Kessil

425XL - Version 2

fishy408

Supporting Member
Goals of this build: If possible, and that is a big IF, I would want a mixed reef where the priority is to keep it pest free.

Current Status:
  • Fallow Period starting date Sept 8th ending Thanksgiving.
  • Trochus snails reproducing, probably a few dozen babies and juveniles.
  • Zoas are doing well except for (Pink diamond and Rastas). Torches seems to be growing new heads.
  • Recently tried to frag a torch coral with a Dremel, it worked and both pieces are alive - option if you don't have a bandsaw.
Tank Info: Cycled on July 18, 2021

Equipment
Red Sea Reefer 425 XL
Return Pump: VarioS-6, 2X MP-40, Reef Octopus Protein Skimmer with VarioS-2, Tunze ATO
Lighting: 3X XR15, Kessil H380

Livestock
2X clownfish, 1 x blue eyed cardinal, currently in QT.

Water Changes
1x every 2 months – 20% - using Aqua Forest

Dosing
Red Sea A/B, ESV Magnesium, Brightwell Nitrate/Phosphate.

Corals
Zoas: Pink Diamond, Gatorade, Rasta, Bam-Bam, Green Hawaiians, Circus, CC Glitch, Kin Midas, Orange Rainbow,
Torches: NY Nicks, Hellfire

LPS Dipping Procedure
  • Coral RX -6ml per liter 5 minutes
  • Clean tank water 10min
  • Bayer -40ML/liter 15 minutes
  • Clean Tank water: 10 minutes
  • Iodine dip(lugols) per liter 10 drops:10 minutes
  • Clean tank water: 10 minutes

 
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fishy408

Supporting Member
Replaced all the O-Rings with the Red Sea O-Ring set from Amazon. After replacing them all no more leaks.
 

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fishy408

Supporting Member
Fixed the cabinet, thanks for the advice from the other thread I made. If you are ever in doubt of your cabinet structure, please think twice and try to fix it.

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It’s worth doing it all now before it becomes a problem. Sounds like it’s leak tested and cabinet is ready. When are you gonna fill it with salt?
 

fishy408

Supporting Member
Unfortunately when I was leveling the tank and filled everything with water again, I found another leak. Ordered a new part for $26. Was wondering if there is a fix to this. If i just glue the inside where the black stuff is, it might fix the leak?
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inside_part.jpeg
 
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fishy408

Supporting Member
Your suggestion is for the diaphragm valve? After reading it several times I think I understand. The part that threw my off was, do you leave the barb part there or remove it? If you do remove it how? cause its on there pretty tight.
 
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Your suggestion is for the diaphragm valve? After reading it several times I think I understand. The part that threw my off was, do you leave the barb part there or remove it? If you do remove it how? cause its on there pretty tight.

Remove the barb. It's just a threaded barb with a hefty amount of Teflon tape on it. Also, all drains/returns can use that same part.
 

fishy408

Supporting Member
Feels like mine is glued, its on so tight. Tried to use a vice grip wrench on the barb part with a towel so it doesn't scratch, but no luck. Guess I'll think of another method to remove it. Update - Reading on other forums, it seems like some versions of part #42222 are glued and some are not. The one I have looks a little different, probably because its older but I'm pretty sure it's glued after trying to remove it.
Update #2 - went back in the garage and tried again, it worked.

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fishy408

Supporting Member
Probably my favorite spot in the house for it but unfortunately I have to move it.

Why?

I notice that when I stood next to it, the tank felt kinda "bouncy". When I jumped the tank kinda shook. Even leveled, it seems the support isn't great. The tank is currently on top of my crawl space. After watching a few videos on tank support, I went into the crawl space for a look. The beams were 4ft apart from each other and with a sub floor. Surprised to see the 4ft Gap in between the beams. In many videos that I saw, the beams were a couple of feet apart, the width of insulation. Oh wells, moving it to another spot that has concrete flooring.
 
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