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Waterbox 80.4 frag build thread

Prince Shah

Prince Shah

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Hi Guys,

After taking a break and moving house I am starting a slow build. Learning from my last build of rushing this time I am going slow. I really want to keep this system for 4+ years.

Here is the tank and equipment so far :

- Waterbox 80.4 with Hydra twenty six (x2) lights (I went with this boz it was avaliable and I wanted to have 4 feet long tank to have some tangs.... shhh tang police.)
- AquaMaxx ConeS Q-2 In-Sump Protein Skimmer
- Nero AI 5 (x2)
- Vectra s2 pump (return pump)
- 40 lbs of LifeRock cave from Carib sea
- two power strip with individual switches
- Santa monica unit (used for alage growth)
- RO/ID 150 GPD 6 stage
- Matrix Pond
- Heater TBD
 
Looking forward to seeing this.
Where did you get the WB Frag 80.4?
I have been looking for a 60 or 80, but the big places are out and they are discontinued.
Good luck!
 
Sump is almost complete. I had a question for BAR expert. Should I move the MarinePure balls from return to Refigum or let it be there.

Plan was to add CariSea Roller and Nyos Reactor in refigum. I use Santa Monica Alage box so I am happy with content refigum.
 

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Prince Shah said:
Sump is almost complete. I had a question for BAR expert. Should I move the MarinePure balls from return to Refigum or let it be there.

Plan was to add CariSea Roller and Nyos Reactor in refigum. I use Santa Monica Alage box so I am happy with content refigum.
Click to expand...
If it was me, I’d put them in the fuge compartment because of slower water movement, but it may not matter since the balls don’t do anaerobic biological filtration. You need the 4” bricks for that. Another thought is that I typically dose everything in the return chamber. The balls may displace enough water so that you may see an increase in precipitation.

I don’t see any major concerns though.
 
Flagg37 said:
If it was me, I’d put them in the fuge compartment because of slower water movement, but it may not matter since the balls don’t do anaerobic biological filtration. You need the 4” bricks for that. Another thought is that I typically dose everything in the return chamber. The balls may displace enough water so that you may see an increase in precipitation.

I don’t see any major concerns though.
Click to expand...
I read that Bricks breaks down over period of time so I went with balls. I was planning to make a box using egg crate and raise a bit so that I can avoid nitrate factory. Other though is to move it into filter sock area. I really want to keep refigum space open for future growth.
 
I’d be surprised if the balls didn’t break down faster and more than the bricks.

I used the large bricks for a couple years but never really saw a noticeable benefit. They crumble a little bit and are one more thing to take up space and maintain so I took them out a few months ago. I never noticed a difference in parameters, stability, water quality, or anything else after taking them out. But I do have plenty of live rock, so they were probably overkill to start with.
 
JVU said:
I’d be surprised if the balls didn’t break down faster and more than the bricks.

I used the large bricks for a couple years but never really saw a noticeable benefit. They crumble a little bit and are one more thing to take up space and maintain so I took them out a few months ago. I never noticed a difference in parameters, stability, water quality, or anything else after taking them out. But I do have plenty of live rock, so they were probably overkill to start with.
Click to expand...
haha too late for me I guess :p. I committed to bioballs may be I will try to move it to fuge section until I have reactor and roller and then decide. May be another tank hahah
 
Both balls/brick disintegrate basically in to sand, so not a big deal.

Bare bottom is generally considered easier because of detritus buildup in sand bed.
But you need to be OK with the look.
 
rygh said:
Both balls/brick disintegrate basically in to sand, so not a big deal.

Bare bottom is generally considered easier because of detritus buildup in sand bed.
But you need to be OK with the look.
Click to expand...
You caught me here... wify said you need to have sand. And i was like bear Bottom. So ordering sand now hahaha. For 55 gallon I was planning to keep it light will 40 lbs be good enough to have 1/4 inch
layer ???
 
A thin layer of sand is certainly easier.
But 1/4" might be a bit too thin. It will move around a bit, and you will probably get holes that show the bottom.
So 1/2 to 3/4 might be better.
But you can always start with 1/4 and add more later.
Worst for detritus seems to be medium thickness (1" to 3")
Deep sand beds are different.
 
rygh said:
A thin layer of sand is certainly easier.
But 1/4" might be a bit too thin. It will move around a bit, and you will probably get holes that show the bottom.
So 1/2 to 3/4 might be better.
But you can always start with 1/4 and add more later.
Worst for detritus seems to be medium thickness (1" to 3")
Deep sand beds are different.
Click to expand...
So whats the rule of thumb for gallons to sand lb to get 1" ?
 
Prince Shah said:
So whats the rule of thumb for gallons to sand lb to get 1" ?
Click to expand...

Caribsea makes great sand and has good guides, see the one on the BRS page (which is also the sand I use):

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Aragonite Special Grade Dry Sand 40lbs

Natural Perfection with CaribSea's Special Grade Reef Sand Ideal for both new setups and additions to existing tanks, this 40lb bag offers a cost-effective alternative to live sand. The dry nature of CaribSea's sand allows for pre-rinsing to remove dust, ensuring a clear view in your aquarium...
www.bulkreefsupply.com www.bulkreefsupply.com

I have approx 1/2 inch thick and it works well. No sand would certainly be easier but I like sand aesthetically.
 
I notice the tank locate in a small area, also watch out for the door when you open it, the door handle will hit the front of the tank.
 
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