Cali Kid Corals

icecap inside out

northbay-reefer

northbay-reefer

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Want to see what an Icecap looks like from the inside? :D I am determined to fix this thing.

The circuit is not that complicated, the first thing I am going to replace is the fuse connector, it's totally melted due to the heat. and if that doesn't help then I think the culprit is the two large capacitors.

icecap.jpg
 
Elite ... lol. I used my I phone that's why. Just the though of going up stair, get my good camera, take the picture and then use the cable to upload to my computer is enough to stop my lazy a$$ LOL

Xcaret, take a look at the big capacitors, see if the top is bulging. My fuse didn't blow, but the fuse holder melted so I think the fuse is too strong, currently it is rated at 250v 7A, I might try 250v 6A.
 
Than's good to know, mine is a 660 so it should be able to handle more current. But I am using only a 72" actinics plus two 36" t5s so I think it might be wise for me to try the 4A fuse.
 
northbay-reefer said:
Xcaret, take a look at the big capacitors, see if the top is bulging. My fuse didn't blow, but the fuse holder melted so I think the fuse is too strong, currently it is rated at 250v 7A, I might try 250v 6A.
Click to expand...

So much for that perception of IceCap = quality product.

However do you know the start up current of that guy? Not just the running current, because if you go with a smaller fuse you might very well keep blowing it and have to replace it. I'd put my efforts of changing the fuse holder to stand up to the current loads it's put on.
 
Fuse holder melting is not necessarily due to incorrect fuse.
You can have the appropriate fuse and still have the holder melting on you.
When a fuse holder starts getting old, it corrodes. Corrosion leads to resistance and resistance is what causes the heat in the fuse holder.
You could use one of those small circuit breakers and have no heat issue.
 
sfsuphysics said:
northbay-reefer said:
Xcaret, take a look at the big capacitors, see if the top is bulging. My fuse didn't blow, but the fuse holder melted so I think the fuse is too strong, currently it is rated at 250v 7A, I might try 250v 6A.
Click to expand...

So much for that perception of IceCap = quality product.

However do you know the start up current of that guy? Not just the running current, because if you go with a smaller fuse you might very well keep blowing it and have to replace it. I'd put my efforts of changing the fuse holder to stand up to the current loads it's put on.
Click to expand...

The perception was from the top motch supports that they used to provide. I'll measure the current and see but the fuse that they are using is pretty rubust so I don't think I will be able to lower it much. If 7A is enough to protect the circuit then maybe their is no reason for me to go lower.

Gomer, I don't know why it gotten so small, maybe I'll try to reload it again :D
 
xcaret said:
I'm also checking a stubborn 430 that keeps blowing fuses.
Click to expand...

I just checked out the fuse and notice that they are using a "slow blow fuse" so make sure when you replace the fuse you buy the same type. The fuse that came with the icecap has wire wrapped around a white fiber filament.

I just got the new fuse holder and fuse so I'll put it back together tonight and see how it goes.
 
Yes, you definitely need slow-blow.
Almost all electronic supplies, from ballasts to PC supplies to led drivers, have a very large inrush current
to load up the main caps.
In fact, a dirty little secret on the meanwell LED drivers is that it can be 30 amps.
Only the really high end power supplies have inrush limiters.
(Often the same ones that have PFC)

Agree with newhobby, corrosion=>resistance is a much more likely cause of a fuse holder to melt.
Check the ends inside the holder, where they contact the fuse.
Also causes similar problems on non sealed switches, relays, and connectors!

BTW: Normal circuit breakers are slow-blow already.(slow trip / time delay)
So a good replacement.
 
rygh said:
In fact, a dirty little secret on the meanwell LED drivers is that it can be 30 amps.
.
Click to expand...

All the time? Just at start up? Seems like a lot :)
 
Thanks everyone for chiming in, from the look of the circuit board and the components, it looks like most of the problem will tie to the fuse.

I bougth a new fuse holder and couple new fuses (slow blow) and voila the ballast is working again .... total cost $4.01 :D :D
 
GreshamH said:
rygh said:
In fact, a dirty little secret on the meanwell LED drivers is that it can be 30 amps.
.
Click to expand...

All the time? Just at start up? Seems like a lot :)
Click to expand...

Just at start up, with completely discharged caps.
Look at LPC-60 spec, inrush current.
In reality, probably less, and might quickly end up limited by wiring.
But if you use 10 of them for your DIY LED system, at even half that, it is 150 amps.
And yes, I have seen tales of blown relays and tripped breakers on the forums.
 
Yeah, if you are doing DIY LED with meanwells, the key is to stager them when turning on and use separate sockets.
Ice Cap ballasts are actually the worst for inrush current.
Inrush current actually happens for a split of a second, but just enough to mess up with stuff, especially relays.
 
Mr. Ugly said:
Looks like resistance due to bad connection/corrosion based on how hot that spade connector got.
Click to expand...

That is over 10 years of use so that is not bad. It broke one and I sent it to Icecap and they fixed it, this time I want to do it myself because Coralvue overcharge.
 
northbay-reefer said:
xcaret said:
I'm also checking a stubborn 430 that keeps blowing fuses.
Click to expand...

I just checked out the fuse and notice that they are using a "slow blow fuse" so make sure when you replace the fuse you buy the same type. The fuse that came with the icecap has wire wrapped around a white fiber filament.

I just got the new fuse holder and fuse so I'll put it back together tonight and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll do the same on this end. I had an old 660 crap on me once and the cost of fixing it by IC drove me to open it up; replaced a cap that seemed melted(bulge) inside and problem fixed.
I'll use the slow blow fuse
 
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