High Tide Aquatics

IM SR60 - back after a long hiatus

One quick tip... I've had better luck with the mesh ones. I greatly oversize them, allow it to fold a bit and go along the bottom of the sump to increase the volume.

Once I see the set-up, I'm sure I'll have more tips :)
 
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The water flows out of the skimmer out of that little rectangle opening on the right side of the skimmer in the top pic. The bottom of that outlet is about 1.5 inches above the waterline.

The skimmer is currently on the right side of the (14.4 inch) middle chamber in the bottom pic.

I put an air valve to the venturi on the left side of the top pic. If I open up that air valve too much. I do get larger bubbles but the skimmer goes crazy and overflows.

I have a piece of filter sock that funnels the water to the 3.1 inch chamber on the right that dumps into another filter sock that is about water height. It does seem that bubbles do coalesce but I'm still getting a ton of microbubbles.
 
One quick tip... I've had better luck with the mesh ones. I greatly oversize them, allow it to fold a bit and go along the bottom of the sump to increase the volume.

Once I see the set-up, I'm sure I'll have more tips :)
Nice, thanks! I'll have to get some. Any specific micron size?
 
Finally was able to get the microbubble problem fixed. Made a little slide for the outlet water onto a filter sponge then water flows back into the return chamber.
Blue squamosa unfortunately never looked great and has perished.
Some new frags
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Could my PAR be 825 at the top of the tank and 550 at the bottom front?

Lights 24" above the sand.
Orphek Icon channels 1 and 2 at 45%, channels 3-6 at 55%. Two OR3 blues front and back.
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Maybe so, found this on R2R.

Have a couple SPS that are STN'ing and some zoas melting away.
Could also be my Ca=500+ and alk=10.5. I'm going to slowly try to reduce these.


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If par is indeed that high at sand bed levels zoas being lower on the bottom you could be frying them with 500 par. my sps don't get that much with my current lights.
Not many corals could handle that much without bleaching out or dying.

I think mix reef people typically go for 100/150 max at sand level unless your running say all sps, than in that case it would be wonderful numbers.
 
Changed lights from 50% white, 75% blue to 40% channels 1&2, 60% channels 3-6 - 1.5 hour ramp up/down, 9 hours at max, start 0900
OR3 blue plus, 0800-1030 up, 2-4 midday, 1930-2200 down

I'll post up the PAR numbers a little later with the new settings.
 
If par is indeed that high at sand bed levels zoas being lower on the bottom you could be frying them with 500 par. my sps don't get that much with my current lights.
Not many corals could handle that much without bleaching out or dying.

I think mix reef people typically go for 100/150 max at sand level unless your running say all sps, than in that case it would be wonderful numbers.
Thanks for the info!
I should have gotten or borrowed a PAR meter sooner. I think I would have turned the lights way down and acclimated to the light.
 
If par is indeed that high at sand bed levels zoas being lower on the bottom you could be frying them with 500 par. my sps don't get that much with my current lights.
Not many corals could handle that much without bleaching out or dying.

I think mix reef people typically go for 100/150 max at sand level unless your running say all sps, than in that case it would be wonderful numbers.

You’d be surprised how much light corals can handle. A number of people cook acros in 700 par. I’ve had BTAs and torches in 350-400 par. I wouldn’t start a coral there, but coral is more adaptable to light than a lot of people think.

Also, keep in mind that a number of coral get exposed to air and have direct sunlight during low tide sometimes. They get on the upwards of 2000+ par.
 
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