Cali Kid Corals

I need an engineer

Oh you doing the recirculating thing.. sorry I did not do that so I do not know its ins and outs.
I run simply media to skimmer air intake.
I still think reason why you have so kuch higher ph is that youa adding buffer and not simply scrubbing air from co2.
Unless your salt mix is such a high ph which indo hot think is the case, just scrubbing air off some of its co2 will not add this much...

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One way to creat similar but less risky humid environment is to have a cup half filled with water in the middle of the air line between skimmer and reactor. Some sort of a cup that have in and put fitting on top, then fill half of it with water...I have seen this once by a user but cannot find the thread that had the pictures...

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Again, I don’t think that’s the problem.

The the hose that goes from the scrubber to the intake of the Venturi never had any moisture in it.

So I don’t think it’s buffering. And like I said...when I change the media, it’s dry to the touch and not clumping.
 
Rostato said:
Again, I don’t think that’s the problem.

The the hose that goes from the scrubber to the intake of the Venturi never had any moisture in it.

So I don’t think it’s buffering. And like I said...when I change the media, it’s dry to the touch and not clumping.
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Got it. Hope you find a solution.
Please update us with your findings.

Good luck

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I also don’t think it’s impossible to raise the ph above what the salt mix has.

That doesn’t seem logical. PH is determined by the amount of oxygen available to the water.

I have extreme flow in my tank with lots of surface agitation and I dose b ionic which also raises the ph.
 
I would just use Neptune's solenoid and then write code that if ph raises above or goes below the levels you set for the solenoid, then your skimmer shuts off and it sends you an alert. Then you would know when the solenoid got stuck and needs to be cleaned or replaced.

I.E. Solenoid opens at ph<8.4, closes when ph>8.3. Skimmer shuts off if ph<8.6 or >8.1
 
Rostato said:
I also don’t think it’s impossible to raise the ph above what the salt mix has.

That doesn’t seem logical. PH is determined by the amount of oxygen available to the water.

I have extreme flow in my tank with lots of surface agitation and I dose b ionic which also raises the ph.
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I did not say impossible to raise above salt mix.
I said it doesnot make sense to do so by simply scrubbing some co2 on skimmer line.
There are more air exchange happining on the surface and if the air is so saturated with co2, the scrubber on one part of the air exchange engine should not add so much impact.
All what scrubber is doing (if not adding a buffer) is removing some of the co2 from the air before it goes to skimmer and and get mixed with the water..isnot it?
Adding buffers, alk and couple other chemicals for sure can increase the ph...but if no chemicals are added to change the ph, I find it hard to think scrubbing action do so that much...


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ofzakaria said:
I personally do not trust that one cause it have caused me issues in the past where the module lock up and cause the solniod to be in lock state or open state..
I would trust hooking a solniod to its dedicated power source that are also available...
It will be much safer than hooking Neptune solniod to an RODI to tell you the truth..

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Can you elaborate a bit, I've never heard of a module locking up. I currently have one Neptune solenoid set up but have plans to add a few more, why are they not safe?
 
Oakland Evan said:
Can you elaborate a bit, I've never heard of a module locking up. I currently have one Neptune solenoid set up but have plans to add a few more, why are they not safe?
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That was what I experienced and when I did some research at that time it was actually pretty common. At that time it was attributed to some of the flow sensors Neptune has, it was said to cause fmm and atk to lock.
I was in endless loop of resetting, fw update and changing flow sensros.
That was more than a year ago, maybe things changed, but both my atk and fmm absolutely locked on weekly basis for weeks..
Once that happen, whatever connected to the module lock with it.
Iny case I used to have a solniod on my ATO line using the atk and later the fmm.
Ince module lock, flow sensors no longer report flow and solniod no longer switch on or off u till I rest the module or re do the fw update

Again maybe now with the new atk things changed.

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ofzakaria said:
That was what I experienced and when I did some research at that time it was actually pretty common. At that time it was attributed to some of the flow sensors Neptune has, it was said to cause fmm and atk to lock.
I was in endless loop of resetting, fw update and changing flow sensros.
That was more than a year ago, maybe things changed, but both my atk and fmm absolutely locked on weekly basis for weeks..
Once that happen, whatever connected to the module lock with it.
Iny case I used to have a solniod on my ATO line using the atk and later the fmm.
Ince module lock, flow sensors no longer report flow and solniod no longer switch on or off u till I rest the module or re do the fw update

Again maybe now with the new atk things changed.

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Thanks, I don't use any flow meters on my FMM's, just optical eyes, so hopefully I won't run into the same issues. You can also run the solenoid off the EB832. I plan to do this with most of the ones I'm going to set up.
 
Oakland Evan said:
Thanks, I don't use any flow meters on my FMM's, just optical eyes, so hopefully I won't run into the same issues. You can also run the solenoid off the EB832. I plan to do this with most of the ones I'm going to set up.
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Honestly I was never able to substantiate that it was due to flow meter. The CS told me it's your 1" flow meter and offered to change for free. But I ran the modules without any flow meter only for the solniod and it still happned.
The only time that I did not have the issue was when I used 1link module to power on off the solniod not the atk or the fmm..that never locked but I did not use it for long and switched to using s solniod with its dedicated power supply that is connected to my controller...

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Rostato said:
I also don’t think it’s impossible to raise the ph above what the salt mix has.

That doesn’t seem logical. PH is determined by the amount of oxygen available to the water.

I have extreme flow in my tank with lots of surface agitation and I dose b ionic which also raises the ph.
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Btw ph is not determined by ammount of oxygen in the water.

Ph is measure of the acidity of the water. Co2 or more specifically the carbon dioxide have impact on the ph( acidity ) of the water.
So when you use scrubber you are not increasing oxygen, rather you are reducing the the ammount of co2 going in to the water which in turn decrease acitity aka increase ph..
That's why if your ph is low due to high carbon dioxide (co2) in the air, even if you increase your ariation your will not bring ur ph up much, that's where the scrubber come to work...



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Rostato said:
I also don’t think it’s impossible to raise the ph above what the salt mix has.

That doesn’t seem logical. PH is determined by the amount of oxygen available to the water.

I have extreme flow in my tank with lots of surface agitation and I dose b ionic which also raises the ph.
Click to expand...
pH in our reef tanks is mostly determined by CO2 (carbon dioxide) dissolved in the water (makes it acidic), not O2 (oxygen). O2 concentration doesn’t really affect pH.

pH in tank water absolutely can be driven up higher than freshly made saltwater, just by removing more CO2 than would normally be in the water exposed to your room air (by a particularly effective CO2 scrubber for example).

ph 8.4 is good, 8.6 getting too high. I agree with your original intent to take the scrubber offline when the pH goes above 8.4. Other than that I don’t have any great engineering advice though :)
 
JVU said:
pH in our reef tanks is mostly determined by CO2 (carbon dioxide) dissolved in the water (makes it acidic), not O2 (oxygen). O2 concentration doesn’t really affect pH.

pH in tank water absolutely can be driven up higher than freshly made saltwater, just by removing more CO2 than would normally be in the water exposed to your room air (by a particularly effective CO2 scrubber for example).

ph 8.4 is good, 8.6 getting too high. I agree with your original intent to take the scrubber offline when the pH goes above 8.4. Other than that I don’t have any great engineering advice though :)
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Well said on all,

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What I am struggling with,
If the co2 is so high that is dropping the ph by a whole digit, why would scrubbing on the skimmer be enough to negate all the co2 impact?
There is more airiation happining on surface, pumps, overflow that is also adding the co2 content back.
Are we saying the skimmer airation is more than the rest of airation junctions combined?

7.7 up to 8.6 is too wide of a range to attribute to scrubbing on the skimmer inlet alone..no?


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I’m also running a skimmer that is rated for a tank 3 times the size of mine.

Pretty much everything i can do to raise the ph is going on this tank.

My whole goal is to keep it above 8.3 at all times.
 
Rostato said:
I don’t think so, but I’m no scientist.
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Lol hope the thread did not divert too luch from what you were looking for.
If what you needed is to restrict co2 scrubber inlet, simple solniod connected to a conteoller outlet, or to s timer or using Neptun solniod+one of the modules that supply it should be enough to do all the combination of closing and opening the air on the scrubber...

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Rostato said:
I’m also running a skimmer that is rated for a tank 3 times the size of mine.

Pretty much everything i can do to raise the ph is going on this tank.

My whole goal is to keep it above 8.3 at all times.
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I would rather control the air than turning on off the skimmer.
Skimmer is system kidneys I never want it off ha ha.

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