Cali Kid Corals

425XL - Version 2

fishy408

fishy408

Supporting Member
BARcard
Goals of this build: Simple and easy reef tank for enjoyment, pest free!

Current Status: 5/17/22
  • Tank seems to be pest free - haven't added new animals for 6 weeks.
  • All for reef dosing seems to be stable with Alkalinity 8.9, Calcium 479, Magnesium 1365.
  • Phosphate and Nitrate dosing are maintaining levels around .05/2.5 respectively. With stable P03/N04, Chaeto is starting to see growth on a 5 hour cycle.
  • LPS are doing well, SPS not so great but recovering. P03/N04 swings when trying out TM Bacto-Balance.
  • Added Apex for better monitoring of the system.
Tank Info: Cycled on July 18, 2021- Restarted again in December 2021 due to heating issues.

PAR Levels 4/4/2022
PAR_62_Intensity.jpg



Equipment
Red Sea Reefer 425 XL
Return Pump: VarioS-6, 2X MP-40, Reef Octopus Protein Skimmer with VarioS-2, Tunze ATO
Lighting: 3X XR15, Kessil H380

Livestock
2X clownfish, tomini tang, royal gramma, scopas tang, 2x Chrysiptera springeri

Water Changes
1x every 2 months – 20% - using Aqua Forest/ Red Sea Blue Bucket

Dosing
All for Reef 5ML/Day - Testing period.

LPS and SPS Dipping Procedure
  • Coral RX -6ml per liter 5 minutes
  • Bayer -40ML/liter 15 minutes
  • Iodine dip (Lugols) per liter 10 drops:10 minutes
  • Clean tank water: 10 minutes
  • Coral goes to QT for a month, 1x CoralRX weekly dip.
QT Procedure
  • Coral :After Dipping coral goes to QT for a month, CoralRX weekly dip regardless if no pests are found.
  • Fish: Using dipping Method, than into observation for one week or until fishes are eating pellets/ frozen brine shrimp.
QT Setup
  • I have a 20g QT setup with most of the medication/testing kit for members to borrow for emergency use. I only ask that you return it clean and ready for the next person that may need it.
  • List: 20g tank, Hob Filter, Heater, Cupramine, Salifert Copper test, API Ammonia test strips, chlorine tests, API General Cure, Prazipro, Metroplex, Polylab
 

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Fixed the cabinet, thanks for the advice from the other thread I made. If you are ever in doubt of your cabinet structure, please think twice and try to fix it.

fixed_cabinet.png
 
It’s worth doing it all now before it becomes a problem. Sounds like it’s leak tested and cabinet is ready. When are you gonna fill it with salt?
 
Unfortunately when I was leveling the tank and filled everything with water again, I found another leak. Ordered a new part for $26. Was wondering if there is a fix to this. If i just glue the inside where the black stuff is, it might fix the leak?
leak2.jpg
inside_part.jpeg
 
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Your suggestion is for the diaphragm valve? After reading it several times I think I understand. The part that threw my off was, do you leave the barb part there or remove it? If you do remove it how? cause its on there pretty tight.
 
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fishy408 said:
Your suggestion is for the diaphragm valve? After reading it several times I think I understand. The part that threw my off was, do you leave the barb part there or remove it? If you do remove it how? cause its on there pretty tight.
Click to expand...

Remove the barb. It's just a threaded barb with a hefty amount of Teflon tape on it. Also, all drains/returns can use that same part.
 
Feels like mine is glued, its on so tight. Tried to use a vice grip wrench on the barb part with a towel so it doesn't scratch, but no luck. Guess I'll think of another method to remove it. Update - Reading on other forums, it seems like some versions of part #42222 are glued and some are not. The one I have looks a little different, probably because its older but I'm pretty sure it's glued after trying to remove it.
Update #2 - went back in the garage and tried again, it worked.

image_separated.jpeg
 
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Leveling the tank with some shims. The last spot the tank was in the leveling was good. This part of the room seem to be off balance. I do like this spot better because there is no direct sunlight in the morning.

Next Steps: Order some piping parts, aquascape, cure old live rocks, then cycle starts.

leveling.jpeg
 
Probably my favorite spot in the house for it but unfortunately I have to move it.

Why?

I notice that when I stood next to it, the tank felt kinda "bouncy". When I jumped the tank kinda shook. Even leveled, it seems the support isn't great. The tank is currently on top of my crawl space. After watching a few videos on tank support, I went into the crawl space for a look. The beams were 4ft apart from each other and with a sub floor. Surprised to see the 4ft Gap in between the beams. In many videos that I saw, the beams were a couple of feet apart, the width of insulation. Oh wells, moving it to another spot that has concrete flooring.
 
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