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Switching from RODI to DI only?

Past President
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Apr 13, 2004
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All switched over. The TDS in is now showing 70, out 0. Well give the line a few days to calm down. I am very happy not to be wasting so much water!
 
G

GreshamH

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Yah I've been thinking of going to a Kold Steril w/ DI myself. I love my RODI in terms of quality but I hate wasting the water. Mine does water the garden, but still.
 
Supporting Member
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Yeah my waste water goes right out to the backyard, right now it serves to water quite a couple bushes and a tree, but on days when I make up 25 gallons, I can't imagine how the ground can absorb all that extra waste water (100+ gallons?) Maybe one of these days I'll setup some elaborate drip irrigation that goes around the whole yard :)
 
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I was making up 150 gallons every two weeks, and I have no idea how much evap the auto top off was making with the two systems. Kold Steril...hmm. Not this month!
 
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http://www.thefilterguys.biz/di_systems.htm

I got the two stage DI.

I took my old RODI and pulled out the RO and plumbed the three canisters into each other, then I plumbed it to the new DI. So, its a five stage DI.

The first three stages use the ultra chloramine filter pack: http://www.thefilterguys.biz/chloramine_filters.htm

So, the whole filter chain is sediment/cgac/carbonblock/DI/DI
 
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So how did you adjust the waste water levels?
 
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GreshamH

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He has no waste water since he has no RO membrane, if that's what your talking about :D
 
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Hmmm....interesting. This sounds like something that could work for me. :)

So do you need to adjust the supply water's inlet then?
 
G

GreshamH

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I'm not sure if Rich is using a regulator or if he's manually doing it with a valve pre or post DI. Most Di type set-ups have a flow regulator in them so they don't flow to fast. If he simply ditched the membrane, the regulator should still be inline.
 
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I dunno Eileen, I tried it initially and I burned through resin like nobody's business, SF water is only 150-250 TDS but still that's quite a bit. Not to mention I went with a separate beds of cation and anion resins so I could recharge them, problem is I couldn't find the friggin stuff people were talking about it, Muratic acid no problem, red devil lye, they don't make it anymore, or at least don't sell it locally (easily), lots of other drain cleaners but I'm no chemist so unsure what would be a suitable substitute.
 
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I was going to try this if the supply end was about 50 TDS or lower.
 
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Sorry Rich for diluting your thread a bit.

I tested the tap last night - well really in this moring 1:00 am (the one that actually supplies the ro/di unit) and the tds meter said 41.

I have seeen it go triple that, but usually it seems to be in the latter part of the year.
 
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GreshamH

Guest
[quote author=sfsuphysics link=topic=2191.msg22022#msg22022 date=1184877354]
I dunno Eileen, I tried it initially and I burned through resin like nobody's business, SF water is only 150-250 TDS but still that's quite a bit. Not to mention I went with a separate beds of cation and anion resins so I could recharge them, problem is I couldn't find the friggin stuff people were talking about it, Muratic acid no problem, red devil lye, they don't make it anymore, or at least don't sell it locally (easily), lots of other drain cleaners but I'm no chemist so unsure what would be a suitable substitute.

[/quote]Lye isn't that hard to find. We just got a bunch recently at Reed. I think we got it from Ace but I will ask Eric later where he got it from.
 
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