Cali Kid Corals

Yuma Troubles

Euphyllia

Euphyllia

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I bought 2 large colonies of some beautiful yumas last month and soon after I got them, one of the colonies started to barf their guts out and come loose. Those were my favorite because they were pink and purple. The other colony was doing fine, but then 3 of the heads had some sort of fleshy mucus that was surrounding them, so I didn't want it to pollute my water so I sucked the mucus stuff out with a turkey baster and now those 3 heads are really tiny and don't open. The other side of the colony opens and seems fine. All my other mushroom corals (I have a lot) seem fine. What could have caused this?

pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
Phosphate: 0
 
Mr. Ugly said:
Something is stressing them out.

If you're coming to the BOD meeting, bring a water sample and we can test it.
Click to expand...

I'm going to be coming to pick up a frag or two so I'll bring a water sample. I don't think my test kits are 100% accurate because they are really cheap. They are all the API ones. :p
 
Euphyllia said:
pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
Click to expand...

FYI these are LARGE swings, either a .4 PH change or a .003 salinity change could do some major damage in your tank.
 
Roc said:
Euphyllia said:
pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
Click to expand...

FYI these are LARGE swings, either a .4 PH change or a .003 salinity change could do some major damage in your tank.
Click to expand...

They only swing when I do a water change and that is normally just .001 for salinity and .1-.2 for pH. It's not like they swing like that day to day. I'm saying that they are normally within those standards and they only swing when I do something like a 20% water change.
 
the salinity swing is the troubling one. THe pH isn't. You can get bit swings over a 24hr period. Do you have an auto top off or do you manually add RO/DI water when the tank evaporates?
 
Gomer said:
the salinity swing is the troubling one. THe pH isn't. You can get bit swings over a 24hr period. Do you have an auto top off or do you manually add RO/DI water when the tank evaporates?
Click to expand...

I manually add RO/DI
 
one of the best things I have invested in, has been an ATO. They both save time, and help keep my salinity very stable. With coral health and stability being related, it was a double win. May want to consider getting one :)
 
Euphyllia said:
Roc said:
Euphyllia said:
pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
Click to expand...

FYI these are LARGE swings, either a .4 PH change or a .003 salinity change could do some major damage in your tank.
Click to expand...

They only swing when I do a water change and that is normally just .001 for salinity and .1-.2 for pH. It's not like they swing like that day to day. I'm saying that they are normally within those standards and they only swing when I do something like a 20% water change.
Click to expand...

you should use water which is almost the exact same salinity as the water in your tank, my salinty never changes from 1.025, mainly cuz I do daily top off that compensates for evap (which removes water and not salt) and weekly 20% water changes, and I mix my water to 1.025. which then matches my tank water
 
Easy DIY auto top off with a

battery powered pump
float switch
random jug
air hose tube.

I'll try to find the thread, or I'll make one because I'm getting ready to make it with these switches Jesse gave me.
 
+100 on the ATO.

How much light are you giving them? I've found that I have to keep my Yuma's in direct shade and target feed and if they want more light, they usually move towards it but usually do not.
 
Roc said:
Euphyllia said:
pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
Click to expand...

FYI these are LARGE swings, either a .4 PH change or a .003 salinity change could do some major damage in your tank.
Click to expand...

For SPS & LPS it is but for mushrooms/polyps/etc it's OK IME/IMO. Major damage is a stretch IMO as well. When I do such swings in my tank my SPS dull out for a very short spell and my LPS close up. No death, no major damage, etc.
 
badbread said:
+100 on the ATO.

How much light are you giving them? I've found that I have to keep my Yuma's in direct shade and target feed and if they want more light, they usually move towards it but usually do not.
Click to expand...

Of the many aquarium components, this is a must. Remember, you get what you pay for - the Tunze is much more sensitive than the float valves, and, IMHO is worth every penny.
I would also add other essential components are some form of doing (Kalk, CA reactor, 2 part, etc.) that is automated.
good flow in the tank
Lights
some skimmer
computer.
 
kvosstra said:
Of the many aquarium components, this is a must. Remember, you get what you pay for - the Tunze is much more sensitive than the float valves, and, IMHO is worth every penny.
I would also add other essential components are some form of doing (Kalk, CA reactor, 2 part, etc.) that is automated.
good flow in the tank
Lights
some skimmer
computer.
Click to expand...

I agree, but we are working with a young person who's tank is built out of birthday money/allowances etc :)
...now, if he could afford it all, by all means :-D
 
True, but it could be used a bit more wisely.

Not too worried about the pH swing. I'd take care of the salinity issue though. An ATO kit from aquahub with an aqualifter costs about $50, which is about the price of a single 'nem. It'll do wonders for stabilizing the salinity at least.

Also, might want to shade the yumas. They require very little light initially.
 
Gomer said:
kvosstra said:
Of the many aquarium components, this is a must. Remember, you get what you pay for - the Tunze is much more sensitive than the float valves, and, IMHO is worth every penny.
I would also add other essential components are some form of doing (Kalk, CA reactor, 2 part, etc.) that is automated.
good flow in the tank
Lights
some skimmer
computer.
Click to expand...

I agree, but we are working with a young person who's tank is built out of birthday money/allowances etc :)
...now, if he could afford it all, by all means :-D
Click to expand...

With the amount of new corals that seems to enter the tank, I think at least some of these are more than possible...its just what priority you put forward.
 
Gravity fed ATO's need nothing more than a sealable reservoir and a feed tube. For small tanks the materials list would be a 2 liter soda bottle, some silicone, and a piece of airline hose. Could cost as much as $7 or $8. For larger tanks a carboy plus vinyl tubing is all you need.
 
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