern :) and you basically need to cut your pipe work if you need to redo anything.

Personally slip is the way to go IMO, only use threaded at places you might need to remove or if its an expensive piece, e.g. a double union with ball valve joint, etc. If its a bulkhead for an overflow those are tough, on onehand gluing to it gives a superior leak free connection, the idea of possibly saving it is usually strong but sometimes you need to just let it go... IMHO, the worst thing to do is think about saving fixtures for the next tank, make your existing tank perfect and glue them joints
 
Threaded will (not can) leak.
Threaded will (not can) crack when you over tighten it to stop above leak.
:mad:

But with slip, you will make a mistake, and spend a ton of time redoing things because it
does not come apart.

My suggestion is to use slip/glue, but then have a few nice schedule 80 unions in spots, so it can come apart.
And use silicone grease (not glue) on the union threads, and only hand tighten.
 
I personally like threaded fittings for the reuseability. The key to them not leaking is to buy the thicker better quality Teflon tape and only apply one layer over the threads with minimal overlap. Not in all cases, but often a pipe or fitting will crack from someone putting on way too much tape which increases the diameter and then tightens the crap out of it. If reusing threaded pipes and fittings make sure to remove all old Teflon tape before applying a new layer. A wire brush from Harbor Freight is great for cleaning the old tape out of the threads.
 
I prefer the liquid Teflon to the tape for threaded pieces, especially if they are larger than 1" diameter. I find no real difference in how well slip vs. threaded works. Pretty much just use whatever parts I have that I can make work.
 
Like Mike mentioned, Teflon is great, just make sure it reads safe for drinking water.
I would use slip mainly and some thread connectors where assembling/de-assembling might come handy.
 
When I did my first plumbing for our 90 gal system, I used threaded joints because I found gluing PVC intimidating. I'm planning to use slip fittings and glue everything for our new, humbler system. I'll let you know how it goes.

I am still using black nylon tubing for most of the runs for drains/returns vs. hard plumbing everything. However, all the hose barbs for that and smaller fittings are slip and will be glued.
 
wpeterson said:
When I did my first plumbing for our 90 gal system, I used threaded joints because I found gluing PVC intimidating. I'm planning to use slip fittings and glue everything for our new, humbler system. I'll let you know how it goes.

I am still using black nylon tubing for most of the runs for drains/returns vs. hard plumbing everything. However, all the hose barbs for that and smaller fittings are slip and will be glued.
Click to expand...

Note that the inside diameter of a barb fitting is a lot smaller than the equivalent pipe.
Keep that in mind when calculating flow and head.
 
rygh said:
Note that the inside diameter of a barb fitting is a lot smaller than the equivalent pipe.
Keep that in mind when calculating flow and head.
Click to expand...

I'm using hose barbs are both sides for drains and for returns, so it should balance itself out. Our main drain is a 1" line running full-siphon, so I doubt I could ever push enough flow to max that out without blowing out the display since it's a 40breeder. I did use a 1" return line, teed to 2x 3/4" returns to try and mitigate head loss and restriction on the return side, since how much water the return can push is going to be our limiting factor.
 
wpeterson said:
I'm using hose barbs are both sides for drains and for returns, so it should balance itself out. Our main drain is a 1" line running full-siphon, so I doubt I could ever push enough flow to max that out without blowing out the display since it's a 40breeder. I did use a 1" return line, teed to 2x 3/4" returns to try and mitigate head loss and restriction on the return side, since how much water the return can push is going to be our limiting factor.
Click to expand...

Nah, you've got a red dragon right? ;)
 
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