UPS(s) ? Anyone use them?

[sfsuphysics]

Yeah how big is your tank too? Because my 180 won't even pull anywhere close to 30 gallons + whatever the sump holds. If you lose power and you're putting 30g on the floor, you need to redesign something. I don't like relying on siphon holes either, because they're easy to underestimate how large of a hole you need, and all you need is some gunk to get in there to close it back up and wammo, useless.

 

[chicken]

Just saw this thread... Not been watching the forums much as the wife is due in March so most reef things are on hold as I have many other things to get ready.

Anyways about my UPS setup. I have 3 APC UPSs that I have been using for years. I have two APC 2200 RM UPSs and a really large APC Matrix 5000 with 3 XL Battery packs. I have one 2200 to run the pair of Tunze on my 220g SPS and another one to run the pair of Tunze on my 600g FOWLR system. Each of these can run the Tunze for atleast 10 hours. I then have the big Matrix 5000 running the Dart return pump on my 220g SPS and the Barracuda return pump on my 600g FOWLR system. In addition it runs the pair of Ranco controllers and circulation pump for my natural gas heater on my 600g tank. With all that running I have about 20 hours of run time on the Matrix. The reason for the pair of UPSs is for redundancy so incase if one of them has a failure for some reason I know I will still maintain circulation in the tank. I know its an overkill but considering the amount I have invested in time and money in both systems its cheap. I even have a generator for the really long outages with enough gas stored here for 48 hours. Luckily I have never had to use it. I do try to start it up twice a year though to make sure its still working.



I picked up all 3 UPSs used on craigslist for pretty cheap. I think the two 2200s were like $200 each and the Matrix was a steal at $600. The Matrix batteries were still in good shape as there were only about 2 years old. That was 3 years ago so I think its about time to change them. The two 2200s needed new batteries though. Luckily the cheapest place to buy new batteries on the Internet is located in San Jose so you can pick them up and not have to pay crazy shipping charges as they are so heavy. Check out http://www.batteryspec.com/ if you need any sort of battery. They are easy to deal with and all their batteries are fresh and have not been sitting around for months or years.

If you have any questions let me know. Been working with UPSs at work for 15+ years. Thanks Chris

 

[iCon]

When at home, you can use a paddle, heat tank water on a camp stove, and other manual things.

In general, yes. In my case I need a system to keep the return pump going, not just for the health of the tank, but if it stops the external overflow will break it's syphon and I'll have 30+ gallons of water on the floor when the power returns. In our area it's a given that we'll lose power at least twice during the beginning of the hot season as everyone uses their AC for the first time. This year it was OK 'cause it only happened once and due to unemployment I was home. As the outages are usually never more than 30 min or so I really don't need anything fancy. Note: the outages have been known to happen at night (we have wind up clocks becuase of this or we'd oversleep).

-Gregory

I'd get a new overflow asap... Relying on one pump to keep 30g OFF your floor isn't a good idea = I used to use an overflow that never broke siphon on me. Tested it over and over in all sorts of simulated power outages, pump blockages, etc. Didn't need an aqua lifter and never broke siphon. If the siphon breaks easily, you're probably already living on the edge even without power outages. In that case - Any change in flow to your overflow has the potential to break the siphon...Snails, fish algae build up, etc.


Thanks for all the replies, everyone! Good ideas and food for thought!

 

[GDawson]

I'm glad Chris answered as there's no way I could remember all the specifics of that system.....

As to my issue:

I sat down yesterday and started a step by step walkthrough of the overflow and its configuration going on the premise that its not designed to fail in case of an outage. As this is a second hand tank there were no instructions for the setup of any of the equipment. After a couple of simulated outages it all became clear. When water stopped going through the overflow the positive pressure on the air bleeder lines reverses and sucks air back into the u-chamber the overflow. To keep the syphon from breaking I need to make the air lines longer. As long as their ends are below the water level in the sump when the power stops the air won't back-syphon ino the u-chamber. By lengthing the air lines and getting a new ATO in place the issue should be resolved!

-Gregory