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Waterbox problem

nnero66466

Supporting Member
Hi everyone!! I’m back with a question about my water box 35.2 AIO tank. The center chamber between double filter chambers there’s a problem. The water level keeps dropping which in turn shut off tank heater. It is adjustable and I had it on full flow and Kenny approved it. Has prompted me to turn it to low flow. But is this for the tank? It’s a Sicce 0.5 pump. Suggestions on how to keep water level where it should be? Or what the problem might be.
 
Don’t have a waterbox but just from having an AIO tank. I’d look at every path the water takes until it gets to that specific chamber in the back. For me it starts with the overflow grate itself. I brush it off every now and then because a little gunk gets on it slowing the water. Then it’s the filterfloss and sponges I have to clean weekly for obvious reasons they slow the water as they have done there job. Lastly I personally do shake my ceramic/bioballs (separate mesh bags) off in old tank water once a while to make sure they don’t have detritus build up. Also position media so they don’t completely block flow in there mesh bags either.

Hope that kinda helps if anything is similar to your back chambers.
 
I have the 65g AIO. The problem is the filter socks or whatever mechanical filter media get clog, dropping the water level in the center chamber.

I have been fighting this issue for the first year until I figure out the solution. Have an overflow which allow water to bypass the dirty media. See the attached picture. I use regular filter pads for filtration. Socks is just too much maintenance. I throw away the filter pad twice a week, but if I get lazy water will just bypass the filter and everything will still works
 

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I have the 65g AIO. The problem is the filter socks or whatever mechanical filter media get clog, dropping the water level in the center chamber.

I have been fighting this issue for the first year until I figure out the solution. Have an overflow which allow water to bypass the dirty media. See the attached picture. I use regular filter pads for filtration. Socks is just too much maintenance. I throw away the filter pad twice a week, but if I get lazy water will just bypass the filter and everything will still works
So just a regular filter pad. Great idea. And the overflow is new to me. Would you explain setup please
 
Consider taking mechanical filtration out completely and letting the detritus naturally build up in the overflow chamber. Then every 6+ months you can syphon out the gunk if you want to. I don't, lol
 
I run a few different biocube all in ones, different tanks but same basic type of aio rear intank filtration methods.

Can you take actual pictures of what material you are using filter pad, filter floss, filter cartige?

Are you using a media tower of some kind if so what do you have in it and how do you have it placed in the media tower?

(Again pictures of this would he more helpful than you describing it back and forth)

Also heater should be in either the in over flow compartment with constant water level, or possibly return section with ato drip line.

Do you have a ato?

Also are you sure have enough water in the tank?

My first thoughts are that you have some part of the filtration thats restricting flow.

1.) Maybe filter media is to fine and gets clogged to quickly.
2.) Maybe you don’t swap the filter media often enough.
3.) Maybe if you use a media tower you have the different media inside it all laying flat under the filter pads verse suspended upright restricting flow.
4.) Maybe you don’t have ato sensor placed in proper postion ensuring water stays at constant level.
5.) Depending on how old tank is Maybe youe return pump intank is clogged.
6.) Maybe you have crude, corline alage or something blocking the baffle slots between the display and the rear chambers.

Get plenty of pictures and we can help you figure it out.
 
Filter socks outer chambers. Pump center chamber which is very low. Tank is new, set up in may. The chambers between center are empty. So any suggestions are appreciated. But since I’m new to all this some the things suggested I’m having trouble understanding. Filter socks are pretty thick. I change every two to three days.
 

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I’ll draw some pictures to explain my setup later. In the meantime, do you have an ATO - auto top off?

Also, if you remove the filter socks , is the water level in the middle chamber get back to level? If no, then something else in the chamber that is restricting water flow.
 
Filter socks outer chambers. Pump center chamber which is very low. Tank is new, set up in may. The chambers between center are empty. So any suggestions are appreciated. But since I’m new to all this some the things suggested I’m having trouble understanding. Filter socks are pretty thick. I change every two to three days.
Just found out each of the chambers on either side of the filter chamb. has a sponge at the bottom. My son set it up so I didn’t know they were there
 
I’ll draw some pictures to explain my setup later. In the meantime, do you have an ATO - auto top off?

Also, if you remove the filter socks , is the water level in the middle chamber get back to level? If no, then something else in the chamber that is restricting water flow.
Will try it
 
MichaelB pretty much summed most all possibilities!
Take out all filtration socks/pads etc and just observe for a week. The water in the pump chamber will evaporate water daily hence dropping lower. Start adjusting the pump lower flow then work up to get a feel on the flow. If you cant keep the water level from dropping regardless of adding water daily then ur pump may be to big or your return line is loose or clogged maybe sporadic . Remember water evaporates at different rates and always changes depending on ur environment..I switched to mesh socks really helps especially when out of town..
 
I would say most people do not use sponges unless they run an old school trickle sump in saltwater.. They cause issues if you’re not on top of them! Id leave them out!
Slightly unrelated, but why is this? I have a sponge in my HOB reef, and it seems fine so far. If it’s bad I can take it out and replace with a brick or smth
 
Slightly unrelated, but why is this? I have a sponge in my HOB reef, and it seems fine so far. If it’s bad I can take it out and replace with a brick or smth
They have various corseness, and it takes effort to clean or change them, filter pad cut toss them easier. So i think it comes down to people do what easy. By Your tank you I assume put in the effort. More than say your casual reefer.

The size of the holes in the sponges determines how fast they clog, not to mention they can be a hotel for p04 if your not routine with changing/ cleaning them.
 
Also, mechanical filtration just isn't really needed in a reef tank. The fine particles settle in the bottom of the substrate. The rule breaker here might be a bare bottom tank, but detritus would still mostly accumulate in the sump/filter chamber.
 
They have various corseness, and it takes effort to clean or change them, filter pad cut toss them easier. So i think it comes down to people do what easy. By Your tank you I assume put in the effort. More than say your casual reefer.

The size of the holes in the sponges determines how fast they clog, not to mention they can be a hotel for p04 if your not routine with changing/ cleaning them.
Also, mechanical filtration just isn't really needed in a reef tank. The fine particles settle in the bottom of the substrate. The rule breaker here might be a bare bottom tank, but detritus would still mostly accumulate in the sump/filter chamber.

I hardly ever clean my filter, so maybe I should just add more bio media instead.

I used the sponge because it came with the HOB - should I just pile bio balls in there, or is there an Aquaclear bio brick, etc?

Thank you guys for the insights
 
@nnero66466


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Above is a link to a media tower from a company called intank.

It's of the highest quality and i run these things in all my all in ones. The pictures show examples of various medias you can run on different levels. At the most you change those once a month or every other month.

*The only except is the top filter pad which you want to change every 3 days.*

Marineland Bonded Filter Pad, Cut To Fit Any aquarium Filter, Whites & Tans, 312 sq. in. https://a.co/d/gJ5qVu7
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This is effortless, to change just pull it out toss. It comes in a large sheet you cut it to fit in the top section as shown in the image above. [I CUT UP the whole sheet to size so it's not something i have to do each time.]

As far as other filteration media also in the picture there is several options, if this is something you would consider I can give more specific details on those options.

This would replace filter socks, over all cheaper over time as well. After initial investment.

If you don't already have one this is vital.
Below is whats called a ato (auto top off)
For a saltwater aquarium it's one of the most important things needed. It has a smaller container that stores extra rodi water. There is a optical sensor that measures water level in main tankm once it drops Below the sensor the pump adds water from the storage container to the main tank.

It ensures water level and tank salinity always stays at the same level.

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Below is one i bought. Not saying it's better than others, it's a decent mid quality one that I haven’t had any issues with.

MagTool Optical Sensor AUTO TOP Off(ATO) with Upgraded QST Tech and Smart ETFT Algorithm for Both Fresh and Reef Tanks(MT-LITE)
https://a.co/d/3g443om
 
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