Reef nutrition

55+ Gallon Acrylic Tank in Oakland Chinatown

Can you share a full tank shot? Definitely something weird. Don't worry about algae or it looking pretty, everyone's tank sometimes looks off.

Walking through some things... First, your goby dying is hard to place any real meaning to. Mandarins require a very healthy copepod population or they starve to death. Your tank seems big enough in gallons, but it's also a tall tank versus a wide one, so you might have less rock and room for pods than you'd think, and that could just be starvation. Very hard to know without more history.

The cleaner shrimp surviving and inverts surviving is interesting. Shrimp are relatively weak and would die quickly if something like copper or chlorine was in the water. That does make it seem like maybe a disease issue.

The mollies living however imply it's not that. I've never heard of someone doing a chemical QT with mollies for saltwater. The pathogens in freshwater don't translate to saltwater and vice versa. The reason for adding them is if something is in the water they should immediately get it and die. I'm not really sure what would happen if you give them a prazi dose and then transfer them to salt, if it'd undermine that.

On the Molly being a bully, I doubt a molly is going to bully a saltwater fish to death, especially a clown. Unless it's not a molly.

On acclimation, if you're going from HTA to your house and have somewhat similar salinity, a fast acclimation is likely good. If that was the problem, the fish would die very fast. Keep it simple. Float bags. Wait. Open bags. Dump half the water in sink. Add a cup of water. Wait a couple minutes. Repeat. Don't check ph.

On the food mixing, did you leave it in the fridge or out, and how many days? I don't think a day or two sitting in the fridge is going to kill fish, but I don't know. I personally mix up a week of mix and put it in my fridge when leaving town. Though that was with freeze dried.

Do you have pictures of the fish when they died, or around the time before they died? Were they eating?

I'd start with the basics though. Before buying more animals:

1. Stabilize salinity. Get a reliable salinity monitor, at least a refractometer. Get the salt creep issue under control, it's probably a very small leak.
2. Stabilize temp. Hard to understand what you're seeing there, but buy a simple glass thermometer and use it as your reference. Do you have a heater in the tank? Make sure the temp is stable and accurate.
3. Stabilize nutrients going in. You should completely stop phytofeast. Start feeding only what gets eaten and doesn't make it to the bottom. With only a molly in there, it should be a very very very small amount of food. We're talking a couple flakes or pellets a day.
4. Buy a couple testers and post numbers (Phosphate, Nitrate most likely).
5. Do a water change, using water of similar salinity and temperature as your tank. Don't go crazy and do 80%, you'll kill the shrimp, but I'd probably do something larger (30-50% based on your numbers in 4).
6. While water changing, suck up any uneaten food from the bottom of the tank.

If the previous summary is right, you just have fish + inverts, you have effectively a Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) tank right now. Those are relatively easy, and don't need supplements or special additives. Additionally N&P levels aren't that big a deal, but knowing is helpful anyway. So get it stable then
 
Using Brita filtered water as your top off water probably isn't helping, use RODI if you can.
I didn't even catch that. @Mohan Kanungo is the only filtering you're doing to your water is running it through a brita? Are you adding dechlorinator to that or dumping it straight in?

That could be a key issue here, though again I'm surprised the inverts aren't being affected.
 
Can you share a full tank shot? Definitely something weird. Don't worry about algae or it looking pretty, everyone's tank sometimes looks off.

Walking through some things... First, your goby dying is hard to place any real meaning to. Mandarins require a very healthy copepod population or they starve to death. Your tank seems big enough in gallons, but it's also a tall tank versus a wide one, so you might have less rock and room for pods than you'd think, and that could just be starvation. Very hard to know without more history.

The cleaner shrimp surviving and inverts surviving is interesting. Shrimp are relatively weak and would die quickly if something like copper or chlorine was in the water. That does make it seem like maybe a disease issue.

The mollies living however imply it's not that. I've never heard of someone doing a chemical QT with mollies for saltwater. The pathogens in freshwater don't translate to saltwater and vice versa. The reason for adding them is if something is in the water they should immediately get it and die. I'm not really sure what would happen if you give them a prazi dose and then transfer them to salt, if it'd undermine that.

On the Molly being a bully, I doubt a molly is going to bully a saltwater fish to death, especially a clown. Unless it's not a molly.

On acclimation, if you're going from HTA to your house and have somewhat similar salinity, a fast acclimation is likely good. If that was the problem, the fish would die very fast. Keep it simple. Float bags. Wait. Open bags. Dump half the water in sink. Add a cup of water. Wait a couple minutes. Repeat. Don't check ph.

On the food mixing, did you leave it in the fridge or out, and how many days? I don't think a day or two sitting in the fridge is going to kill fish, but I don't know. I personally mix up a week of mix and put it in my fridge when leaving town. Though that was with freeze dried.

Do you have pictures of the fish when they died, or around the time before they died? Were they eating?

I'd start with the basics though. Before buying more animals:

1. Stabilize salinity. Get a reliable salinity monitor, at least a refractometer. Get the salt creep issue under control, it's probably a very small leak.
2. Stabilize temp. Hard to understand what you're seeing there, but buy a simple glass thermometer and use it as your reference. Do you have a heater in the tank? Make sure the temp is stable and accurate.
3. Stabilize nutrients going in. You should completely stop phytofeast. Start feeding only what gets eaten and doesn't make it to the bottom. With only a molly in there, it should be a very very very small amount of food. We're talking a couple flakes or pellets a day.
4. Buy a couple testers and post numbers (Phosphate, Nitrate most likely).
5. Do a water change, using water of similar salinity and temperature as your tank. Don't go crazy and do 80%, you'll kill the shrimp, but I'd probably do something larger (30-50% based on your numbers in 4).
6. While water changing, suck up any uneaten food from the bottom of the tank.

If the previous summary is right, you just have fish + inverts, you have effectively a Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) tank right now. Those are relatively easy, and don't need supplements or special additives. Additionally N&P levels aren't that big a deal, but knowing is helpful anyway. So get it stable then
Can you share a full tank shot? Definitely something weird. Don't worry about algae or it looking pretty, everyone's tank sometimes looks off.

Walking through some things... First, your goby dying is hard to place any real meaning to. Mandarins require a very healthy copepod population or they starve to death. Your tank seems big enough in gallons, but it's also a tall tank versus a wide one, so you might have less rock and room for pods than you'd think, and that could just be starvation. Very hard to know without more history.

The cleaner shrimp surviving and inverts surviving is interesting. Shrimp are relatively weak and would die quickly if something like copper or chlorine was in the water. That does make it seem like maybe a disease issue.

The mollies living however imply it's not that. I've never heard of someone doing a chemical QT with mollies for saltwater. The pathogens in freshwater don't translate to saltwater and vice versa. The reason for adding them is if something is in the water they should immediately get it and die. I'm not really sure what would happen if you give them a prazi dose and then transfer them to salt, if it'd undermine that.

On the Molly being a bully, I doubt a molly is going to bully a saltwater fish to death, especially a clown. Unless it's not a molly.

On acclimation, if you're going from HTA to your house and have somewhat similar salinity, a fast acclimation is likely good. If that was the problem, the fish would die very fast. Keep it simple. Float bags. Wait. Open bags. Dump half the water in sink. Add a cup of water. Wait a couple minutes. Repeat. Don't check ph.

On the food mixing, did you leave it in the fridge or out, and how many days? I don't think a day or two sitting in the fridge is going to kill fish, but I don't know. I personally mix up a week of mix and put it in my fridge when leaving town. Though that was with freeze dried.

Do you have pictures of the fish when they died, or around the time before they died? Were they eating?

I'd start with the basics though. Before buying more animals:

1. Stabilize salinity. Get a reliable salinity monitor, at least a refractometer. Get the salt creep issue under control, it's probably a very small leak.
2. Stabilize temp. Hard to understand what you're seeing there, but buy a simple glass thermometer and use it as your reference. Do you have a heater in the tank? Make sure the temp is stable and accurate.
3. Stabilize nutrients going in. You should completely stop phytofeast. Start feeding only what gets eaten and doesn't make it to the bottom. With only a molly in there, it should be a very very very small amount of food. We're talking a couple flakes or pellets a day.
4. Buy a couple testers and post numbers (Phosphate, Nitrate most likely).
5. Do a water change, using water of similar salinity and temperature as your tank. Don't go crazy and do 80%, you'll kill the shrimp, but I'd probably do something larger (30-50% based on your numbers in 4).
6. While water changing, suck up any uneaten food from the bottom of the tank.

If the previous summary is right, you just have fish + inverts, you have effectively a Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) tank right now. Those are relatively easy, and don't need supplements or special additives. Additionally N&P levels aren't that big a deal, but knowing is helpful anyway. So get it stable then
Thank you for this thoughtful and thorough reply.
I'm going to follow your recc for acclimating, feeling, salinity and the like. I will get reading using my reef master test kit soon.

I took this video of my fully tank. I show my set up including the heater in the overflow, sump and protein skimmer. I have about 8 corals you can see in video too.

Let me know if the link doesn't work for you.


Regarding the food, I always refrigerated it after mixing. This has been in fridge for 3-4 days tops.

As far as the mollies, I also heard after the fact that it is not necessary to treat them with metroplex since they are going from fresh to salt.

I get salt water from Kenny. I change 5 gallons of it once a week. I use RO water if I have run out of and need to make my own saltwater before I have a chance to drop by HTA during the weekend. Use Brita only to top off a couple times a week in the sump when water level is low. Will keep it in mind that may not be helping.

Fish weren't eating the couple days before they passed. I just have a couple poor shots of the cleaner eating the goby and the new clown. They were whitish but assume that's mostly from them decomposing.
 

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I didn't even catch that. @Mohan Kanungo is the only filtering you're doing to your water is running it through a brita? Are you adding dechlorinator to that or dumping it straight in?

That could be a key issue here, though again I'm surprised the inverts aren't being affected.
Brita I only use a cup or two at a time a few times a week to tip off the sump when the water is below the line. I use salt water from Kenny at HTA for weekly water changes. Mix my own with RO when I run out and can't get to HTA until the weekend.
 
Brita I only use a cup or two at a time a few times a week to tip off the sump when the water is below the line. I use salt water from Kenny at HTA for weekly water changes. Mix my own with RO when I run out and can't get to HTA until the weekend.
Yeah not good tbh. Without using any sort of chloramine remover it could be damaging the gills of your animals, especially if the capacity of the Brita filter is depleted.

My guess is that a bacterial infection from rotting food may have hit your fish, and started a chain reaction. As each died, it spiked ammonia levels. Fluctuating temperature and oxygen levels may have stressed the other fish into becoming weaker too.

Tall aspect ratio tanks have poor oxygen transfer, and with that semi-sealed lid and weak return pump (those loclines really drop flow rate), you might run into issues with that during bacterial blooms etc.

Steps to fix things:

Purchase dechlorinator from Kenny (Prime) and use that for ANY non-RO water being added to the tank. Check the water's specific gravity before you do a water change (to prevent a full RO water change by accident and adjust as needed to 35 PPT). Borrow the clubs CO2 meter and the calibration thermometer to check your house and temp control systems for accuracy/bad air flow. Find a used power head from a local member to increase tank flow. Top off with salt water until your salinity hits your target as well. Hold off on feeding anything really except flake or pellet foods since you only have one fish now (maybe 3 pellets a day).
 
You should be using RODI for mixing your saltwater ! Topping off with RODI or distilled. RO and britta water still has all the chemicals in it that are harmful to livestock im sure your tds is high! unless you add the drops but still not recommended! Plus could add to major algae issues. Focus on your water quality and larger clean up crew.. Physically scrub rocks to get a jump.
 
Check make sure you have a strainer cap on your durso drain preventing livestock taking tube ride since you’ve found fish in there hard to see from that video..Looks like you got good coraline spots on the tank walls! What lights are you running and how's your coral growth ? Once you’ve gotten on track with water quality feel free to post your perimeters after a couple weeks. If no fish keep feeding the tank a little still for the critters/ bacteria…
 
Yeah not good tbh. Without using any sort of chloramine remover it could be damaging the gills of your animals, especially if the capacity of the Brita filter is depleted.

My guess is that a bacterial infection from rotting food may have hit your fish, and started a chain reaction. As each died, it spiked ammonia levels. Fluctuating temperature and oxygen levels may have stressed the other fish into becoming weaker too.

Tall aspect ratio tanks have poor oxygen transfer, and with that semi-sealed lid and weak return pump (those loclines really drop flow rate), you might run into issues with that during bacterial blooms etc.

Steps to fix things:

Purchase dechlorinator from Kenny (Prime) and use that for ANY non-RO water being added to the tank. Check the water's specific gravity before you do a water change (to prevent a full RO water change by accident and adjust as needed to 35 PPT). Borrow the clubs CO2 meter and the calibration thermometer to check your house and temp control systems for accuracy/bad air flow. Find a used power head from a local member to increase tank flow. Top off with salt water until your salinity hits your target as well. Hold off on feeding anything really except flake or pellet foods since you only have one fish now (maybe 3 pellets a day).
Thank you! I'll get on this.
 
Check make sure you have a strainer cap on your durso drain preventing livestock taking tube ride since you’ve found fish in there hard to see from that video..Looks like you got good coraline spots on the tank walls! What lights are you running and how's your coral growth ? Once you’ve gotten on track with water quality feel free to post your perimeters after a couple weeks. If no fish keep feeding the tank a little still for the critters/ bacteria…
I was just thinking I needed a strainer cap for the durso. It hadn't occurred to me before. I'll be sure to do so.

I'm using a LED light off of Amazon.

It ramps up 6-8am and then ramps down 10pm-Midnight. It runs at 100% blue and 25% white.
 
Yeah not good tbh. Without using any sort of chloramine remover it could be damaging the gills of your animals, especially if the capacity of the Brita filter is depleted.

My guess is that a bacterial infection from rotting food may have hit your fish, and started a chain reaction. As each died, it spiked ammonia levels. Fluctuating temperature and oxygen levels may have stressed the other fish into becoming weaker too.

Tall aspect ratio tanks have poor oxygen transfer, and with that semi-sealed lid and weak return pump (those loclines really drop flow rate), you might run into issues with that during bacterial blooms etc.

Steps to fix things:

Purchase dechlorinator from Kenny (Prime) and use that for ANY non-RO water being added to the tank. Check the water's specific gravity before you do a water change (to prevent a full RO water change by accident and adjust as needed to 35 PPT). Borrow the clubs CO2 meter and the calibration thermometer to check your house and temp control systems for accuracy/bad air flow. Find a used power head from a local member to increase tank flow. Top off with salt water until your salinity hits your target as well. Hold off on feeding anything really except flake or pellet foods since you only have one fish now (maybe 3 pellets a day).
It's helpful to have some sense of what went wrong overall and what did the steps are to fix it. Really appreciate you weighing in.
 
Check make sure you have a strainer cap on your durso drain preventing livestock taking tube ride since you’ve found fish in there hard to see from that video..Looks like you got good coraline spots on the tank walls! What lights are you running and how's your coral growth ? Once you’ve gotten on track with water quality feel free to post your perimeters after a couple weeks. If no fish keep feeding the tank a little still for the critters/ bacteria…
I'll be sure to report back in a few weeks after taking some of these steps!
 
Hi all - I was surprised a couple days ago to see a couple fry from my Molly in my tank. Anyone experienced raising these as babies in salt water? I am going to get an imaginarium aquarium tank and nursury to keep them safe from the overflow.
 

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You could get a critter carrier or acclimation box and keep that in your tank, then just feed them smaller sized food. Saltwater born mollies should be fully adapted.
 
Good Morning

This past weekend's coral swap was my first in-person BAR event as a new member! I went home with almost 10 new specimens, but more importantly had an amazing time meeting several of you in person. Props to the BAR board for organizing such an awesome event! I'm really grateful for Eric, Andy and the generosity of everyone. I hope I can return all of the support I received at some point! I'm glad several folks took some of my old pumps from the freebie table :)

I am posting some pics of some of these new additions. I want to make sure I can keep some of their awesome color and have noticed my existing ones loose some of theirs.

I got a $100 reef nutrition gift card so I plan to purchase some live phyto feast, as well as trigger pods Any other recommendations on how to keep them vibrant? I noticed there's a package that comes with Oyster feast but not sure that helps with color per say.

Also, I have noticed this growth appear again in a different spot in my tank. From some earlier comments, folks thought it may be a sponge and suggested it removing it. It's not near any corals at the moment, so am wondering if anyone can ID it and if it's okay to leave as is or better to take out.

Best,
Mohan

Anyone able to ID this and have a sense of whether it's good or bad to keep?
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Here's a couple of my new corals from the swap!
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