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Spectrapure GB part II

Sorry you are having problems Gresham, but it doesn't sound like it was really a problem with the "Group Buy", just a problem with all the components you are trying to use.
 
But it is. Had I taken the time to simply buy it thru them, they would have been able to guide me. As it was, I had t pick off their site, and tell you. Their CS was cut out of the loop so to speak.

They do not recommend using a float valve, but rather a float switch and solanoid. Had I bought the unit straight off them, they would have asked if that was what I was planning on doing, and guided me away from doing that.


The unit I purchased does not have the correct instructions with it, nor do any on thier site trul apply to it. Had I bought it thru them, they would have given me personal instructions over the phone, rather then me trying to piece together three PDFs.
 
Gresham's ticked not at so much the Group Buy in general, but the fact that he went through the Group Buy purchasing a relative unknown which was not being offered through their initial Group Buy listing rather than contacting Spectrapure and purchasing through them directly. ::)

This is my suggestion - my wee two cents. Gresham and Arnold try to work this out via PM and Arnold talk to Spectrapure to figure this stuff out. 8)
 
Arnold doesn't need to get involved, I can bat for myself :D They're working with me on this, but are firm on the restocking fee, so I will keep that unit and buy the right one. It's a live and learn situation.

FWIW< their customer service did try to work with me,quite a bit in fact. They went to the level I expect out of a company. Problem is, I can't call them back right now, and that's how they truly like to resolve problems. I'm just going to buy the other part out right and be done with it.

The instructions wouldn't have stopped my problem, me reading the page fully would have. User error :(
 
So I racked my brain over this all day and I came up with a solution that in which I won't loose anything other then a little headache. Hopefully it works out how I'm planning it. I'm going to set my friend up with a drinking water kit for his, then sell him the Permeate pump I have. Then I will get the electical pump driven Permeate type pump. I do spend double what I thought I'd be spending, but that is the true cost of the item. This time I will put away a 1/2 hour from my day and have their engineer design the system right for me.

When I first emailled them with my problem, I got an email from the tech, and the chief engineer. Thay have tried to work with me as best they can via the net, but like they said, this is best done via the phone where Q/A happens in well, real time

After really going over the situation I can honestly say 99% of the problem was my doing. Sure the diagrams are old, and that note on the item IMO should have been on a different place, but that is super minor. The fact is, I bought the wrong part and I didn't take them up on thier offer of design help over the phone. <
 
I am using the replacement filters on my water general brand unit that I bought from ebay for drinking water. As long as the canister is standard size, you should have no problem.
 
Out of curiosity, what is this "water hammering" issue you mentioned a couple times?

The issue I seem to have with these stupid things is that they sometimes run water over the membrane even if I'm not making any "clean" water, I don't know if it's my specific unit, or if this is a common issue with RO units in general. My solution was simple, have a switch I can turn off when I'm done making water. Problem with this solution is I can't have any automated system for top off with it.
 
You hafve to use a solanoid valve based liquid Level Control system Mike. That will solve that problem, and TDS creep.

Water Hammerring is that noise you hear from pipes to sounds like banging pipes. It's when the wate/air has no place to expand. Like, you flush a toilet, and the RO starts banging. It's typically a problem with float valve based systems, and wash machines. Sometimes you'll see a T inline with the source water for wash machines. ON that tee is what looks like a CO2 cyclinder for a bb gun. This has a small membrane in it that can expand. Some plumbers will simply add an extra length of pipe instead of the water hammer device.

A Single Bang, Knock, Clunk or Clang
Such sounds are usually caused by a phenomenon called 'water hammer.' Water hammer doesn't accompany flowing water, so if your sound occurs while water is running, it isn't water hammer.

Water hammer happens when you turn OFF a water flow suddenly (like a dishwasher, a clothes washer, a toilet or even closing a hand faucet suddenly. Shutting off the flow suddenly sends a pressure or shock wave down the water line through the water shocking the pipes and creating the 'hammer' noise. These shock waves travel faster than the speed of sound and can exert very great instantaneous pressures. Over time, water hammer can damage pipes, valves and eventually weaken pipe joints.

Most modern homes have devices called water hammer arresters ( they're called various things such as air chamber, air cushion, water capacitor, etc.) . They are air filled chambers connected to the plumbing that let the pressure wave dissipate harmlessly into a cushion of air. If your banging has been happening forever you may not have one.

Sometimes these arresters become waterlogged. Try this. Turn off the water to the house at the entry. Find the lowest faucet in your house--often this is an outdoor garden hose faucet--open this faucet and then open a few of the indoor faucets at high locations such as upstairs or at a wet bar and let the low faucet drain for 5 minutes or until it stops dripping, whichever takes longer. Close all the faucets and turn the main back on. Note: When you first start using water again there will be air in the lines and it may spit and sputter with some vigor.
Click to expand...

http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/PipeNoises.htm
 
ahh gotcha, yeah, that extra length of pipe is pretty much standard/no brainer when you're doing plumbing.

So I need a solinoid based liquid level control system... what the hell is that going to run me?
 
hi arnold,

i'm hoping to order a 90 gal RODI maxcap unit and some accessories, so i'm sure i'll hit around $250-300 and sounds like maybe some other people want to order some more stuff too, could we potentially setup a 'part 3' for the spectrapure groupbuy if you have time and see if we can get up to $500?

anyone else need to order anything?
 
I'm planning on buying stuff too.

Yeah, I know I'm participating in every group/power buy now.

It will certainly be a couple hundred dollars as well.
 
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